Ender-5 / Ender-5 Plus / Ender-5 Pro 3D Printer

• D

  TMC connection error
  • DaveCuroe  

  12
  0
  Votes
  12
  Posts
  139
  Views

  P

  @admin said in TMC connection error: @admin @Jack42 Please come to the Creality website to download the firmware https://www.creality.com/download
• T

  5-Pro Silent / TMC Con Err / Solved
  • Tkgato  

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  93
  Views

  C

  CAn you please tell me how i can flash my printer using the the sd card that it came with? I insert the sd card into printer but nothing happens. i check "about printer" and it does show any difference. no update. please help
• G

  Ender 5 pro stops feeding filament
  • gnslgr  

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  31
  Views

  A

  I have very strong hate issues with my brandnew (only about 2 weeks old!) Ender 5 Pro printer and the After sales service provided by Creality. And about the poor filament gap design of the standard heatsink with hotend and the just copper nozzle! It worked very well with PLA but my machine now no longer works after I printed in PETG 3 bed supports (1 extra because the second one was not right) after about 20 hours or more! The 2 printed bed supports in PETG are fine but my extruder suddenly no longer was able to push in the filament. So I cleaned the nozzle and did what many users have to do to fix the damn filament clogging problem. And I afterwards had to push manually in VERY hard the new filament until it came out the nozzzle. Sadly I had to cut the PTFE tube already several times before so no longer could use it to print larger objects. But afterwards my printer no longer prints anything good, not even in PLA. So to tell a long story short. I think the standard machine is only fit to print in PLA very long hours but is destroyed now by just using PETG filament. The Creality after sales help sucks and the promise of sending free replacement parts within the first year of warranty is a claim that is not true! If I get my machine fixed again it is because I get rid of the standard gap issue problem heatsink and hotend with the non hardened nozzle. Why I already bought for about 200 euro/dollar an all metal heatsink with decent titanium hotend + hardened nozzle and new PTFE tube and other replacement parts. So that it really works with all special filaments like PETG, carbon and flexible filaments like nylon which it normally does not! And I therefore will never give any good review about these Creality printers or the shop that sold me this bad supported Chinese machine with its useless warranty!! Even the after sales helpline with the email option can't be used by non Chinese buyers because it requires a Chinese phonenumber to submit any message to Creality. And the answers thay provide didn't help at all! My printer is still completely useless just by printing with PETG and now needs at least new pneufits and new PTFE tube just to get it working again until it will fail again on PETG or the clogging! And I had good experiences before after building and calibrating an A8 ANET printer before! So never expected this poor quality of this bad and bad supported Ender 5 Pro printer!
• C

  Ender without using the extruder and the hot plate
  • Carlu3D  

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  15
  Views

  T

  @Carlu3D ok in this case I understand. You are paying a bit for convenience, and the ender 5's are quite tried and true. I was thinking you can go more bare parts, but would require more work. If you want more volume, ender 5 plus is bigger. Moreover, since you are printing clay, 2x Z screws are probably a safer bet for carrying weight. The bed heater always comes installed, but you can leave it, and probably just unplug it. Kris Kersey, Kersey Fabrications on youtube, has a lot of videos for both ender 5's, including pretty in-depth stuff like editing/customizing firmware in case you need to do that.
• J

  Auto home issues
  • joncdrl  

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  5
  Views

  No one has replied

• T

  Ender 5 plus silent board
  • triple-d  

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  11
  Views

  T

  @triple-d UPDATE Soooooo I started thinking that if one connection was wrong maybe so is another one and yes the extruder connection was wrong and now I am back to printing with no problems I feel kinda dumb abut this but I'm gonna leave this up here for other people who get a little lost with new stuff, stay calm go over your steps the problem will reveal itself Although i am printing without issue I still get the error failure when I try to upgrade my firmware
• P

  Ender 5 plus table moves down when it should be moving up.
  • Psychedvike  

  9
  0
  Votes
  9
  Posts
  30
  Views

  B

  @telephasic I image something to do with original imports to the now major manufacturing 'hubs' and patents/royalties or some such reason making JST the first sold locally, in those places that have a tendancy to import, copy then mass produce, making JST the local 'houshold' name? The Thai word for pen is 'pakar' from the first ever pens sold locally, Parker. Just a guess, might be just hard to translate picoblade? Monosyllabic languages tend to have a problem with ,, well,, more than one syllable
• D

  Display Blank
  • davidslacks  

  6
  0
  Votes
  6
  Posts
  11
  Views

  B

  @davidslacks unplug display entirely and see if you can connect and print from PC. Strange the display would affect PC connection, could be interfering with the serial port, shouldn't but the display is damaged so anythings possible. Check it is not damaging the boards. You should still be able to power on and use pronterface /octoprint, to make sure you can still print, without the display attached. Crossing fingers for you here.
• C

  Ender 5 BL issue
  • Colin DT  

  4
  0
  Votes
  4
  Posts
  21
  Views

  B

  HI, make sure your firmware is up to date. With Z offset set to zero your printer should show Z to be at 10 after homing. It moves 10mm away from the bed after homing for safety. Normally with a BLTouch if you move Z to zero (according to the display) the nozzle will now be roughly 2mm away from the bed. After homing your nozzle should be roughly 12 mm away from the bed when measuerd. This value is of no interest except to check your BLTouch and nozzle are mounted and operating correctly. You get the Z offset by removing the Z offset (setting it zero in settings) and first leveling/homing then measure the distances. Use feeler guage or stack of A4 paper (10 sheets ~1mm) to measure the nozzle distance to bed after homing with zero Z offset in your settings; to get a ballpark figure so you know your at least within the correct distance of around 2mm or if you actually are 4mm away (should check your hardware and BLTouch mounting if it really is 4mm) As your crashing the bed I suspect it is around 2 (2 is more usual but spec does allow up to around +/- .75mm deviation ) According to the Creality video, with a Z offset of 0 in your settings your Z height after homing should be 10 (according to the display). So see what you get and let us know this value. See if this video is relevant to your model, video is for Ender 5 plus/pro, maybe the 5 non plus/pro uses a different co-ordinate system? Either way we are looking for the Z=10 after homing with no Z offset and a measure of roughly 2mm between nozzle and bed when you move the nozzle to zero (zero according to the display). Also note in the video the value of 10 after homing is a positive value , and a plus value for Z offset would place the nozzle further away from the bed. Positive values for Z offset should not be crashing the nozzle into the bed. In fact your nozzle should be even further away from the bed than with zero Z offset (unless it is a quirk of the Ender 5 range?). Regardless, measure it to know if your even close when you try doing the math. You should be around the 2 mark for Z offset if the BLTouch is mounted according to specifications from the manufacturer, antclabs.com. After setting the Z offset accordlingly and after homing you should now also see the Z height to be around 12 as in the video. https://youtu.be/zSOVAdKw4ss
• T

  The Ender 5 pro home position
  • Tucats  

  17
  0
  Votes
  17
  Posts
  62
  Views

  

  @telephasic No, it stops in the middle after homing Z. Cura defaults to X0 Y0 when it finishes a print per the end code for the printer but this can be changed by sending the print head to X220 Y220 instead. The X0 Y0 "present print" position is a hold over from the Ender 3 printer which has a moving bed rather than an X axis gantry. The ORIGIN and the HOME positions are two different points. The origin is the near left corner and the Home position will be in the center of the bed. I am not sure now where it homed out of the box it may have been at the upper right corner. New mainboard and firmware changed it to the center.
• M

  BL Touch Error Out of Box
  • MikeTV2000  

  5
  0
  Votes
  5
  Posts
  25
  Views

  B

  @lwsmiser I beg to differ. Although checking connections and ensuring nothing like foam from the box the BLTouch was packaged in etc is jamming it up, should be your first port of call as you correctly state. Flashing red light means failure, and failing to deploy probe is one of them. In my experience the most common cause (dont use pritt stick on your bed, just asking for trouble seriously the probe does stick to pritt stick nicely, unlike just about anything else. It is fairly common for a new BLTouch to need adjusting for reliable operation even after all cables dodgy connections have been elliminated. This is also stated by Antclabs and full instructions for adjustment including initial 0-~.3 mm (note the ~) installation depth are available on their official website antclabs.com The adjustment screw, when re-installed after any maintenance should be set somewhere between 0 and .3mm in depth, then if operation is unreliable adjust clockwise up to 180 degrees, as instructed in the user manual on antclabs website, small-ish amounts maybe only 30 or 40 degrees at a time, up to max 180 degrees will do it. As correctly stated already by @lwsmiser the adjustment is not critical as it does have a fair range of reliable operation. if no improvment is seen in the operation of the power on self test, by 180 degrees, it is not the problem. 100% reliability is easy to acheive and does not require lots of tiny adjustments Removing the screw is required so you can remove the pin for inspection/cleaning or replacement. It is a simple matter and in no way to be thought of as anything other than easy, straight forward and a fairly normal activity due to the amount of filament dust etc the BLTouch is likely to be exposed to. After much use, if reliability becomes a problem, the BLTouch is much more likely to require cleaning or tip replacement than adjustment, but you are going to remove the screw to do those things anyway. Be gentle with the pin and keep greasy fingers off it. Once adjusted it is unlikely to ever need adjusting again but really does not matter due to being so easy to do and the fact most any other remedial action other than cables/connections will require it's removal regardless. On another note, ignore anything you read about it setting the strike point or height or raisng the Z or sensitivity etc. It does nothing of the sort and most certainly is not what it is there for.
• L

  Ender 5 pro not turning on??
  • Lyxen  

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  9
  Views

  P

  @Lyxen About this question, could you send your problem about Ender-5 Pro to the cs@creality.com, our professional team will give you a good solution ASAP. Thanks for your question.
• R

  unable to continue printing after filament replacement; axis off
  • RogueMandalorian  

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  8
  Views

  No one has replied

• S

  5 Plus autolevels then no print
  • slowJEEP  

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  7
  Views

  B

  not sure of the marlin version you are using. you might need to level your bed. if it is more than ~2 mm out it will not print. this is recognized, by starting a print, it will heat up, when it reaches temperature will try to do a G28 to probe the bed. If your existing mesh is more than 2mm off it will abort. Also if it cannot deploy the sensor 'pin' the BL should start flashing red. It should be solid red from when you switch on. only changing to blue when probing and back to red after each succefull probe. Flashing means error and you may need to adjust the BL-touch , level the bed, check connections etc so you have solid red and it probes reliably you will want to do the bed level where you physically adjust the bed (dont know if that applies to your model.) Then the BL auto leveling (this does apply to any BL-Touch) where it probes the entire bed to 'map' it. After that if everything is level max +/- 2mm and with some luck it will print. Do a search for adjusting the BL-screw if it will not deply the tip reliably . It should be easy to get it to 100% relaible without too much fiddling around. You can remove the tip and clean it too in case some filament or soemthing is jamming it up. You have to remove the same screw you also use to adjust for reliable tip deployment, so when you put it back in after cleaning you will adjust it anyway. the official BL-touch website has information about roughly how deep in the screw goes and how much to turn clockwise to make it work reliably, on new ones (before you remove it for cleaning), you should be able to turn it clockwise about 1/8- to no more than 1/4 turn, so just turn it a tiny bit and power on, if the tip deploys reliably twice every time you power on (power on self test) then your good to go. if not try a tiny bit more, but dont gor mor than ~1/4 turn in toal unless you see imporvement and then should not be much more than 1/4 turn in total from the original position. If it gets worse then try tiny bits anti clockwise. but again no more than ~1/4 turn from the original position
• S

  New Ender 5 Plus acts like its printing but nothing comes out
  • smithkellyj  

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  14
  Views

  S

  Well, it was something simple. The leveling of the bed was off. Thank goodness and thanks for the reply
• J

  Heater failure
  • jimdywise  

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  2
  Views

  No one has replied

• D

  Is normal, than second cooler doesn't work?
  • Demaw  

  2
  0
  Votes
  2
  Posts
  2
  Views

  B

  it is the part cooler or blower fan. In your slicer the fan setting controls its speed (cooling options). Also in the menu of the printer if you set the fan to 100% (temperature->fan ?) it should spin, if not then will need to check connections and maybe even replace it. But check cooling options in slicer and test with printers fan setting first. Yes it should normally spin when printing depending on the settings in the slicer. Generally unusual to not be spinning during printing except maybe on first few of layers of print. Normally it is only spinning during printing
• D

  FML...Filament Runout Sensor
  • dec247h  

  1
  0
  Votes
  1
  Posts
  7
  Views

  No one has replied

• J

  Bed Adhesion Issue
  • jgates19966  

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  20
  Views

  G

  I always have problems with the red filaments. I have two different red filaments. For red filaments, I always put on an adhesion skirt around the model. It will take some time for the skirt to print. While printing the skirt, I adjust the Z-axis high until the printout looks OK. If the filament does not stick, I lower the Z-axis or if the printout is too thin I raise the Z-axis. I have a Creality CR-10 Pro V2. If I print from the SD card, after the printing starts, I can go to adjustment and change the Z-axis high with 0.01 mm increment until the skirt prints right. However, if I print from the computer via the USB port from the Cura Slicer, the print adjustment feature will not be available on the printer. I would then first set the printer at Leveling screen where I can adjust the Z-axis at 0.1 mm increment up or down while printing the skirt.
• M

  Ender 5 Plus New Bid Z Offset
  • MikeTV2000  

  3
  0
  Votes
  3
  Posts
  18
  Views

  M

  Fixed. I had to start a print, then press the z offset to get to zero. Then with bed already lowered it then homed without hitting. I could then start the leveling and z offset process over from scratch.