Hi,
I’m Antonio and i have a wish about creality print or need a suggestion.
I give an example what i want.
I’ve a stupid pipe 300 layer high designed with an inner (90 mm) and an outer diameter (120mm)
I use only 1 spool no CFS.
I need to print it from layer 1 to 99 with 6 wall loops, from layer 100 to 199 with 4 wall loops and from 200 to end with 2 wall loops.
As sample look at simplify3D it has processes so you can decide this changes using the layers as interval of actions.
How can I do what i want?
it similar like a CFS system where there are 3 spools same colour and i change rules of printing when I change the spool.
Any suggestion or kind reply is really appreciated.
Thank you
Antonio
For questions like this I use AI (X’s Grok). This is what it suggests:
The easiest and cleanest way to do exactly what you want (different wall loops in specific layer ranges on one model, one spool) is to use OrcaSlicer instead of Creality Print. Creality Print has geometric modifiers (right-click → Add modifier), but they are not true height-range overrides like Simplify3D “processes” and are clunky for this — you’d have to stack multiple cylinder/box modifiers at exact Z positions and hope the wall count overrides cleanly without extra perimeters at the boundaries. It works for infill sometimes, but not reliably for wall loops on a tall pipe.OrcaSlicer (free, open-source, excellent Creality support) has Height Range Modifiers — the direct equivalent of Simplify3D processes. Almost every Creality user on the forum who needs this kind of per-layer control switches to Orca and never goes back.Quick setup in OrcaSlicer (5 minutes)
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Download the latest OrcaSlicer from the official GitHub:
https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases (pick the newest .exe for Windows or .AppImage for Linux, etc.)
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Open it → it already has profiles for almost every Creality printer (K1, Ender-3, CR series, etc.). Select yours or import your Creality Print profile if you want.
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Import your pipe STL.
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Set your normal settings first (layer height, speed, filament, etc.). Slice once so you can see the total height and layer count in the preview.
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Now add the height-range modifiers (this is the magic part):
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In the right panel (Objects list), right-click your pipe → Add Height Range Modifier.
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A new “Height range modifier” appears under your model.
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You can add as many as you need by clicking the + button at the bottom of the Objects list while the first modifier is selected.
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Set the three ranges (use mm, not layer numbers):
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First modifier: Bottom = 0 mm, Top = height of layer 99
(if you use 0.2 mm layers → 99 × 0.2 = 19.8 mm)
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Second: Bottom = height of layer 100, Top = height of layer 199
(e.g. 20 mm – 39.8 mm)
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Third: Bottom = height of layer 200, Top = full model height
(e.g. 40 mm – 60 mm for a 300-layer/0.2 mm print)
Tip: After slicing once, look at the right-side layer slider — it shows exact Z heights and layer numbers. Use those values so the transitions are perfect.
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For each modifier:
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Click the modifier in the Objects list.
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In the settings panel on the right, search for “Wall loops” (or go to the Walls/Strength tab).
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Set it to 6 on the first modifier, 4 on the second, 2 on the third.
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The base process can stay at 2 loops — the modifiers will override only in their Z range.
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Slice → check the preview. You will see the wall count change exactly at the layer ranges you set (outer + inner walls of the pipe will both respect it). Print normally.
Why this is better than anything else
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Exactly like Simplify3D processes, but free and actively developed.
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Works perfectly on pipes/tubes because the modifier is height-only (applies to the whole XY slice in that Z band).
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No G-code editing, no merging files, no risk of seams or failed transitions.
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You can still use all your Creality printer profiles, Klipper macros, etc.
If you really want to stay 100 % inside Creality Print, the geometric-modifier workaround is possible but messy (add three short cylinder modifiers that exactly cover the pipe wall thickness in each Z band and override Wall loops in each). Most people who try it end up switching to Orca anyway.Try Orca — you’ll thank yourself. It’s what 90 % of the advanced Creality users on the forum actually slice with when they need per-layer control like this.
Oh thank you a lot for your kind and quick answer.
I used AI (ChatGPT) before my post but sincerely I prefer answer from users for sharing experience.
Regards
Antonio
1 Like
hi John following your instruction and studying an alignement between simplify3d and Orca I’ve obtained this with the K1 Max. The advantage is that 2 pieces can be merged in one so the printing time is the same but the pieces are the half and the structure is more strong. Orca is really better then creality and can be linked directly to the printer … simplify3D need Repetier Server. Thank you a lot.
