Does anyone have experience printing filled filaments (carbon, glass etc.) with the Ender 5 Max? I’ve heard you are supposed to use steel tips but I can’t find any any Creality’s response was, frankly, unhelpful.
I’m hoping to use the Elegoo High Temperature Carbon Fiber Nylon filament for some structural pieces. It’s expensive but should allow me to make strong pieces.
I assume I will also need to make or buy an enclosure to keep the build space hot enough. I’m working on a design that will incorporate a charcoal filter to reduce the amount of noxious fumes when printing ABS and the like. Any suggestions are welcome!
I only print PLA, but you could upgrade the hotend to the Hi’s with it’s hardened steel unicorn nozzle. I did both of mine and it improved print quality more than I expected. Easy upgrade too - takes like 10 minutes when you have all the parts.
You can replace the brass nozzle for a steel one of you print a lot of abbrasive materials. You can print these materials with brass nozzle until they wear and prints get bad!
I misunderstood your original post and thought you were suggesting that I use a Bambu Labs H1S hot end. There are kits to do this but the change is decidedly non-trivial!
I now realize you are suggesting using the K2 PLus Hot End from Creality (I missed the Unicorn hint in your orignal post). This seems much more doable! I am still something of a 3D printing newbie!
Thank you
Did you print all the parts yourself? Which model did you use? Also did you lose much build volume?
I did some reading and it suggested that I would have to re-wire the heater element and thermister and then re-flash the controller. I’m find with the soldering but a little concerned about re-flashing the controller. Also am I correct in assuming this would void the Creality warranty?
Use the one for the Hi as the wires are the proper length - you will have to do more work to use the K2 and they both have the same unicorn nozzle.
It’s a quick and easy swap - just remove the heat sync with it’s fan from the Ender5Max’s original hotend and put it on the one for the Hi. You do need to add a 10mm copper or brass tube to the heat sync to help support the unicorn nozzle, but that is it. Put it back into the print head and you are ready to go. No parts to print, no change with build volume, etc. No need to reflash anything or rewire anything and no void in warranty. Just re-run all the calibrations after you change it out as the unicorn nozzle is a tiny bit longer than the e5’s was and you will need to rerun input shaping for the weight difference.
I’m working on a video of it so will post a link when I have it done.
