These are all filaments I’ve used before. On my S10 Pro they’d all print really well at 250-255 and the bed at 85…but of course, no enclosure anything like the K2+.
I’ll try and run my 230 tests this weekend, perhaps with a slightly higher bed temp, see how that goes, maybe look at a higher z-offset if that doesn’t work. Hoping that Creality will honour the warranty claim…the scratches on my extruder casing concern me, an d they’re no fault of mine.
Actually step one is to give in and order a filament drier…
sigh I swear Creality are in cahoots with my electricity provider.
Hello GreyArea,
I have a couple of Sunlu driers and they are ok…just ok…not brilliant.
They do their job, sort of. I had to put extra holes in the top and later a small fan to let the hot moist air escape.
About a week and a bit ago I purchased a food dehumidifier (the round type one) and it works much better and cost nearly half the price of 1 Sunlu drier .
I cut out the size of a filament spool (round) in 2 of the drying levels to allow me to put a roll in and it works well.
Being that I am into making sensors and such with wifi, I have monitored it along with the 2 Sunlu’s and is definately doing a better job.
My view on it is because it, like the Sunlu driers has a fan, but it also has vents and the fan is positioned to blow the hot air up through what ever is in there, where as the Sunlu driers simple circulate the hot (moist air).
Someone once posted a question regards my saying hot “moist” air trapped inside the Sunlu drier and I said,"put a spool of filament in it for an hour and then with your face close to where it will open and simply open it; you will FEEL the hot moist air on your face.
I trust this is a long enough rant.
If not, I will supply the circuits and programs I have for my setup and spend an hour or two discussing the ins and outs 
Cheers.
I decided to display brand loyalty/put all my eggs in one basket (delete according to opinion) and order the Creality.
I did once design an Arduino controlled drier…no heating, but it was a fan controlled by a humidity sensor. It read the humidity and if t was higher than 25% it turned the fan on. The fan pulled air through a column containing 100g of desiccant silica gel.
It definitely worked in terms of pulling moisture out of the air (the sensor showed it could pull the humidity down to below 15%). The desiccant gel has a colour change built in…turned from orange to green and showed it lasted about a month inside a 64 litre really useful box which could hold about 8-10 reels of filament.
I always meant to settle the question of whether heat was necessary by doing before and after gravimetric tests on the actual filament to check its water content, but never got around to it.
This is helpful. Conclusion you need some movement of air to dry. Most already know when you hanging your clothes to dry its not only the temperature the wind is also important for the time it needs to dry.
No I haven’t changed the nozzle. Since PLA prints of 10hrs duration are printing fine, I’m as sure as I can be that a nozzle clog is not the cause.
It does, now that I know the device isn’t as clever at “reading” it’s test patterns to provide a well-rounded workable profile. That’s the problem with the K2+; I’ve said before that it looks like a domestic device - an almost “plug ‘n’ play” option for 3D printers. It’s not. I should have heeded my own advice!
Your comment sent me into the materials settings though and has revealed a possible further “problem” parameter.
For the “generic” PETG profile, chamber temperature is set to 35°C; yet in the mouseover tooltip it quite clearly states;
“…for PLA, PETG, TPU, PVA and other low temperature filaments , the actual chamber temperature should not be high to avoid clogs, so 0 (turned off) is highly recommended.”
WTF? If Creality know that it shou9old be turned off, why for generic PETG do they have it set at thirty-bloody-five degrees?
I checked the CR-PETG profile and it too as set at 35°C chamber temp, so at least it’s not an attempt to sabotage other manufacturers…as they say “Never ascribe to malice that which can be adequately explained by incompetence”.
May I keep that statement ? it is quite a good one
Anyway, for what it is worth, I don’t really check what the chamber temperature is when printing PETG. I just don’t turn on the chamber heater and go with it, which is usually room temperature anyway and will generally stay close to that as it is.
It will likely rise a degree or four over the time of the print, but there wont be drafts getting it.
Where as PLA, well the door is open and the lid half off, so it is also at room temperature and open to drafts.
Cheers.
Ahhh Martin_Prent you have woken the “drier” subject I keep trying to be quiet about…but can’t 
I would like to star a thread on the subject with the hope that someone that is involved in that field can give definitive answers about it all.
My belief is that filament will absorb moisture (yeah ! we all know that…move on), I think that the filament will not simply let that moisture free, as with using Silica gel.
If you put a roll of damp filament in a box filled entirely with silica gel and leave it for a day, it will still have the same dampness.
Silica gel will absorb moisture from the air because it is free to move in the air, but it is trapped in filament.
Filament will only release moisture when it is hot enough to do so, 50deg and up. And it will release it into the hot air space of the drier and will stay there unless it can escape.
And on the subject of silica gel that can “yes” absorb moisture from the air, if you have dried your filament and seal it in a vacuum bag, why put in a bag of silica gel ? you have taken the air out of the bag anyway.
How many have bought a roll of filament that comes in a vacuum sealed bag “with a bag of silica gel inside” and found that the filament is damp and gets stringy ???
Now, see what you have awoken Mr Martin_Prent 
Cheers.
cant wait to see the trhead. maybe i show my big 70l filament garbage dryer with 2 chitu heaters and some old pc fans.
Although the chamber temperature maybe ticked the chamber heating will not kick in until it reaches 41 degrees.
If the chamber goes over 35 degrees naturally then the blowers will kick in.
So in effect there is no heating under 40 degrees.
One of my favourites, but not mine - either Oscar Wilde or Mark Twain in all likelihood. I did check once, but I’ve forgotten - so feel free to use, though I sometimes add the caveat that “A big pile of incompetence is a good place to hide a little malice” (the caveat IS mine, but I’m happy for you to use it!
On to drying…
Yes filament absorbs moisture.
But I’m pretty sure* it’s not a one-way system , even in the absence of heat. It will be an equilibrium. The filament won’t simply keep absorbing until it dissolves.
Heating raises the equilibrium in favour of drier filament, but I agree with you that if you take 100 grams of moisture out of the filament, but leave it in the local volume of air, there’s nothing to stop it going BACK in the filament. Also, removing the air means replacing it with new air, which probably has a non-zero moisture content. An acceptable alternative is thus to recycle the air, through a moisture “trap” like silica gel…hence my hygrometer activated drier idea.
My theory is that even at room temperature, it is possible that moisture could leave the filament if the air around it was dry enough. The only way to test this would be gravimetrically - and also keep it within the constraints of reality - so none of this immersing a spool in water for a month beforehand!
I’d suggest (if I had the kit).
Store a spool at 80% rH and 20°C for a month.
Take a sample of the filament and weigh it. Put the sample in an oven at 105°C (it doesn’t mater if it melts)and keep weighing it until the weight stops dropping.
The loss in weight will be water, plus a few (very few, if stored at 80% rH) VOCs.
THEN
Pack the spool in a crate filled with desiccant silica gel with the “I am wet” colour indicator (or use a device similar to the one I designed. Replace any gel that has changed colour, until none changes colour for 24 hours.
Repeat the gravimetric test and you have a measure of how much water the desiccant gel “pulled” out of the filament just by drying the air around it - no heat.
Moisture in filament is currently the 3D printing “bogeyman”; everyone says it’s bad, but no one really understands it in detail. However it’s achieved, it would be nice if we could build a database of the water contents of different filaments - the maximum they can absorb (so yeah that is the “Month in the bath” test) the minimum they can be dried to (is 0% moisture even achievable?) and a recommended “ok to use” range (because even if 0% IS achievable, we should not assume that it is desirable; it’s perfectly possible a small amount of moisture might help with certain properties, in certain filaments).
This is the line to which I’d simply reply “Does it?”
There are no other viable drying methods?
Does filament that has been stored in 95% rH conditions and is measurably wet not lose ANY moisture even if moved to sub 20% rH conditions?
I have to say “I don’t know”…but my theory is if it can absorb moisture at room temperature, it can lose it too.
Update; successful PETG print this morning - nozzle temp reduce to 230°C, chamber to 20°C and bed increased to 80°C for first layer, then back to 70°C for all subsequent layers.
Result; perhaps a bit less smooth than printing at 250, may increase to 235. No/minimal build-up of material on nozzle.
Print smaller and less time than I was trying on Thursday, so will need to do more tests for confirmation. If temperature in the chamber is a factor in particular, then length of print will be also.
This is the unfortunate climate I have where my printers live in the “Cubby” house out the back yard.
There is a room dehumidifier running constantly.
This reading is at 7am this morning.
Both of the driers are turned off but the sensors are running, ~1 to 2 % reading difference is expected.
During the day the humidity may drop to about 65 to 70%
Cheers.
But you’d be a great candidate for my idea. You can’t cycle your air because it’s wet. You’d just be introducing new moisture. You need a sealed unit where the air is forcibly REcycled.
Imagine…three slots. Two outer ones for the reels you want to dry. The central one is a clear acrylic cylinder that holds a kilo (let’s not mess about here) of desiccant silica gel that is orange when dry, green when wet. A 120 mm fan sits at the bottom of the tube, hermetically sealed and directs air upwards through the column (obviously there’s a fine mesh separating fan from silica.
You’d actually be able to see the colour change creep up the column. There’d be a release spout at the bottom to allow you to tap out the green, used silica, which you would replace by adding fresh into the top.
The air in the unit just gets drier and drier (though there could be a “target humidity” if we had an rH sensor, at which point the fan could be turned off).
I feel sure* that at some point the filament will release moisture if in a sufficiently dry environment…at which point the fan licks in again, takes away that moisture and locks it in the desiccant and the whole cycle repeats.
Yes, I’ve given this some thought
*Mark Twain is smiling wryly at my unmerited confidence…!
Hello GreyArea,
Very valid insight and concept of the idea.
It will be something I will have to ponder on for a time as it will take rather some doing if I adapt the Idea to what I already have.
Though, I am thinking a modified version that would accomplish the same result.
I will get back to you for your scrutiny … 
Cheers.
I’m always down for some good honest scrutinisin’!
Is it not scrutinisinism ?
But we digress. So I am glad you waited for my attemptments (yes, we do make new words here).
How about this twist ?
I make a container about 2 inches bigger all around a Sunlu drier (maybe a couple more in height).
Into which goes said drier and there be a cage on top of the exit fan I have on the drier containing Silica gel.
Maybe throw a couple of Silica gel bags down the lower section (a few, not heaps).
The hot air would then pass through the Silica gel and then be drawn by the other existing holes.
And so it repeats. The whole thing being sealed of course (air tight is only a luxury).
Cheers.
Remember, you read it here first folks 
Hello GreyArea,
It is, “once again” a time where I need a good kick up the rrrr’s.
Because as I often do, I over complicated what should be quite a simple fix.
Block up the extra not needed holes and simply throw in a bunch of Silica gel bags (take them out when printing).
Yes, the drier simply moves hot moist air around, but with Silica gel bags in there, they should soak up that moisture the filament is releasing.
And there I was, monitoring the humidity with or without the added holes (and the extracting fan) when I didn’t really need to do anything other than add Silica gel bags.
Please tell me I am wrong, my rrr’s is getting sore.
Cheers.
