On my K2 plus, I checked the bed leve;ing with a dial gusge and it gives amesh of 0.62mm, while measuring within 0.2,.
Why is the auto bed leveling so far off?
Crappy bed leveling with just 4 screws.
You want a decent leveling? Use at lest 9 screws, including the center.
Why fall back to shims under the print bed to compensate for a crappy design?
I am getting really tired of all the problems with this printer.
Too many extruding issues and feeding errors.
New extruder motor, gears, casing, nozzles.
Wished I went for Bambo labs H2C.
Now have a K2 Plus with 4 CFS and a pile of Paracentamol.
Considering to scrap.
K1 Max owner here. I’ve noticed discrepancies in the readings too. Take it from a guy who really knows how to use a dial gauge, and most other measuring devices, with extreme attention to detail.
The tolerance, as laid out with those load sensors and firmware, is 0.3 mm.
I have also rooted the machine, motivated a great deal by KAMP (Klipper Advanced Meshing & Purging),
so that only the area of the bed on which printing occurs, gets probed.
I’ve also taken a hammer to the Printbed Carrier due to excessive warping (I posted that somewhere on here). But lately a new idea came to mind: Epoxy
I needed a better, flatter surface to, not just print, but take measurements on. So I put down a layer of tabletop epoxy, 1 mm thick. Truth is, it’s not 1 mm uniformly but I used the amount correctly measured for the area of the pour.
Magnetism works fine, heat transfer is a bit slower, but I usually preheat the bed for a time. (10 min + 1 min/5°C over 50 at a minimum)
Now after all that, there are still differences between what has been probed and what is reported in the software (I use Orcaslicer) that I can’t do anything about, so far.
Until I hear back from the devs, I try to use the “sweet spot” on the bed where the mesh reports it’s most level area.
Z-Offset offers no solution as the differences are inconsistent. Most times its tries to print the higher areas too high and the lower parts too low - that seems to be the only constant.
I have installed screws with springs and dials to tune it more effectively, with good results. Currently averaging around 0.07 - 0.18 mm depending on the temperature.
One piece of advice is: turn the bed on to the highest temperature it will accept. Keep it there for no less than an hour, then lower it 10° every 20-30 min until you get to your regular printing temp. That will give the aluminum its “max flex” and may result in a more stable dynamic range.
Incidentally, the bed is its flattest at 107°C, your results may vary.
