No, not yet. It’s on my list of things to try out- all the CF-filled filaments have promise for varying reasons (I’ll mostly stick to Nylon and PC for most things for absolute strength of parts, but the PC-PETG is still VERY interesting to see if it improved on stiffness.)
“Bro”, that is a whole printer worth of money 
!!
Keep us informed on how you end up with printing that 9 carat filament.
Cheers.
Sorry, been busy and away.
Yeah, I know it’s actually nearly two times what I paid for my 3v3. I do silly things like that. Mainly because I see potentials, etc.
You buy the printer for < X > obviously. (For me, it was to quickly get back up and running on a 3v2 printer that I torched off the Y stepper on…I really DO use these things pretty aggressively)
But can it do…?
For things like PC-CF, the answer is, “YES!” and it does it stunningly well. Especially if you break down and spend about ~60 on a Durozzle PCD (PolyCrystaline Diamond) nozzle. It’ll do it out of box without the nozzle, to be sure…but it’s such a cheap upgrade anyone can do, Durozzle or Diamondback…it makes sense.
As for the Tullomer? Got fibrous results in the layers like Joel of 3d Printing Nerd has reported. Layers are hell-bent for strong. Layer adhesion? Not so hot with what I tried with. Bed’s just too cold for the suggested print speeds coupled with the at the absolute floor for enclosure temps.
300 deg works right for the extrusion, but 45 deg C for the zipper enclosure with a heater pushing it up to that and a 110 deg bed temp’s just not warm enough. I suppose you can try that and try to anneal the parts.
That being said, attempt #2 will proceed where I hold the temp to about 60 deg C in the enclosure with the right heater and insulation. This will be followed up with other things.
It’s worth note…unless you find the trick I am trying for, you will not be doing this with ANY Creality printers. Too close to the floor…even with the K1 and K2 printers. If you can get the bed up to 120 deg C and maybe the nozzle a bit up past 300 and keep the enclosure to 60 deg C like they say you kind of need to…
We’ll see. I’ll keep everyone in the loop.
If y’all are wondering…was tied up with Client concerns (Engineering Consultant…kind of explains the doing silly stuff, doesn’t it?) and having to design up and then print a PC-CF footrest assembly for my wife’s power wheelchair (Seems the ODM opted to cheat on materials, etc. and made it structurally weak in several places. Perversely, the slightly chonkier stuff in PC-CF actually works better…)
Hello Frank_Earl,
Cheers for the update. I am using a Qidi Q1Pro at present an though it would no doubt meet all the requirements of the filament you are using (PC-CF), I don’t have the need for that strength of print (and at that cost)…
I am interested to know how you fare with it though.
ASA CF is about all I need for anything I print that requires extra strength over the PETG CF I normally print.
Please continue to keep is up to date as I am sure there others that will be thinking about it.
Cheers.
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And as an update…my first 3D printed PC-CF part lasted 10 months in fairly regular usage as a replacement fork for my Wife’s Folding Electric Wheelchair. I print REGULARLY with either the Epoxy or PEI plate with this stuff and Vision Miners’ NPA for bed prep.
Found that I need to do entirely too many mods to print Tullomer (It’s doable, but without someone doing pre-rolled stuff on mods, it’s not worth that…more a fail-back to my old V2 rebuilt out right for printing. It’s that everything is too cold to pull off layer adhesion with only 300 deg for hotend. Cools off too quickly and little to NO layer adhesion as a result.
That being said, I’m now playing with my first go at one of the craziest things you’ll ever print on a v3 CoreXZ. PPA-CF.
Enclosure heated to 40 deg C with a heater unit.
My Ender 3v3…
A textured PEI build plate.
Vision Miners’ NPA.
Siraya Tech Fiberheart PPA-CF.
We’ll see some 9 hours from now whether I can do it or not.
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The resultant part, if I get the good result out of box (I’m betting so- or if not, next go WILL be good) will be literally 2 times stronger than the prior Mk2 Prototype print in terms of material change and what I specified out for the wall loops, infill, etc.
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Well, PPA-CF’s a bit of a bust. Extruder works beautifully. The problem is that somewhere between all the setups and planning and actually printing the stuff, being blindingly stiff snaps between the extruder and the heat break. Haven’t had a chance to figure out why yet- but…
5 attempts.
5 never really got to prints.
5 having to tear the hotend apart to pull the nozzle and burn the plastic loose with a MAPP torch.
There’s a means (because the hotend does extrude in order to get to the stage where we print. There’s likely a way.) I just haven’t figured out the hold your breath right trick here with the stuff.
Moreover, I figured out a means to which you can get a 3v3 Reglar or Plus to have hotend temps of 310 deg C and bed temps of 120 deg C. Without any mods other than Klipper config and setting up what anyone reaching for this stuff will do and Root your printer and load Fluidd and the alternate panel UI onto the device, you can hit higher temps without question. With a single mod that is doable by almost anyone on these printers, you can do it without provisos. (One Meanwell LRS-400 power supply…it’s 50W of headroom shy of being at absolute peak performance…)
More and probably on a new thread later- as I see what all kinds of crazy this little printer is actually capable of.
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