Ender 3 V2 left side of the bed not sticking
I have a new Ender 3 V2
When I print a figure with 2 legs, one leg stops sticking to the bed at some point (after 2cm height) and then the print spoils for sure.
I print at 200Celcius with 60 celcius bed. First layer at 215C - 65C
I am using manual leveling and I try to make the leveling as close as possible.
The nozzle is very close to the bed (nearly touching)
Btw, after the print when I auto-home, I see that the bed level has increased. So how does it get higher ?
Maybe the nozzle is pushing the model down causing it to stop sticking.
is this possible ?
I am also considering to order BL Touch but I am worried that it will not fix my problem.
Try to change filament.
moisture on material.
alright can you try and explain what you mean, then, by this:
still when the nozzle is in the mid of the print bed, it is a little higher than when it is on the corners
A video or a few photos could be helpful, too.
ust to check: you have a dip in the middle of the glass?
Just to check: you have a dip in the middle of the glass?
I still have similar issues when printing the first layer.
Small circles are always a problem when it prints in the middle of the print area.
I saw the warp on the bed and used 4 clips to stabilize it but still have the same issue.
still when the nozzle is in the mid of the print bed, it is a little higher than when it is on the corners.
How can I fix this ?
- increase initial layer height ? (currently 0.3mm)
- increase initial layer bed/nozzle temp ? (currently 65/210)
- maybe slower initial layer print ? (currently it is 25mm/s)
- make the bed level adjustment so that nozzle is closer to the bed ? (or far ?)
which one would help initial layer prints ?
currently when it tries to print a small cirlce, sometimes it never holds to the bed. even while printing.
I see it being pulled of just after the print not on the later layer.
on Cura settings initial layer is set to 20mm/s (print) , 100mm/s (travel)
for other layers it is 50mm/s (print) , 150mm/s (travel)
@bsilverthorn Hi Brett
What is the discord invite code
This post is deleted!
Is the corner being pulled off the bed when it's being laid down, or later in the print? How fast are you printing your initial layer?
@Miguel thanks for your help.
I still have the same issue with same model as seen in my latest photo here:
always the letf front side of the heart is removed by the nozzle.
What I have done so far with suggestions here:
- the X-Gantry was not well adjusted, I leveled it.
- I enabled Z-hop (that was for my initial problem not for the heart model)
- I added Z-offset 0.3
- I checked warp on the bed and I can see that the middle of the bed is lower than the sides, because of 2 clips placed in middle. I don't have additional paper clips now but I will get some and try to remove the warp. But will that help ?
Any other ideas ?
What else might I be missing ?
should I use a higher bed or nozzle temperature ?
currently I use 65/210 for initial layer and 60/200 for rest.
my pla filament is suitable for 60-80 and 200-260
@Miguel Thanks. I will check if I have a warp on the bed as you show.
but I didn't understand how the paper clips solves this issue. can you explain ?
for the z-offset, should I set 0.3 as you do and try again an initial layer ?
@ilkeraktuna I'm using the Tune menu in the printer
Today while taking the pictures to show you the warp it looks it's less warped, not sure if I've done a mistake last time or with the use it got better (yesterday I've done a 11h print).
Cura doesn't really have a native "z-offset setting", as z-offset is usually a printer firmware setting ("M851 Z0.00" in Marlin would set Z-offset to 0, for instance), but there is a plugin that applies a Z offset at the start of the print and tells the printer to make all Z travel moves relative to that offset instead of the home Z position.
@Miguel where is the z-offset setting on Cura ?
I could not find it.
I am mostly downloading STL files from Thingiverse and then slice with Cura.
So should I try adding a z-offset to them ?
I had similar issues with most of the models I tried. So I am forced to use raft which I really want to avoid.
@ilkeraktuna did you downloaded the GCODE file from the net or did you slice it? I'm asking because yesterday I've downloaded the planetary gear GCODE file from Prusa and I had to stop printing after the second layer, it was extruding a lot of material probably the same problem you are having.
Later I've download the STL file from a planetary gear and slice it using Cura with the Ender 3 Plus settings and print it, I only had to change Z offset to +0.30 because the first layer was to thin.
Right now I'm in the middle of a print and I can't take a picture showing the warp bed, but I've used a ruler and put it across the X axis and later across the Y axis and in the middle to the bed I was able to slide a sheet of paper underneath the ruler.
Thanks ;I realized that my X axis was not well adjusted. So I adjusted it watching 2 videos.
Now that problem is gone , but now I have a problem on my first layer.
Please see the image.
inside is a heart shape and the outside is the skirt for that model.
Both have some part of the filament flipped up by the nozzle.
Why does that happen ?
it spoils everything. and in the end I had to use raft which I really want to avoid.
what is the problem this time?
Seems warped bed.Maybe glass will help.BL touch is not your issue i think.
Did you tried same model with raft?
Before homing and leveling your plate did you heat up until 65 degrees?
Why not printing first layer and upper layers at same temprature?
Would love to help here, but I cant seem to really follow the questions and answers.
What is the exact issue you are trying to address?
Also, no one seems to pay to much attention to this forum, I recommended coming to Discord and chatting in numerous help channels there. I have gotten a lot of help there, and posts here can weeks without a response.
moved the Z limite switch to a lower position
well, first I installed the Z limit switch to the lowest position (as it should be). But when there the bed can not be set below the nozzle. Nozzle goes too low. So I installed the z-limit switch a little higher (1-2mm) , I can't lower it.
noticed that the aluminium bed isn't 100% flat, the edges are higher. The pressure from the two glass clips were transferring the aluminium warp to the glass, after adding two paper clips to spread the force the glass is 100% flat
How did you understand the warp ?
And how did you add the paper clips ?
Can you put a photo of it ?