Auto leveling not doing it's job?



  • So, still no working auto bed leveling, did everything everyone said to do, its a bit better, but not working for the quality print i expect it to do.

    Belt Tention: X
    Bed screws: X
    X axis gantry: X
    All bolt and nuts: X
    Eccentric nuts: X
    Z axis lead moving while printing: X, but seems to be insufficient.

    Anyone got more ideas to what to look for?

    128425747_3248596288577768_9045064403437581293_o.jpg



  • @JackRosario I did some further tuning that so far seems ok (fingers crossed).

    I have rechecked my bolts and screws: tightened the bed screw (not really loose) and untightened the eccentric nuts for Z axis and the hotend, prevously I went a little strong because I thought they were loose. I have also rechecked all the screws around the hotend and force sensor.

    I have repeated the leveling with a hot bed (60 C), while previously I did with cold bed (as the manual seems to suggest). The Z-offset setup is still weird, the suggested procedure doesn't work for me, even at 0.50 mm a paper sheet won't fit, however trying a copule single layer prints I found a satisfying value (0.25).

    With this procedure I have now the bed that seems stable since 2 days, unseen before. I already achieved this result but previously it wasn't quite consistent among consecutive prints.



  • @guivo said in Auto leveling not doing it's job?:

    @JackRosario I'm sorry the sarcasm didn't get through, I am sharing your frustration with @Creality, promising a hassle experience with the CR6 while many of are having quite the opposite.

    I am not really suggesting to put screws below, while I would encourage @admin to provide as a more complete guidance to what to do in such cases.

    Yeah i also wished there was a little more feedback/help from the side of the company, i know they are probably getting flooded with questions and complaints, but a little help would be greatly appreciated.

    But I'm actually working on a Marlin 2.0.7.1 FW build to test on my own CR-6 Max, i did finally get a hold of the stock V1.0.1 FW so if it fails or doesn't work i can just flash it back to the stock.



  • @JackRosario I'm sorry the sarcasm didn't get through, I am sharing your frustration with @Creality, promising a hassle experience with the CR6 while many of are having quite the opposite.

    I am not really suggesting to put screws below, while I would encourage @admin to provide as a more complete guidance to what to do in such cases.



  • @guivo said in Auto leveling not doing it's job?:

    @admin any more suggestions?

    Cr6 first layer, un the best days, is still slightly worse than my ender3v2. Should we install screws to manually level the bed?

    To quote myself from about 6 minutes ago:

    Most are saying i need to put washers under the bed, THEN WHAT IS THE POINT OF ABL IF I DO IT MYSELF?!



  • @guivo said in Auto leveling not doing it's job?:

    Just to add something to you list, did you check the nozzle itself?

    A tight nozzle, without leftovers, makes a difference.

    With the previous FW recompiled to have 3 probes, instead of two, my result was more even.

    Nozzle is clean and snug, also tried with a new one that has had no filament true it, still the same issues.

    You have firmware for the CR-6 Max? The SE firmware doesn't work on the Max.



  • @shinmai said in Auto leveling not doing it's job?:

    Other than the pretty exhaustive list, assuming everything is double and triple checked, one thing that comes to mind would be failed ABL due to threshold being too low or too high. Technically could be failed ABL due to outside factors, too, but it's really unlikely, because the leveling would have to fail quite consistently and almost identically twice at the same location.

    When you ABL, does the nozzle only very lightly touch the surface, or does it do a pronounced press on the bed, possibly flexing the hotend assembly up a tiny bit? If so, and if you haven't yet done that, I guess it's worth checking the strain gauge trim pot. Note that the workable area for the potentiometer is comically tiny, so use incredibly tiny adjustments. I'd use a multimeter to note the original value down before doing any tweaking.
    I've got my sensitivity tuned quite tight¹ and my bed leveling is silent, with the original values it did make a tiny tap, but it shouldn't ever actually press on the glass, just lightly touch it twice and move to the next spot on the grid.

    1) Had to route the cable assembly and bowden tube differently, to minimise outside stress on the bowden coupler. Reccommend doing this for the cable assembly anyway, to prevent it from breaking due to the rather dumb original design that places virtually all stress on the cable on the short length of unprotected ribbon cable.

    I'm doing all of the things right, already have the modified cable and bowden thing.
    ABL is just not working, so my CR-6 Max is useless, this is the second week of owning it, calibrating it, testing it, not a single print. nothing. useless. getting pretty fed up with this thing.

    It's just the firmware that doesn't work, it makes the EEPROM.bin on the SD card, but seems to not use it properly.

    Also there is no firmware for the CR-6 Max, not even the stock one is downloadable anywhere.

    Most are saying i need to put washers under the bed, THEN WHAT IS THE POINT OF ABL IF I DO IT MYSELF?!



  • @admin any more suggestions?

    Cr6 first layer, un the best days, is still slightly worse than my ender3v2. Should we install screws to manually level the bed?



  • Just to add something to you list, did you check the nozzle itself?

    A tight nozzle, without leftovers, makes a difference.

    With the previous FW recompiled to have 3 probes, instead of two, my result was more even.



  • Other than the pretty exhaustive list, assuming everything is double and triple checked, one thing that comes to mind would be failed ABL due to threshold being too low or too high. Technically could be failed ABL due to outside factors, too, but it's really unlikely, because the leveling would have to fail quite consistently and almost identically twice at the same location.

    When you ABL, does the nozzle only very lightly touch the surface, or does it do a pronounced press on the bed, possibly flexing the hotend assembly up a tiny bit? If so, and if you haven't yet done that, I guess it's worth checking the strain gauge trim pot. Note that the workable area for the potentiometer is comically tiny, so use incredibly tiny adjustments. I'd use a multimeter to note the original value down before doing any tweaking.
    I've got my sensitivity tuned quite tight¹ and my bed leveling is silent, with the original values it did make a tiny tap, but it shouldn't ever actually press on the glass, just lightly touch it twice and move to the next spot on the grid.

    1) Had to route the cable assembly and bowden tube differently, to minimise outside stress on the bowden coupler. Reccommend doing this for the cable assembly anyway, to prevent it from breaking due to the rather dumb original design that places virtually all stress on the cable on the short length of unprotected ribbon cable.


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