E3 V2 layer shifting



  • @admin I've checked everything but nothing works. The only thing that helps is extra cooling. Or the thermal paste is not good or some bad drivers but it looks like this isn't solvable other than extra cooling(which shouldn't be a solution in my opinion)



  • Dear @diegomoreira00 @shadycuz @Sennevds @Ventura_Kid

    I have double-checked with our engineer, they give a check solution for it:

    When printing the model found the wrong layer, please follow the following 7 steps step by step to investigate.
    1, replace the print model, re-slice, set the print speed to 50mm / s, moving speed set to 60mm / s, re-print; exclude the impact of the model itself, if re-slice and replace the model printing can not solve the problem then carry out the second step, if the problem has been solved, please ignore the following steps
    2. check the synchronous belt tightness (move the belt back and forth to determine whether it is too loose or too tight), re-adjust the belt tightness, and then check whether the motor line is in good contact; re-plug the motor connection line, check no problem, re-print; if adjusting the belt tightness & unplug the motor connection line can not solve the problem then carry out step 3, if the problem has been solved, please ignore the following steps.
    3. motor fault investigation, test the resistance of the motor pins (red arrow and blue arrow pointing to the resistance of the two pairs of pins, if the difference is large, the motor has problems, need to replace the motor) if the replacement of the motor can not solve the problem then carry out step 4, if the problem has been solved without the fourth step.
    4. Z-axis movement problem: a. Z-axis screw problem, check whether the screw is deformed, remove the screw, put it on the horizontal glass surface rolling, see whether there is bending. b. T-bar nut problem, check whether the T-bar nut screw is too tight. c. Pulley profile problem, check whether the pulley/profile has depression deformation, if the problem can not be solved, then proceed to step 5, if the problem has been solved without the 5th step.
    5. Check whether the screws on the motor in the corresponding misalignment direction are loose, if the screws are loose, they need to be tightened and then reprinted, if tightening the screws does not solve the problem, then proceed to step 6, if the problem has been solved, there is no need to proceed to step 6.
    6. Remove the misaligned shaft end motor, reassemble it, and then print the model to see if the wrong layer, such as reassembly can not solve the problem, then proceed to step 7, such as the problem has been solved without step 7.
    7. Determine the mislayer motor, measure whether the corresponding mislayer axis direction drive voltage is 0.7-0.73, if it is (0.7-0.73), then adjust the voltage to 1.18-1.2, and then re-print. if the problem can not be solved, you need to contact the after-sales staff to deal with. cs@creality.com



  • Made 3 successful prints of 5+ hours with an open case. I’ll replace the mainboard cover as suggested on that Reddit post and add an extraction fan.

    I’ll contact the reseller too.



  • I have the same issue. My E3 V2 is from December (this week). I've checked all the screws and bolts, all the belts look good. No binding on the Z axis. It works good for an hour or two at the most now. I hear the clunk and see the level shifting. Any long program fails. I have also another clue that no one has mentioned. NOW it freezes up after a couple of hours. I have to power it down, and restart. Thats obviously a processor error from the main board. I'm asking the factory for a replacement. Perhaps we should be replacing it with a different model. Perhaps a new model has a different circuit board that's not bothered by heat.



  • Hi there,

    I’m having the same issue on a brand new e3 v2.

    Printing small pieces works without problems. Printing wider pieces (wider on x or y) causes small hiccups and as consequence layer shifting.

    I’ve opened the motherboard case and left a gap so air can flow freely as per others suggested.

    So far it seems to be working... I’ll update again after a couple of prints.



  • So after opening the case and put the printer on little blocks, today I've loosened the belts a bit and lowered the vref of the Y-driver from 1.1V to 0.9V and it looks like it's printing okay now. Will report if the print succeeds or fails

    Edit: I've found a very good Reddit post on the subject. He has exactly the same as me (layer shift + thumb sound) and has a few videos where everything is quiet clear when it happens.
    https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/kn8u72/layer_shift_investigation_data_and_video/

    Edit 2: still some layer shifting happening. Better than before but still there. So still not usable on bigger prints.



  • @admin said in E3 V2 layer shifting:

    Check whether the motor line is loose contact is not good, test the resistance of the motor pins, under normal circumstances the red arrow and green arrow pointing to the resistance of the two pairs of pins is about the same

    So I measured the resistance between pin 1 and 4 and between 3 and 6. The first couple(1 and 4) measures 8Ohm's and the second couple (3 and 6) measures 8.2Ohms.

    I've raised the printer so it has more air under it and opened the casing but still can't print larger prints (semi-large works perfectly) It looks like if the motion in the x or y axis are longer I get the problem. So a small object (with small I mean XY small) everything works but as soon as I try to print something a bit wider I hear a click sound and layer shift happens.



  • I have the same problem. Opening the case let me print bigger objects without layer shift and click noise. It worked for 2 days but now I tried a print that would take 6 hours and had later shift after 1 hour. I've contacted the reseller and they said they know of the problem and are in contact with creality.

    If I need to do anymore tests I'm gladly to help.



  • @admin said in E3 V2 layer shifting:

    1. Check the slice layer height setting (0.15mm best)

    I'm confident that the layer height setting is not causing this issue. I'm using 0.24 for these test prints.

    1. Print speed is recommended to be 55 best

    I'm way below this. 347a24e2-cd94-4b96-ac68-69105c0d8417-image.png

    1. Check whether the X Y axis profile and the pulley are defective deformations, t rod nut to adjust a little loose

    I have double-checked belt tensions and the eccentric bearings on the guide wheels. The X,Y and Z are all moving freely with no binding. I can double-check the lead screw nut but it was very smooth when I assembled the machine 2 days ago.

    1. Check whether the motor line is loose contact is not good, test the resistance of the motor pins, under normal circumstances the red arrow and green arrow pointing to the resistance of the two pairs of pins is about the same

    I will check the stepper motors resistance and get back to you.

    If you would register an account here and read this post. You will see that several people are affected and they could only fix this problem by better cooling the control board.

    Here is some pictures they shared.

    alt text

    alt text



  • Dear @shadycuz

    1. Check the slice layer height setting (0.15mm best)
    2. Print speed is recommended to be 55 best
    3. Check whether the X Y axis profile and the pulley are defective deformations, t rod nut to adjust a little loose
    4. Check whether the motor line is loose contact is not good, test the resistance of the motor pins, under normal circumstances the red arrow and green arrow pointing to the resistance of the two pairs of pins is about the same
      ea3b62fa-56a0-444a-864d-03d185deb447-image.png
      1.png

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