Ender 5 pro stops feeding filament

  • 4 months of worry free printing, this thing is great !
    My 5 pro stops feeding filament about an hour into a print. The spool isnt jamming.
    The feed motor is moving, but the PLA gets mashed because there is nowhere to go.
    It's like the extruder cools off and plugs up.
    I can pull the PLA back out through the Bowden tube, re-feed the PLA, start print over and the same thing happens again after about an hour.
    HELP !

  • @gnslgr
    can you confirm that your hotend is enough hot to melt your filament? (put a bit of filament and touch the nozzle with, if needed).. also, have you checked if your filament is grinded by the extruder motor? (you may have to adjust your tension knob stiffer and/or clean the gear area of filament chips).. have you printed with a high temperature filament followed with a low temp one?
    you may need to open/clean the hotend filament path and change the ptfe tube if damaged..

    any supplemental details/descriptions will help someone here to answer your issue..

  • @Burmman I am having the same issue. I was printing mostly worry free for 8 months, now I can't get any consistent print to come out of my Ender 5 pro. I have changed out all eth hardware in the hot end twice. no difference. I have tried all the calibration tutorials I can and I got one good print out, then back to blockages, poor extrusion and failed prints. I have printed for 2 days before with no problem now I can't go 2 hours.

    I am wondering if the extruder motor itself is going but I don't know. I have no idea if it is my extruder, the motor or the gears. I am also going to try and swap out the heating element but after that if has to be back down to the extruder. otherwise I have no idea and I just can't stand the frustration any more. Hopefully someone on the forum knows what to do because creality usually provides no help at all.

  • I have very strong hate issues with my brandnew (only about 2 weeks old!) Ender 5 Pro printer and the After sales service provided by Creality. And about the poor filament gap design of the standard heatsink with hotend and the just copper nozzle! It worked very well with PLA but my machine now no longer works after I printed in PETG 3 bed supports (1 extra because the second one was not right) after about 20 hours or more!

    The 2 printed bed supports in PETG are fine but my extruder suddenly no longer was able to push in the filament. So I cleaned the nozzle and did what many users have to do to fix the damn filament clogging problem. And I afterwards had to push manually in VERY hard the new filament until it came out the nozzzle. Sadly I had to cut the PTFE tube already several times before so no longer could use it to print larger objects. But afterwards my printer no longer prints anything good, not even in PLA. So to tell a long story short. I think the standard machine is only fit to print in PLA very long hours but is destroyed now by just using PETG filament. The Creality after sales help sucks and the promise of sending free replacement parts within the first year of warranty is a claim that is not true! If I get my machine fixed again it is because I get rid of the standard gap issue problem heatsink and hotend with the non hardened nozzle. Why I already bought for about 200 euro/dollar an all metal heatsink with decent titanium hotend + hardened nozzle and new PTFE tube and other replacement parts. So that it really works with all special filaments like PETG, carbon and flexible filaments like nylon which it normally does not! And I therefore will never give any good review about these Creality printers or the shop that sold me this bad supported Chinese machine with its useless warranty!! Even the after sales helpline with the email option can't be used by non Chinese buyers because it requires a Chinese phonenumber to submit any message to Creality. And the answers thay provide didn't help at all! My printer is still completely useless just by printing with PETG and now needs at least new pneufits and new PTFE tube just to get it working again until it will fail again on PETG or the clogging! And I had good experiences before after building and calibrating an A8 ANET printer before! So never expected this poor quality of this bad and bad supported Ender 5 Pro printer!

  • Having checked your hotend fan is spinnings fast as, thusly as noisy as, usual. (if in doubt replace it.)

    Clear nozzle and throat by heating to at least above the temperature of the material you have been printing, as nozzle heats up and approaches say 180 for PLA tug the fillament out of there as it heats up so as to get as much out in the one pull as possible. once the nozzle has heated to say 10 or so above the filament print temperature and give it a minute, feed some filament in, until it starts to extrude. pull out fairly sharply all the way again,
    Use the nozzle pin provided with your printer (hope you got one) and make sure it can slide up into the nozzle a good couple centimeters. Try not to wobble it around as you dont really want to make the nozzle hole any larger, but if you have .4mm nozzle then your .4 pin should slide into it.

    take pin out. and then let the nozzle cool down. remove the nozzle. Depressing the bowden connector lock ring you can slide the bowden tube down some and check if there is filament on the outside of the tube. If not, cool, so slide back in and out a few times to clear the throat. holding the bowden connector lock ring down will help you and you want to pull out about half the length of the entire nozzle heatsink assembly and push it back through a couple times.
    Slide bowden tube back to about where it was before you started playing with it. inspect nozzle and see if you can see through it. maybe not if you didnt get all the filament out so ignore it, check where the bowden tube would butt up against it and clear as much off there as you can so it is as smooth as possible. Make sure bowden connector is tightly screwed into heatsink.

    If you have spares, now is a good time to replace the nozzle.

    screw nozzle in all the way into heater block then back out 1.5 full turn, depress bowden connector lock ring again and push tube all the way down until it hits the nozzle and wont go any further. lock the lock ring on the bowden connector so the tube cannot move. Now screw the nozzle all the way in.

    At the other end of the bowden tube, depress connector lock ring and remove the tube, check it, shiny? doesnt matter ignore it, make sure connector is nice n tight srewed into extruder.
    push tube all the way back in and lock in. make sure neither end can move about.

    OK, nice and clean and bowden seated firmly against nozzle.
    Once you have done this a few times it becomes quick and easy.

    Print long print. make sure it is extruding filament as you would normally expect. If it blocks again straight away, your heater will probably need replacing, usually an indicator of this is it heats up and cools down quicker than usual and temperature bounces around a bit more than usual. Often accompanied by stronger than usual filamenty burning smell when printing.

    When replacing do not tighten the grub screw holding it in too tight or you will do the same to the new heater. While your doing this you might as well change the thermister too, they are cheap. Careful putting that screw in that holds the thermistor wires to the heating block. That should be nowhere near tight.
    Once you have done this a few times it just becomes a real pain in the butt.

    should be good to go.

  • Filament can be stopped by four conditions.

    1. A clogged nozzle blocked by ancient reminants of filament past stuck inside the nozzle, charred which breaks loose and lodges in the nozzle blocking it.
    2. A jam caused by frequent long retractions which pull softened filament into the heat break which some time slowly enlarges in diameter until it prevents movement of the filament all together.
    3. When the extruder spring exerts too much force on the filament causing it to deform into a quasi elliptical cross section which binds in the Bowden tube causing under extrusion and possible stoppage of filament movement and aggravated by long frequent retractions.
    4. Loose fitting at either or both ends of the Bowden tube.
      The first three will result in clicking of the extruder and wear on the filament. The last will sometimes result in the filament escaping from the Bowden tube.

  • I have the exact same problem, it's getting frustrating to the point I'm thinking about giving up! Can anyone please help with this issue, I don't know what else to do.

  • @gnslgr Mine is doing the same. I can hear the filament extruder unit clicking when this happens. The gear is moving as it should but the filament isn't moving. I have changed my nozzle as I was told that I had a clogged nozzle and that was my problem. Didn't change anything. I'm at a lose with mine and ready to give up. I've owned it for 4 months and can't use it. Only things I have successfully printed were the 3 demo files on the card.

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