Ender 6 belongs in the bin

  • This printer is garbage. I have replaced the board, and I am about to try a BL Touch. I have had this printer since March and I have never gotten a straight week of work out of it. The run stop switch has never worked. I can level the bed, then start a print, and it the bed is nowhere near where it should be. I wish I never bought this thing.

  • Ok, I had a German RepRap printer before. Ender 6 is way better and for the price it is one of the best non industrial desktop 3D printers on the market. Why? It got a great metal extruder and a low vibration frame on a 24V mainboard with great Stepper drivers.
    Bed levelling is key to get started. Unfo Creality is stuck in an Antclabs exclusive deals like oh so many other 3D vendors. You can't get that BL touch included in the printer for auto bed level. Manual bed level plain sucks.
    I prefer a Hall sensor bed level sensor with 10 mm reading distance for 10 bucks plus a bit of soldering and cut a mount plate. It is hard to get stable voltage for that in the Ender 6 mainboard.
    The BL touch argument goes like "oh, but you got differences in reading the thickness of the metal of your print surface and temperutres." Well, I don't. I define the points of the plane I set my checkpoints for and I level a cold bed. In fact Creality isn't to blame for the mess Antclabs created with their licensing deal clauses here.
    Many people do want the Antclab product as an easy goto solution. So Creality is somewhat forced into that deal by their customers. Either you get yourself the BL touch or you start modify your Ender 6 yourself.
    Just don't supply a Hall sensor from a PWM voltage. You need a stable DC source. Don't try a microswitch, they are to inaccurate. A BL touch is a rip off price. Chew it or grow up and learn. Antclabs as a company isn't to low to downvote Hall sensors all over amazon in the comment sections. I used that by 2010 already when auto-bed level just came up. I progressed into UV Resin PLA and even PA12 laser SLS tech. My best machine is optimized to a 300k € industrial pro machine quality level now. Nevertheless I got myself a Ender 6 FDM for quick and dirty technical model review. For the 600 bucks it is a stellar great machine for what low cost direct drive FDM can achieve at maximum optimization. You really need to dig deep into your pockets and time to make it any better. I optimized my first FDM for 3 years and know the really deep ends of it's limitations as an engineer using this for pro R&D applications daily. As you don't seem to have the money for the Ultimaker or other out of the box experience what do you complain about here? If manual bed level blows your frustrations threshold in DIY maybe you are better off using pro print services and save you a steep and brutally hard learning curve. The best idea is to be a bit more humble and seek help step by step and grow into FDM maker skills. At best analyze why other people don't share your issue before you trash talk a vendor with a lot of happy customers.

  • Hi, @mmick If you want to try a Bl-Touch, you can refer to this video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxwJHA18o_g

  • @mmick You definitely want to add the BL-Touch, it makes a world of difference on leveling the bed. (I was also frustrated with the manual leveling, and spent many hours leveling and releveling the bed until I got the BL-Touch).

    Also the Ender 6 is designed to support the BL-Touch so installation is easy, the only part that takes some work is getting the wiring correct when wiring it up. Creality has a good video that shows the wiring configuration that I recommend (I had previously tried 2 different online videos that it turned out had 2 of the wires backwards, which definitely caused problems.)

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