Solutions for bed adhesion

  • Bed adhesion is a common problem for 3D printing. Low bed adhesion would lead to curled, shifted, and potentially disastrous results, which make it difficult to properly print successive layers.

    So, how to solve it?
    1.Bed leveling

    2.Adjust the distance between the nozzle and the build platform. The optimum distance is 0.1 mm. That is the thickness of a piece of A4 paper.

    3.Decrease printing speed of the first layer
    Adjust the bottom printing speed value to 20mm/s in Creality slicer.

    4.Increase nozzle and bed temperature
    The recommended nozzle temperature for PLA is 190-210℃,ABS is 240℃
    Bed temperature for PLA is 40-50℃,ABS is 90~110℃

    5.Use bed adhesive
    Bed adhesive like glue, hairspray, and masking tape are useful.
    Importantly, you just need to apply a thin layer of bed adhesive evenly on the platform.

    6.Use brim &raft
    Brim and raft expand the contact surface with the build plate. More contact surface would increase bed adhesion.
    You can set brim or raft in the slicer.

    Friends, If you have more solutions on bed adhesion, welcome to share it.

  • @Gracy The best bed adhesion is achieved on a cleaned mirror glass. This is due to the even temperature distribution by the thin metal film on the other side.

    When leveled correctly by auto-bed level and a 0.2 mm thickness gauge and set at right material temp the adhesion can be high enough to rip chips out of the glass.

    Glass mirror tiles go by 1 € per piece. You can cut them with a diamond disk and alcohol cooling with a Dremel type micro hand grinder.

    Some adhesive like hairspray will reduce chipping.

    On glass you really don't have much adhesion issues if you clean pre print with Ethanol spirit or Isopropanol.

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  • Hi, @Helium3 Thanks for your supplement😊

  • @Gracy
    my bed at 50c or less scrap my prints (on my CR10v3).. after many tests done, i use 60c for pla and pla+..
    if my first layer slide again, i clean the bed with 99% alcohol or recheck/re-adjust the bed level.. in case of all of this don’t work, i increase the nozzle temp +5c for more fluidity.. until now, that work well for me.. never i use glue/adhesive/tape or others supplements products (but yes for alcohol, that clean strange residual stuffs from some colors.. and the worst ones are silk pla for me)..

  • @BaDboD said in Solutions for bed adhesion:

    Avoid glues, they can help but...
    ...But generally, if you need glue then something else is wrong.


    I agree, I don't use any glue, spray, tape or whatever.

    But it is important to 'de-grease' the bed, and then keep your fingers off it!

    Every few weeks I wipe the bed using Isopropyl Alcohol (99,9% IPA). I cover the bed when not in use, and I use a dry clean cloth to remove any surface dust just before use.

  • @BaDboD Great guidance👍

  • 1: Z-height. depending on the bed plate this can be very critical to extremely critical. ~0.1mm

    2: Bed level. Make your plate flat and level. Level the bed corners and X-gantry (align Z steppers if more than one). Use Automatic Bed Leveling to 'flatten' the bed.

    3: Temperature, for PLA Bed 60 and nozzle 200 (check your brand but I always use the same setting for first layer regardless). In your slicer have it drop or raise to your wanted printer temperature after the first layer or so.

    4: Speed, you can start at 10mm/s to make it much easier, but aim for 20-30mm/s or be willing to wait forever for the first layer to complete. Build up as you get more proficient at getting a good Z-height and level bed.

    5: Some materials are more difficult than others, tape is a good suggestion, even required in some cases (try getting PETG of a smooth glass plate without breaking the glass). However build plate can make all the difference. The textured build plates are much easier to get a good first layer and adhesion. Smooth surfaces are much harder to get started, but can give exceptionally good adhesion if you can get the print to start the first line. Z-height is much more critical on smooth build plates like PEI or glass,

    6: Retraction: too slow or too fast and starting lines will be a problem. 25-35mm/s seems good for retract/unretract.

    7: Travel speed, too slow and you will ooze too much away between moves to get a good start to lines, especially on the first layer..

    8: Skirt or Brim: usually places the nozzle much closer to the actual start of print than purge lines so makes the start of print much easier. Brim adds to overall adhesion too.

    9: Fatter lines: using .6 or .8 line width makes laying down the first layer a lot easier. Not as pretty maybe, but easier line starts and better adhesion. Set in slicer to only use wider line for first layer.

    Avoid glues, they can help but if your using a BLTouch, for example, you are looking for trouble. So far, the probe tip of a BLTouch is the only thing I have ever found that WILL stick to pritt stick. But generally, if you need glue then something else is wrong.


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