Sounds like something borked. I have an E6 and can confirm the down arrow on the LCD moves the bed down.

IIRC there isn't much to mix up from a user perspective... bolt on the Z axis and plug it in. So unless it has wrong firmware loaded I'd guess it's the motor cable wired backwards?

Check the filament. I found out the hard way that the free reel that came with the printer was PLA+ not PLA. I'd not heard of PLA+ before then and as they hadn't shipped the PLA bundle I ordered (without telling me, I had to chase them to find out what happened to it) it was all I had. My symptoms were no bed adhesion (my own small prints, I didn't try the examples)

PLA+ has much higher temperature, I'm using 220 compared with 180 for PLA on my old Reprap Mendel.

@SteveDee said in My V2 Switch Relocator:

@billbyrd I guess a forum is only as good as its members. When I joined almost a year ago, it was also quite quiet, but then became quite active during the [northern hemisphere] summer.

..and it's difficult to even become a member in the first instance! New accounts need admin approval, and it took me about 3 weeks of nagging any email address I could find before someone eventually woke up and activated my account. Even direct chats on here were being ignored.

Forum suport is just one of the things nowdays. OK it is a way for the manufacturer to cut costs on support staff but it can sometimes be as good or better than talking to manufacturer support droids.

I very much doubt I would reccommend Creality to a friend.

@SteveDee Yeah that's exactly what I did.

Hint: cut the sheath longitudinally at first to guage the depth of the outer sheath. That way if you cut too deep the blade will probably end up between two conductors rather than cutting across them.

I know there's no guarantee of wire colours in mass-produced USB cables but I've never seen one with non-standard colours myself (and I've seen a few!). In any case the 5v 0v wires are usually easy to spot as they are thicker, and it's easy to use a meter to check (lack of) continuity to ground with the cable plugged in and the power off.

Never mind... bad form to reply to my own post but I got fed up in the 3 weeks waiting & nagging to get my post approved. In the end I decided to be on the safe side and hack a USB cable by cutting back a bit of the outer PVC and snipping the red 5v wire. Octoprint works fine now.

I see conflicting reports on the 'net. Can anybody definitively say whether it is OK to connect the micro-USB port on the mobo, or is there an issue with USB power requiring disconnection (there shouldn't be if thy're USB compliant!)?

Would be nice to see schematics to make an informed choice.

I've just built my E6 after finally deciding to stop struggling with my ancient Mendel and so far it seems pretty good - except the Z homing/levelling where it seems I'm not alone. The middle of the bed is out after setting the corners, and the overall height changes after a Z-home. The latter I think is just down to the cheap clunky microswitch which I'll be changing.

So I'll probably get a BL touch. There are some posts on here says it's OK but some of the YouTube reviews mention there's still some issues for example the horizontal offset for the probe.

So, is the stock firmware (1.0.4.9) suitable? I don't really want to go building & flashing another firmware if I can help it.