1: Z-height. depending on the bed plate this can be very critical to extremely critical. ~0.1mm

2: Bed level. Make your plate flat and level. Level the bed corners and X-gantry (align Z steppers if more than one). Use Automatic Bed Leveling to 'flatten' the bed.

3: Temperature, for PLA Bed 60 and nozzle 200 (check your brand but I always use the same setting for first layer regardless). In your slicer have it drop or raise to your wanted printer temperature after the first layer or so.

4: Speed, you can start at 10mm/s to make it much easier, but aim for 20-30mm/s or be willing to wait forever for the first layer to complete. Build up as you get more proficient at getting a good Z-height and level bed.

5: Some materials are more difficult than others, tape is a good suggestion, even required in some cases (try getting PETG of a smooth glass plate without breaking the glass). However build plate can make all the difference. The textured build plates are much easier to get a good first layer and adhesion. Smooth surfaces are much harder to get started, but can give exceptionally good adhesion if you can get the print to start the first line. Z-height is much more critical on smooth build plates like PEI or glass,

6: Retraction: too slow or too fast and starting lines will be a problem. 25-35mm/s seems good for retract/unretract.

7: Travel speed, too slow and you will ooze too much away between moves to get a good start to lines, especially on the first layer..

8: Skirt or Brim: usually places the nozzle much closer to the actual start of print than purge lines so makes the start of print much easier. Brim adds to overall adhesion too.

9: Fatter lines: using .6 or .8 line width makes laying down the first layer a lot easier. Not as pretty maybe, but easier line starts and better adhesion. Set in slicer to only use wider line for first layer.

Avoid glues, they can help but if your using a BLTouch, for example, you are looking for trouble. So far, the probe tip of a BLTouch is the only thing I have ever found that WILL stick to pritt stick. But generally, if you need glue then something else is wrong.

BaDboD

I replaced mine twice, keeping the good parts until I got all working, but then the firmware does not work, you cant even use 'home' or it tries to home off the bed. No way of changing anything. Also noticed if you pressed just about anything other than auto level and aux level the head just crashes into the bed.

Bent rails and bed wobbling about. Totally unadjustable (exactly as you describe, and same with 2 replacements but got straight rails with last one and could adjust it fine after rebuilding the bed.) Bent pin on the cables sockets on X gantry, rollers so tight V slots deformed and rollers oval, all of them, all axis. Z-steppers not even close to aligned. etc ect

Once the hardware was all fine then the electronics had to go. Mainly firmware don't work but to fix that.....

(I am talking about the firmware that is 'latest' as of this posting, CR-10 Smart_HW-CRC2405V1.2_SW-V1.07T19, and previous)

Wifi/LAN etc only works if you wanna use a mobile phone, LOL. and you cant configure the network settings. totally useless, could not even connect it to my network as you cannot configure the network settings. Replaced with alternative.

Replaced the board with a SKR CR6 board, all same connectors etc, fits straight in, even same mounting holes. So I now I could put a working firmware on it.

Replaced the display with a 12864 CR-10 Stock. The stock Smart display is exactly same as the stock Smart firmware, featureless, cant change anything and mostly does not work. Fine if your only leveling, or want to watch a hot nozzle ramming into your build plate. No use if your actually wanting to print. Far from 'smart'

Built and installed latest Marlin firmware 2.0.9.1, you can also get the CR6 Community firmware for it, ready built and works well as long you bin the stock display and change the board.

That's when it was safe to put filament in it and try a print. 4 weeks after receiving the first unit. I was ready to just refund it so many times. Did get a fairly hefty rebate from supplier seeing as 3 units all with bad hardware then to find it just does not work anyway. How are they selling this? Aahh yes, cheap.

I am now glad I stuck it out and made it work.

Prints really nice, auto leveling is a dream. I'm using UBL but Bilinear works well too. Unlike my other printers this one does level once then forever after you just print. Works every time, without any messing about. No need for babystepping every time HURRAH. The strain gauge nozzle sensor is really accurate and totally repeatable. I think I can get it to fit my Ender 3 V2 , maybe using the CR-6FE hotend? compared the BLTouch sux.

did you try OBS? when you plug it in, do you see it register as a device in syslog, or device manager? Certainly in windows a UVC device should show up as 'USB Video', if it needs a driver it will be under 'Unknown devices' but then it would not be UVC anyway.

from syslog
~$ tail -f /var/log/syslog
Aug 18 10:51:50 kernel: [ 53.593201] uvcvideo: Found UVC 1.00 device USB Video (534d:2109)
Aug 18 10:51:50 kernel: [ 53.622510] usbcore: registered new interface driver uvcvideo
Aug 18 10:51:50 kernel: [ 53.622513] USB Video Class driver (1.1.1)
Aug 18 10:51:50 mtp-probe: checking bus 1, device 2: "/sys/devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:11.0/0000:02:03.0/usb1/1-1"

not a Creality kit cam, just a generic UVC device.
If it does not get detected at all then faulty is my first.

there is a letter written in sharpie/felt tip on top of the SD card port on the controller board. You will need to lift the lid on the electronics / controller housing to see it. please refer to the list below to see which stepper drivers you have

C = HR4988
E = A4988
A = TMC2208
B = TMC2209
H = TMC2225

If it is the same as the Smart with a short piece of bowden tube in the throat then it is probably rattling around loose in there, my Smart was 1.5mm too short and only a week old. take the nozzle out and see if it is. cut a new length, make sure the piece of tube is protruding from the throat ~1mm so the nozzle tightens onto the tube , not the metal throat.

If your bowden goes all the way through the heatsink to the nozzle then loosen nozzle ,push tube down and lock it, then tighten nozzle up. Your symptom do sound like your nozzle is not pushed up hard against the tube. I was getting exactly same with the clunking extruder and missing bits of lines, clogging etc until I put a longer piece in so it was tight on the nozzle. stringing went away and needed much lower retraction too once it was fixed.

Your retraction should be ~6.5mm @25 or so mm/s . Too long a retraction can also cause partial clogging/unclogging, similar symptoms

oh, and if on sdcard, which sd-card? I understand there is an sdcard on the built in Creality Cloud Wifi box unit. Does it use this one? If so, when I remove the Creality Cloud Wifi box will it use the sdcard in the front slot instead?

Good one. I do hope they got one. I have never seen one.

Sorry but I fear Youtube, and google are your friends here. Apart from the leaflet you got in the box I don't think a manual exists, but I am happy to be proved wrong! I want a copy, to put in a glass case or frame.

There are a lot of good sites and Creality printers are very popular. you will find excellent guides at - all3dp.com/basics/ and youtube channels - CHEP, Chris Riley , Teaching Tec, MatterHackers etc etc. There are many more too.

BaDboD

well, makes no difference about sdcard. Inserted correctly formatted , supplied by Creality sdcard and does the same, sitting there after auto level and any action crashes nozzle into bed.

@admin that is good news, many thanks for your response. I have almost 2 weeks and not even put filament as all prepare will fail. Thank you again for good news about EEPROM

Is the latest firmware the 1.07 from creality website downloads link?

Marlin 2.0.9.1 has support for the BTT SKR CR6 board, which goes in the CR-10 Smart just fine. Now have not only working, but latest and greatest Marlin working perfectly. You will need to ditch the the stock touch for a 12864 CR-10-STOCK display or BTT35-V3.0 or similar., but that is pretty much a given anyway.
All the cables/connectors are in there already for dumping the built in wifi for something that actually works too! Octoprint or one of the slicers that will print over USB etc. From trash to treasure.

Really very good quality prints from this thing. Shame the Creality firmware and wifi do not work.

I replaced mine twice, keeping the good parts until I got all working, but then the firmware does not work, you cant even use 'home' or it tries to home off the bed. No way of changing anything. Also noticed if you pressed just about anything other than auto level and aux level the head just crashes into the bed.

Bent rails and bed wobbling about. Totally unadjustable (exactly as you describe, and same with 2 replacements but got straight rails with last one and could adjust it fine after rebuilding the bed.) Bent pin on the cables sockets on X gantry, rollers so tight V slots deformed and rollers oval, all of them, all axis. Z-steppers not even close to aligned. etc ect

Once the hardware was all fine then the electronics had to go. Mainly firmware don't work but to fix that.....

(I am talking about the firmware that is 'latest' as of this posting, CR-10 Smart_HW-CRC2405V1.2_SW-V1.07T19, and previous)

Wifi/LAN etc only works if you wanna use a mobile phone, LOL. and you cant configure the network settings. totally useless, could not even connect it to my network as you cannot configure the network settings. Replaced with alternative.

Replaced the board with a SKR CR6 board, all same connectors etc, fits straight in, even same mounting holes. So I now I could put a working firmware on it.

Replaced the display with a 12864 CR-10 Stock. The stock Smart display is exactly same as the stock Smart firmware, featureless, cant change anything and mostly does not work. Fine if your only leveling, or want to watch a hot nozzle ramming into your build plate. No use if your actually wanting to print. Far from 'smart'

Built and installed latest Marlin firmware 2.0.9.1, you can also get the CR6 Community firmware for it, ready built and works well as long you bin the stock display and change the board.

That's when it was safe to put filament in it and try a print. 4 weeks after receiving the first unit. I was ready to just refund it so many times. Did get a fairly hefty rebate from supplier seeing as 3 units all with bad hardware then to find it just does not work anyway. How are they selling this? Aahh yes, cheap.

I am now glad I stuck it out and made it work.

Prints really nice, auto leveling is a dream. I'm using UBL but Bilinear works well too. Unlike my other printers this one does level once then forever after you just print. Works every time, without any messing about. No need for babystepping every time HURRAH. The strain gauge nozzle sensor is really accurate and totally repeatable. I think I can get it to fit my Ender 3 V2 , maybe using the CR-6FE hotend? compared the BLTouch sux.

@BobKriss said in cr10 v1 shrink firmware:

CR10 with v1.1.2 board

I think that by the time you have turned off features to fit you won't have BLTouch or babystepping etc.
The last , most feature rich Marlin version for those boards was 1.19 I think. The 2.0.x Marlin is unlikely to fit with the features you want.

Good luck though, Let us know if and how you did it. Otherwise I might suggest to update the board to go with all those upgrades. You won't regret it. Fully featured latest Marlin 2.0.9.1 bugfix is < 290K compiled. With newer boards having 32 bit with minimum 512K, plenty of room and speed.

BaDboD

Good one. I do hope they got one. I have never seen one.

Sorry but I fear Youtube, and google are your friends here. Apart from the leaflet you got in the box I don't think a manual exists, but I am happy to be proved wrong! I want a copy, to put in a glass case or frame.

There are a lot of good sites and Creality printers are very popular. you will find excellent guides at - all3dp.com/basics/ and youtube channels - CHEP, Chris Riley , Teaching Tec, MatterHackers etc etc. There are many more too.

BaDboD

did you try OBS? when you plug it in, do you see it register as a device in syslog, or device manager? Certainly in windows a UVC device should show up as 'USB Video', if it needs a driver it will be under 'Unknown devices' but then it would not be UVC anyway.

from syslog
~$ tail -f /var/log/syslog
Aug 18 10:51:50 kernel: [ 53.593201] uvcvideo: Found UVC 1.00 device USB Video (534d:2109)
Aug 18 10:51:50 kernel: [ 53.622510] usbcore: registered new interface driver uvcvideo
Aug 18 10:51:50 kernel: [ 53.622513] USB Video Class driver (1.1.1)
Aug 18 10:51:50 mtp-probe: checking bus 1, device 2: "/sys/devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:11.0/0000:02:03.0/usb1/1-1"

not a Creality kit cam, just a generic UVC device.
If it does not get detected at all then faulty is my first.

@koditza bootloader is built in on the 4.2.2 boards. Firmware is readily downloaded from various sources (creality.com is one) or you can compile your own, Marlin, Try different SD-cards, format fat32 with 4096 bytes per Allocation Unit. some report problems with cards over 32 Gb, and some report problems with certain brands or types. SD HC types seem to be reliable. Never having had a problem with any size or type I cant say, but see a lot of reports. If you cant get it working then return/replace. Must be faulty.

If your looking for firmware for much older boards for the Ender 3 then many guides available and again firmware is readily downloadable. Also guides for adding bootloaders so you don't have to do it again. Boards are cheap so I might also suggest upgrading anyway. With newer Marlin firmware you will not get it to fit on the old boards without a fight.

1: Z-height. depending on the bed plate this can be very critical to extremely critical. ~0.1mm

2: Bed level. Make your plate flat and level. Level the bed corners and X-gantry (align Z steppers if more than one). Use Automatic Bed Leveling to 'flatten' the bed.

3: Temperature, for PLA Bed 60 and nozzle 200 (check your brand but I always use the same setting for first layer regardless). In your slicer have it drop or raise to your wanted printer temperature after the first layer or so.

4: Speed, you can start at 10mm/s to make it much easier, but aim for 20-30mm/s or be willing to wait forever for the first layer to complete. Build up as you get more proficient at getting a good Z-height and level bed.

5: Some materials are more difficult than others, tape is a good suggestion, even required in some cases (try getting PETG of a smooth glass plate without breaking the glass). However build plate can make all the difference. The textured build plates are much easier to get a good first layer and adhesion. Smooth surfaces are much harder to get started, but can give exceptionally good adhesion if you can get the print to start the first line. Z-height is much more critical on smooth build plates like PEI or glass,

6: Retraction: too slow or too fast and starting lines will be a problem. 25-35mm/s seems good for retract/unretract.

7: Travel speed, too slow and you will ooze too much away between moves to get a good start to lines, especially on the first layer..

8: Skirt or Brim: usually places the nozzle much closer to the actual start of print than purge lines so makes the start of print much easier. Brim adds to overall adhesion too.

9: Fatter lines: using .6 or .8 line width makes laying down the first layer a lot easier. Not as pretty maybe, but easier line starts and better adhesion. Set in slicer to only use wider line for first layer.

Avoid glues, they can help but if your using a BLTouch, for example, you are looking for trouble. So far, the probe tip of a BLTouch is the only thing I have ever found that WILL stick to pritt stick. But generally, if you need glue then something else is wrong.

BaDboD

the coated metal bed (PEI?) do not start as easily as the original glass bed. your Z height needs to be much more accurate than when using the original glass bed.

If the start of a line curls up and drags along then sticks, but otherwise looks fine and fat then you are too far away, keep reducing the height 0.01 or 0.02 at a time until it starts fine every time.

so start at something like .2 and if it is way to high try 0.18. If 0.2 it is not way too high, start at 0.3 you want to start too far away and then move closer by small amounts so you don't overshoot,

Once it does start to stick but is still folding a little back at the line start then just go down in 0.01 , if you go too far it will start the lines but it will go thin, patchy, hopefully you would have stopped reducing once you get consistent line start and way before you start scratching the bed.

For a good first layer on the Creality printers I use flow rate 103% or 105% for the initial layers (set in slicer) then the rest of the print 100% as long as you have set your steps, which are always too low on these machines, Ender 3 V2 ~103 steps, CR-10 Smart 100 steps the factory 93 and 95 always under extrudes.

Always start print at 200 noz and 60 bed (any bed plate), then you can drop to the desired 195 noz and 55 bed after first couple layers (if that's your normal print temp.) Going hotter does not seem to help much with PEI plate, more about correct Z-height.

And make sure your bed is level and redo your ABL, no point getting a good start if your gonna ruin it by not having a level bed, it will just fall apart. After changing plate you need to re-level anyway. I find the PEI flatter than the glass. As I use UBL, if I did not re-level it would still be changing the Z-height height all over the place thinking it is the warped glass plate, thus making for a non starter bad first layer.

Since you changed the bowden, it sounds like it is not properly seated on the nozzle (or has worked loose over the last year). Make sure the connectors grip it properly, changing to Capricorn often does this as it is thinner and you will need to replace the connectors to grip it properly.
Make sure when you screw in the nozzle it is tightening the last full turn against the bowden tube, not the throat. Check that the connectors at both the hot-end and the extruder are gripping it properly and there is no movement.

loose bowden or not very firmly butted up to nozzle bowden can lead to partial clogging which would free itself after a short time. or complete clog requiring stopping the print and re heating the nozzle to pull the fillament out some then back in to free it. Then it will do it again at a similar interval during the next print.

It is just a guess but does fit with you changing the bowden. I dont think the extruder has anything to do with it if it is succesfully chewing the hell out of the filament when the hot end clogs.

If this is not the case then please do let us know what solved it for you so we can add it to our list of possible causes.

sounds a bit like partial clogging, make sure your nozzle is tightened firmly against the bowden tube. If this is 'leaking' you will get partial clog then a clunk (the extruder letting go due to clogged, or the clog suddenly clearing once it has warmed up enough) and the clog clears and continues printing until it happens again, with missing bits of lines and uncontrollable stringing. If you are seeing a lot of stringing this is a good indicator. Make sure it is also firm at the extruder and not moving around in the connector.

Retractions should be ~6.5mm @ 25mm/s or so, if your way over that it can also cause this partial clogging behavior, If you need it much higher than this to stop stringing then it also suggests your bowden is not firmly butted up to the nozzle or is loose and moving around generally.

It is just a guess but your symptoms fit. Do let us know what you find regardless so we can add it to our list of possible causes

If it is the same as the Smart with a short piece of bowden tube in the throat then it is probably rattling around loose in there, my Smart was 1.5mm too short and only a week old. take the nozzle out and see if it is. cut a new length, make sure the piece of tube is protruding from the throat ~1mm so the nozzle tightens onto the tube , not the metal throat.

If your bowden goes all the way through the heatsink to the nozzle then loosen nozzle ,push tube down and lock it, then tighten nozzle up. Your symptom do sound like your nozzle is not pushed up hard against the tube. I was getting exactly same with the clunking extruder and missing bits of lines, clogging etc until I put a longer piece in so it was tight on the nozzle. stringing went away and needed much lower retraction too once it was fixed.

Your retraction should be ~6.5mm @25 or so mm/s . Too long a retraction can also cause partial clogging/unclogging, similar symptoms