You're not wrong in your thinking. But there's a work-around that I've become very familiar with. Make the top as a second part that fits into the tube. That way you can print the tube and the bottom as one piece without supports and then you print the top flat, no supports. I'll be glad to draw it up for you.

Is the tube going to be closed at the top and the bottom? Will it have a roof and a floor and four sides? And will it be hollow?

@auzzyboy said in How to remove slight corner warping:

@billbyrd just bits and bats. Some structural parts and some gimmicky stuff like thors hammer etc ha.
The strange thing is that it does it randomly? It doesn't happen evertime but thier is nothing I am changing between prints - I have ran a same print several times and I seem to get different results each time?

I use the Ender 3 max. I have properly calibrated it with an engineers square and using measuring equipment so all the structural parts are aligned. I have also tried different software settings for the first layer like not running the part fans or altering the Z height but I simply can't seem to get rid of the random warping?!

It's true that corners tend to warp for scientific reasons, but I've printed plenty of things with corners that didn't lift. My advice is to use 200/50 for heat, use a carborundum coated glass build plate (they come standard with the Ender3 V2). Wash the plate between prints, apply a thin coat of glue stick after the plate has warmed. Do that, then try printing some test squares 75 x 75 x 2mm and see if they don't stay put. Oh, and of course, level the bed using the paper method.

What are you printing? Is it square, round? What are the dimensions?

@amrap said in Name of the required ender 5 usbcable?:

I bought a power & data cable and I still can't get my computer to recognize the Ender-5.

Okay dude. I can help. I ordered a cable from Amazon knowing that its claims to do both (charge and data) could be true or not. It was true. It connects my Ender3 V2 to my PC and I'm able to connect with Pronterface. So it definitely works. Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07232M876/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As I said before, I've never been in the same room with an Ender 6, I have two Ender3 V2s. But the power cord is probably the same. If so, there is a fuse in a little drawer-like slot just above the power cord inlet. It's not convenient at all. You'll probably have to take a pocket knife to get it out. It looks more like a picture of a fuse, but there's actually a fuse in there. If it's blown, you still have the challenge of finding the short that caused it to blow. But at least you'll know what the problem is.

I've never even been up close to a 6, but I've played around with stepper motors for some years now. Did you actually install the motor? I can't imagine that it would be possible to install it wrong. Assuming that it's impossible to do that, there are only two other things I can think of that would affect the direction of the Z travel: 1) The factory put the wires into the couplers backward, not at all likely. 2) Your settings are backward so that you're traveling Z+ when you need to be traveling Z-, or vice versa. That choice would have been made when configuring the firmware. If that's the case, you'd need to find out how to access it so that you can change the setting.

I've been going through the same thing with my Ender3 V2. It uses a USB micro at the printer and a regular USB A at the PC. But as SteveDee said, you can't tell by looking at a cable if it's charge AND data, or just charge. I just ordered one from Amazon. It claims to carry both. If it doesn't, I'll send it back. Many vendors on Amazon don't mind lying about their products. And some of them simply don't know. They just tell us what their vendor told them. There exist a fancy little device for checking all of your cables so that you can throw out all those that only do one thing (charge). I want all my cables to do both. They cost any more. Anyhow, the device will not ship to the US where I live and Amazon doesn't seem to have anything like it. Looks very simple to build. Here's a link to a very short video that describes it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhuroLgFNCc&t=13s&ab_channel=ShaneMiller-GPLama
PS: The guy in the video says you don't really need the device. Says that any cable capable of data AND charge will show up in your Windows Device Manager. But I'd like to have one anyhow.

@drw "Does it work?"
Uhh... yes.

@3dOrNotTo3d Right! Nowadays, corporations let their customers take care of support issues. I do see the value in that. Really cuts down on payroll. But, hell, if you rely totally on your "communities" to take care of support, you're going to lose many potential customers who see that as a shoddy way to run a business. MANY products in today's world operate that way. If you're lucky enough to be analytical and good at figuring things out, you'll really enjoy those products. Otherwise, you're screwed. I wouldn't recommend 3d printing IN GENERAL, to anyone who expects things to just work or have factory support. I don't expect Creality to actually respond to any of my issues.