@admin I notice your response to questions often refers your customer to your support email for faster resolution. This helps the customer but not anybody looking for help with the same problem.
Please consider posting a summary of the resolution into the forum. This will help others and maybe even reduce the support calls you receive.
Also noted there are a number of older posts seeking advice that have not been answered. In my opinion this reflects badly on Creality for not responding so would be good to see some more admin support dedicated to this.
Otherwise great to have a dedicated forum for your printers. Keep up the good work
Bob

@Stefano Good Point. I had assumed the poster was already aware of the process leading up to feeding the printer with G-Code.

Set of tools typically follow this chain:

1. Create or download a 3D model / Drawing
2. Take model (often in the form of a .STL file) and convert it into G-Code
3. Send G-Code to printer by putting it onto an SD card (recommended - no software needed) or via USB

For 1) try TinkerCAD or Fusion360 (don't know if there's a mac version) for free. Many others exist. Thingyverse has plenty of models to download. Look at Inkscape for lasering, I'm told it has a good plugin.

For 2) As you have a 3-in-1 machine the software to get from model to print/carve/burn may vary.

For filament printing Cura is good but my version doesn't have CP-01 so you may have to create your own configuration. Slic3r is also quite capable and possibly easier for a novice to configure.

Carbide Create seems pretty good for carving (takes in .SVG among others). I've managed to use it for laser work too but it is not as intuitive for this purpose.

Good luck

@Bruce If Rhino has a built in slicer then the g-code it generates will likely be compatible. The g-code must be specifically tailored to a 3D printer. As you know it contains commands to move x,y,z,tools etc. Without understanding the NC machine g-code generation is not possible.
Alternatively, look to see if Rhino outputs .STL files then use slicer software such as Cura or Slic3r which generates the g-code for your printer.

@getdjc The Y bed carriage is not symmetrical. It has likely been fitted the wrong way round. It is the roller that activates the switch, the tension adjusting rollers (ones with hex shaft) should be on the right.

@mattjudy @josepharthur
Typical operation is via the SD card in which case the computer type is not relevant.
Although the printer can be attached to a computer most users prefer not to as doing so requires the computer to stream the gcode to the printer for the duration of the print (many hours). Any interruption to this streaming can corrupt your print. Continuing to use the computer, updates or screens turning off to conserve power all have a chance to mess up your print.

@rdt1810 I wouldn't expect you have done any lasting damage. The motors aren't that powerful in my opinion.
I would suggest removing the z-axis lead screw (undo grub screw to lead screw at the coupling).
With that out of the way raise and lower the carriage by hand (Apply movement to motor side only don't hold both sides). Should be smooth all the way up and down. Report back with your findings.
Bob

@rolf a gcode file contains everything the printer needs to make something. The examples you have printed have already been sliced into gcode. To make things of your own (or tweak settings) you will need a slicer. The slicer takes a 3d model and creates a gcode file which is then sent to the printer. Cura is quite good and can be downloaded for free.

@crealityMatt the z axis micro switch could be faulty. They're cheap to replace but even when working are not great on tolerance. I fitted a BL touch which has been excellent but I know others have had less positive experiences with them.

@RubiconSC try disconnecting the vertical screw bar at the stepper motor and manually raise and lower. If you have a flat on any rollers or they're too tight against the extrusion you may feel the carriage notch into position. The notch should repeat as you move full travel. Mine was solved by loosening the tension in the rollers but if you have an actual flat you need to replace one or more.

@mistryp Can you confirm by printing the same object that the freeze point is random? If not random then the issue likely lies within the gcode, either its generation or the printers response to a command. If random then start looking at all the connections and maybe separate the BL Touch cables from the others (might be picking up noise). Also, watch the nozzle and bed temperatures. They should be stable, if not the printer might stop thinking it's going into thermal run away.

@sduck The BL Touch should be installed so it activates with the print nozzle approximately 3mm above the bed. If you need 10mm+ offset then check the BL touch is installed at the correct height. Otherwise check that 10mm dialled up = 10mm in distance, if not your z calibration could need setting.
I found setting the offset hit & miss and that repeatedly Homing and moving Z to 0mm then tweaking the offset before homing again........ eventually gave me the correct offset.

@rolf a gcode file contains everything the printer needs to make something. The examples you have printed have already been sliced into gcode. To make things of your own (or tweak settings) you will need a slicer. The slicer takes a 3d model and creates a gcode file which is then sent to the printer. Cura is quite good and can be downloaded for free.

@Alain_Reiner not sure I've understood properly regarding filament. There is no need to remove it unless changing colour. Are you saying that auto level and home when done using the printer controls results in a different height to that from cura? If the initial to and fro is correct but the actual print is wrong then I wonder if the bed is not level. Either that or the auto level not working properly.

@Alain_Reiner your print doesn't look very flat. Are you sure the first layer is adhering well? Try aborting a print after the first layer and measure the thickness. It should closely match that of the slicer settings. Usually 0.2 to 0.3mm. It's also critical to level the bed if you don't have a bl touch sensor and that the bed is very clean

@AZOR and the suggestion to check ambient temperature relates to checking the temperature reported for nozzle and bed before trying to heat them up. They should be much the same.

@AZOR the nozzle is the 195 degree part and the bed is the lower temperature part. Knowing this may mean you have been checking the wrong item for temperature increase. Use caution checking nozzle temp as it heats quickly and gets hot enough to burn.

@Hntr11 could be a normal sound. Some prints involve tiny rapid movements that can produce more noise than usual. It's usually a thin area of 100 infill but not always.