@admin I notice your response to questions often refers your customer to your support email for faster resolution. This helps the customer but not anybody looking for help with the same problem.
Please consider posting a summary of the resolution into the forum. This will help others and maybe even reduce the support calls you receive.
Also noted there are a number of older posts seeking advice that have not been answered. In my opinion this reflects badly on Creality for not responding so would be good to see some more admin support dedicated to this.
Otherwise great to have a dedicated forum for your printers. Keep up the good work
Bob

@Stefano Good Point. I had assumed the poster was already aware of the process leading up to feeding the printer with G-Code.

Set of tools typically follow this chain:

1. Create or download a 3D model / Drawing
2. Take model (often in the form of a .STL file) and convert it into G-Code
3. Send G-Code to printer by putting it onto an SD card (recommended - no software needed) or via USB

For 1) try TinkerCAD or Fusion360 (don't know if there's a mac version) for free. Many others exist. Thingyverse has plenty of models to download. Look at Inkscape for lasering, I'm told it has a good plugin.

For 2) As you have a 3-in-1 machine the software to get from model to print/carve/burn may vary.

For filament printing Cura is good but my version doesn't have CP-01 so you may have to create your own configuration. Slic3r is also quite capable and possibly easier for a novice to configure.

Carbide Create seems pretty good for carving (takes in .SVG among others). I've managed to use it for laser work too but it is not as intuitive for this purpose.

Good luck

@rolf a gcode file contains everything the printer needs to make something. The examples you have printed have already been sliced into gcode. To make things of your own (or tweak settings) you will need a slicer. The slicer takes a 3d model and creates a gcode file which is then sent to the printer. Cura is quite good and can be downloaded for free.

@rdt1810 I wouldn't expect you have done any lasting damage. The motors aren't that powerful in my opinion.
I would suggest removing the z-axis lead screw (undo grub screw to lead screw at the coupling).
With that out of the way raise and lower the carriage by hand (Apply movement to motor side only don't hold both sides). Should be smooth all the way up and down. Report back with your findings.
Bob

@mattjudy @josepharthur
Typical operation is via the SD card in which case the computer type is not relevant.
Although the printer can be attached to a computer most users prefer not to as doing so requires the computer to stream the gcode to the printer for the duration of the print (many hours). Any interruption to this streaming can corrupt your print. Continuing to use the computer, updates or screens turning off to conserve power all have a chance to mess up your print.

@getdjc The Y bed carriage is not symmetrical. It has likely been fitted the wrong way round. It is the roller that activates the switch, the tension adjusting rollers (ones with hex shaft) should be on the right.

@BruceF makes removal easy and allows for expansion as it heats up. Remove to knock off stubborn prints or clean the surface.

@Bruce If Rhino has a built in slicer then the g-code it generates will likely be compatible. The g-code must be specifically tailored to a 3D printer. As you know it contains commands to move x,y,z,tools etc. Without understanding the NC machine g-code generation is not possible.
Alternatively, look to see if Rhino outputs .STL files then use slicer software such as Cura or Slic3r which generates the g-code for your printer.

@BruceF I use a tiny amount of light oil such as 3 in 1 for the lead screws on my ender 3. Nothing else that might squeak springs to mind.

@BGies my ender 3 is fussy with sd cards. I used to format it regularly and keep short alpha/numeric filenames but it was never great. Then got a raspberry pi and installed octo print which connects via USB. This gives nice interface on your browser and even a camera feed of the print. You can initiate and monitor from your phone. £60 or so well spent.

@Amazon62 great news. Got there in the end

@Amazon62 not sure what else to suggest. Hopefully someone will have some more ideas.

@Amazon62 with the height being correct I'm guessing the z axis fault is not related to this problem. I've not seen prints shrink back as much as this since printing with abs. Have you checked the temperature is correct for the plastic? I wonder if it's printing really hot. Perhaps knocked the temp sensor loose and running hotter than you should. That might explain the amount of shrinkage you see. Hotter it starts out the more it will shrink.

@Amazon62 The cable damage may have caused a fault in the stepper driver. Try recalibrating to be sure it rotates the correct amount.

@x-stride firstly I'd suggest not varying the speed. Going faster is something to try once you get everything right at normal speed. A successful print depends on so many parameters and you have not shared any in your post.
Eg. Bed temperature, filament type, filament temperature, nozzle size, layer height..... would be a good start.

@SPlatten the filament should feed through by the amount requested. 10mm should see 10mm get pulled through. With the z axis set well above the bed make a mark 20mm up on the filament and request 20mm then watch as the mark stops just before the extruder.
You should see a clean ish worm of filament coming out.
If that looks right then check the nozzle clearance with the bed when printing. If the gap is too small it can result in filament being blocked from getting out. .

@BruceF I use a tiny amount of light oil such as 3 in 1 for the lead screws on my ender 3. Nothing else that might squeak springs to mind.

@BruceF makes removal easy and allows for expansion as it heats up. Remove to knock off stubborn prints or clean the surface.

@SPlatten if its pla filament you might find it softens enough to pull it out if you heat it up with boiling water.