@admin I notice your response to questions often refers your customer to your support email for faster resolution. This helps the customer but not anybody looking for help with the same problem.
Please consider posting a summary of the resolution into the forum. This will help others and maybe even reduce the support calls you receive.
Also noted there are a number of older posts seeking advice that have not been answered. In my opinion this reflects badly on Creality for not responding so would be good to see some more admin support dedicated to this.
Otherwise great to have a dedicated forum for your printers. Keep up the good work
Bob

@Stefano Good Point. I had assumed the poster was already aware of the process leading up to feeding the printer with G-Code.

Set of tools typically follow this chain:

1. Create or download a 3D model / Drawing
2. Take model (often in the form of a .STL file) and convert it into G-Code
3. Send G-Code to printer by putting it onto an SD card (recommended - no software needed) or via USB

For 1) try TinkerCAD or Fusion360 (don't know if there's a mac version) for free. Many others exist. Thingyverse has plenty of models to download. Look at Inkscape for lasering, I'm told it has a good plugin.

For 2) As you have a 3-in-1 machine the software to get from model to print/carve/burn may vary.

For filament printing Cura is good but my version doesn't have CP-01 so you may have to create your own configuration. Slic3r is also quite capable and possibly easier for a novice to configure.

Carbide Create seems pretty good for carving (takes in .SVG among others). I've managed to use it for laser work too but it is not as intuitive for this purpose.

Good luck

@tundwd Hi, I've had a few issues with first layer adhesion too. I seem to have it sorted now though.
Levelling the bed was critical. It's a progressive process moving the print head above each of the 4 level adjusters while slowly closing the gap on the paper. Keep your fingers out the way and make sure the nozzle is hot else you could be setting the height to a blob of plastic. I don't have the bed at temperature but it won't hurt. When hot the paper will knock off any excess plastic.
I move the X & Y axis manually (disable steppers with the controller) at this stage. Be careful not to move the z axis while doing this. If you do then re-home before continuing. You should be able to feel the paper being clamped on all 4 positions above the adjusters. If the paper tears it's too tight.
Once satisfied you are bang on level re-home and check again, this time try using the move commands (rather than push the axis about) and check levels at all 4 points. If you see inconsistencies check the tension of the rollers on all axis. Holding the axis stationary you should just be able to rotate the rollers with two fingers. (there may be a more technical way to check but that worked for me).
I go with bed temperature of 60° and push the PLA temp up to 215 which seemed to help adhesion.
Are you printing on textured 'glass' or ultra smooth shiny glass? Mine came with black textured glass and PLA stuck quite well to that. I have no experience of shiny glass but suspect you might benefit from a coating of glue if you have that.
I found the best way to confirm the nozzle height is measure the thickness of the first layer with callipers or micrometer. Let me know how you get on.

@rdt1810 I wouldn't expect you have done any lasting damage. The motors aren't that powerful in my opinion.
I would suggest removing the z-axis lead screw (undo grub screw to lead screw at the coupling).
With that out of the way raise and lower the carriage by hand (Apply movement to motor side only don't hold both sides). Should be smooth all the way up and down. Report back with your findings.
Bob

@mattjudy @josepharthur
Typical operation is via the SD card in which case the computer type is not relevant.
Although the printer can be attached to a computer most users prefer not to as doing so requires the computer to stream the gcode to the printer for the duration of the print (many hours). Any interruption to this streaming can corrupt your print. Continuing to use the computer, updates or screens turning off to conserve power all have a chance to mess up your print.

@Bruce If Rhino has a built in slicer then the g-code it generates will likely be compatible. The g-code must be specifically tailored to a 3D printer. As you know it contains commands to move x,y,z,tools etc. Without understanding the NC machine g-code generation is not possible.
Alternatively, look to see if Rhino outputs .STL files then use slicer software such as Cura or Slic3r which generates the g-code for your printer.

@getdjc The Y bed carriage is not symmetrical. It has likely been fitted the wrong way round. It is the roller that activates the switch, the tension adjusting rollers (ones with hex shaft) should be on the right.

@aliciamilford01 you could purchase 3-4 Creality printers for under £1000. They may not be as good or well supported as the big brands names but they're quite capable machines once set up properly. In a classroom setting would 4 lesser machines be better than 1?

@Kevin_Bogard the video shows the switch lever being touched. Does it always touch? If so I would say there's an issue with the switch itself. It shouldn't activate until the click sound but I've experienced the normally closed contact being intermittent as the plunger moves just before the click. You could change the switch or get a BL touch upgrade. The touch is much more accurate once set up.

@Kevin_Bogard you didn't answer the part about whether the z carriage makes an attempt to move down. If it doesn't you may have a problem with the z axis switch. If it does I'm thinking perhaps a noise issue randomly triggering the z axis stop. If this is the case try winding the z to the top. You'll likely find after each home request it will move down a random amount before a false trigger.

@Kevin_Bogard So after homing you are able to disable steppers and manually wind the carriage down until it hits the switch? When homing does the carriage move down at all?

@loggerman Did you set up the Z-Offset before printing?

@hart-auto I have the Ender 3 V2 but expect the 3 Pro is similar.
On power up the BL Touch should pop out a few times as a self test and be lit up red. Auto home should home X, Y then Z. X & Y home as before but the Z now homes using the BL Touch & not the old switch (which should be removed). On mine after X&Y are homed they are centred then Z increases a little (to allow for the BL touch probe to miss the bed in case it was left very low). Then the BL Touch sensor pops out and the red light goes out. The carriage then lowers until the bed is sensed and the red light comes back on. Then the carriage raises and repeats a second time but lowering the carriage at a slower rate for better accuracy.
At what point does your printer not follow these steps?

@METUNGMAX Could be a thermal issue or loose connection. Try checking everything is properly connected and open up the bottom panel access to the controller board and make sure the fan is running & not in contact with any wires when you put it back together again.

@Kevin_Bogard The z axis would usually keep moving until the switch is activated. Perhaps the carriage is getting caught or stuck on its way down. Does it make a loud noise? After, if you switch the printer off, can you manually rotate the z axis lead screws to lower the carriage onto the switch?

@jax200 It is a setting available in most slicers.
In Cura it is here:-