I'm using the filament that came with printer. Make sure you are using the software that came on the SD card that has the CR-6 SE printer profile, and make sure that it is setting the bed temperature to 60C when you are printing. I started out with the wrong printer profile that was setting bed temp to 40C and prints would fall off almost right away. With bed temp set to 60C things stick really well...to the point that I need to let the bed cool off a little otherwise it sticks so well that it is hard to remove.

Just had this same problem. Selected a file in the controller and the whole printer turned off, and will not turn on. No electric smell, tried different plug and other obvious things as you did. I have not had the chance to look at the rocker switch but will check that out later today hopefully.

Just an FYI this was my first firmware update so still learning @shinmai you pointed me in the right direction...thank you

@cweiss if you start the printer with the mainboard firmware updated but NOT the screen firmware then you'll only see Chinese language. I ran into that also. Now that screen firmware is properly updated I see english again and all is well.

@shinmai my numbers don't look exactly like yours but they are mostly non-zero. I looked at the contents of the DWIN_SET folder and there are 3 .bin files but my update screen only showed one. On my first attempt I uncompressed the zip file in MacOS and then copied the files to the SD card with Windows. So I went back and tried again, but this time uncompressing and copying from Windows. Now I get the 003 next to the .bin files and after restarting the printer I have english and everything looks normal again. Whew!

Here is my before image where I unzipped in MacOS note the 001 next to .bin:

Here is the after image where I did everything in windows note the 003 now next to .bin:

Just a guess but two of the .bin files have chinese character filenames which when I extract with Mac I can see the chinese just fine, but in windows not so much. I'm guessing there is a UTF8 issue somewhere...

Anyway hopefully this helps someone...

@admin when you guys post firmware updates it might be helpful to not just look for "END!" but also check the numbers next to the file types to make sure all of the expected files are correctly downloaded to the board. And maybe make sure the filenames don't have Chinese or other characters if that is going to muck up the process.

Just an FYI this was my first firmware update so still learning @shinmai you pointed me in the right direction...thank you

@cweiss if you start the printer with the mainboard firmware updated but NOT the screen firmware then you'll only see Chinese language. I ran into that also. Now that screen firmware is properly updated I see english again and all is well.

@shinmai my numbers don't look exactly like yours but they are mostly non-zero. I looked at the contents of the DWIN_SET folder and there are 3 .bin files but my update screen only showed one. On my first attempt I uncompressed the zip file in MacOS and then copied the files to the SD card with Windows. So I went back and tried again, but this time uncompressing and copying from Windows. Now I get the 003 next to the .bin files and after restarting the printer I have english and everything looks normal again. Whew!

Here is my before image where I unzipped in MacOS note the 001 next to .bin:

Here is the after image where I did everything in windows note the 003 now next to .bin:

Just a guess but two of the .bin files have chinese character filenames which when I extract with Mac I can see the chinese just fine, but in windows not so much. I'm guessing there is a UTF8 issue somewhere...

Anyway hopefully this helps someone...

@admin when you guys post firmware updates it might be helpful to not just look for "END!" but also check the numbers next to the file types to make sure all of the expected files are correctly downloaded to the board. And maybe make sure the filenames don't have Chinese or other characters if that is going to muck up the process.

I've updated the main board successfully, and it appears that I've updated the display too (I get the END!) Did this both with 16GB card formatted 16GB FAT32 with 4096K blocks and with two 8GB partitions each formatted FAT32 4096k blocks. Seems to have worked both times, but in both cases after I boot everything back up no language is selected and no words shown, just icons. When I try to select a language as shown in the video the display seems to lock up...I cannot select anything and the touch screen becomes unresponsive. It otherwise seems to work ok....I can level the bed and print, just have to do it based on ICONs only. The only text that does show up is filenames when selecting something to print. Hopefully @admin see this and can help...

A couple of items to try/verify:

• Agree with @m1ck5k1 the site he recommends is awesome I've had very good luck with the gcode generated there and is very helpful if you are learning (this is my first 3D printer). Look for review by same author on youtube for CR-6 SE printer.
• Are you using the slicer software that came with the printer on the SD card? If yes, are you using the CR-6 SE profile that came with that software?
• Assuming you are using the PLA that came with the printer, make sure that the bed temp is 60 C and nozzle temp is 200 C when printing. These should be set correctly by the printer profile. This will ensure good adhesion to the bed (they stick so well I can't remove prints until bed cools) and good laydown of filament.
• Make sure you don't have a lot of air movement in the room where the printer is.
• My z offset is 0.20 which I believe is part of the printer profile. That has worked fine for me for many tens of successful prints.
• Make sure you have the SD card inserted when you do the bed leveling. I believe that when you run bed leveling the result is stored on and reloaded from the SD card. If that is working you should see something like EPROM.DAT on your SD card when you look at it on your computer.
• I still have questions about if the auto leveling mesh is automatically loaded when you start a print. There is some gcode that you can add to your startup gcode in CURA slicer to do this. Review the pages at the link mentioned above you will find details there.
• Make sure the stl files are flat on the bed in CURA slicer. I believe there is an option in there somewhere to make CURA do this automatically.

Even with all that I too get some random strings in my prints that I haven't totally figured out yet. However, out of the box with the included software/printer profile I have been pretty lucky with my prints. Even tough ones like print in place IRIS box have been successful.

Hope something here helps.

I'm new to all this also. The auto-leveling is not actually leveling the bed, but rather building a "mesh" that describes the contours of the bed. Once the mesh is determined it is in theory saved and reloaded when starting a print. Once loaded the nozzle will use the mesh to move in the z axis to account for the lack of flatness determined during auto leveling procedure, allowing the nozzle to follow the contours of the bed.

One of the questions I've had is if you need to load this mesh manually via a Restore Saved Mesh command in Gcode (M420 S1). Haven't figured that one out yet...I did add it to my startup gcode just in case it hasn't hurt anything yet.

Check out this site...not mine not related to it at all...but it has been quite helpful:

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

Today I pulled out the switch and checked the continuity with a meter and it checked out. Also not seeing any discoloration of wires etc and no smell. Switch does not light up when power is on. Checked the fuze for continuity too...also good. Put it back together and now it starts again. Started a print and after a couple of minutes it power cycled. It knew it was in the middle of a print and wanted to continue so I let it. However it knocked a piece loose so I had to stop. Trying the print again.

Something maybe related maybe not (I may submit this as separate post if it turns out the switch is not an issue). I have noticed that as I run more prints the glass heating and nozzle heating seem to follow different profiles. When I first got the printer both would go right to the commanded temp. But as I do more prints it seems to heat to close to the temp, then slow down or cool down some then continue to the commanded temp. During this heading the power supply fan would come on and cycle faster and then slower. I did a factory reset and then the heating behavior would go back to the way it was out of the box. However it is starting to go back to its old weird heating ways. Is there a heating profile saved also in the PROM that tries to find the best/more efficient power profile to complete the heating?

Question. Do you need to restore ABL mesh each time you print after doing initial leveling using gcode

M420 S1 ; restore ABL mesh

That is not in the default startup gcode for the CR-6 SE printer profile that is included in the Creality slicer software.

@ritchiedc just wondering if, when using the coated side, are you cleaning with alcohol after prints? I've been doing this every third or fourth print and so far everything has been sticking really well. Also my experience so far has been with the creality filament haven't tried anything else yet.

Just had this same problem. Selected a file in the controller and the whole printer turned off, and will not turn on. No electric smell, tried different plug and other obvious things as you did. I have not had the chance to look at the rocker switch but will check that out later today hopefully.

Wondering if you are using the software that came on the SD card? It has a profile for the CR-6 SE which has been working great with the white PLA that came with printer. 200C for printer and 60C for bed. It almost sounds like you downloaded software from website...which is what I did cause I didn't notice the toolbox drawer with the SD card. My first print was benchy with website software which didn't stick and after a few tries when it did was a stringy mess. Switched to software on SD card and print stuck to bed and came out great. Many successful prints after including iris box various emmett gear prints.

I'm using the filament that came with printer. Make sure you are using the software that came on the SD card that has the CR-6 SE printer profile, and make sure that it is setting the bed temperature to 60C when you are printing. I started out with the wrong printer profile that was setting bed temp to 40C and prints would fall off almost right away. With bed temp set to 60C things stick really well...to the point that I need to let the bed cool off a little otherwise it sticks so well that it is hard to remove.