Here is the PETG profile I'm currently fine tuning, and getting pretty reliable results: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jv1y9h60tp5yg85/CR6SE_PETG_Good_Quality.curaprofile?dl=0

Answer: plug in the USB cable (unless you have a CR-6 SE).

iPhone or iPad - no, they don't run a full OS.

Mac - no problem, just download Cura (and Repetier Host if desired, or Chitubox for MSLA), install, and connect the USB cable. I've been printing from MacOS since 2011-ish, and the only platform related problems I've had were due to bugs in some slicers, or one printer firmware that could only read Windows line endings for gcode.

If you have a CR-6 SE: then don't connect the USB cable, because you'll probably burn something, just use the SD card instead. Follow the CR-6 SE forums for fixes to the heatbed and how to isolate the 5V line on the USB cable to prevent damage to the printer or computer.

Underextrusion, or you have the wrong nozzle width set in your slicing program.

Answer: plug in the USB cable (unless you have a CR-6 SE).

iPhone or iPad - no, they don't run a full OS.

Mac - no problem, just download Cura (and Repetier Host if desired, or Chitubox for MSLA), install, and connect the USB cable. I've been printing from MacOS since 2011-ish, and the only platform related problems I've had were due to bugs in some slicers, or one printer firmware that could only read Windows line endings for gcode.

If you have a CR-6 SE: then don't connect the USB cable, because you'll probably burn something, just use the SD card instead. Follow the CR-6 SE forums for fixes to the heatbed and how to isolate the 5V line on the USB cable to prevent damage to the printer or computer.

Here is the PETG profile I'm currently fine tuning, and getting pretty reliable results: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jv1y9h60tp5yg85/CR6SE_PETG_Good_Quality.curaprofile?dl=0

Use dish detergent, NOT soap (which would leave a film on the bed and prevent adhesion).

And the abrasive on the bed will leave behind bits of a plastic scraper that need to be cleaned off frequently. Metal tweezers with force applied parallel to the bed (don't dig in) seem to work best.

For stuck large pieces of plastic - you could try more heat, or put the glass bed in the freezer for a while and the plastic should pop off (just remember to let the glass warm back to room temp for a while before putting it back on the printer).