Sounds that it could be an offset problem if the hot end is grabbing your prints.
Could maybe be a temperature issue with the hot bed too I guess?

Can you provide any more details around the issue?
What are the print temperatures you're using when running those prints?
Are you printing with PLA or some other material?

Can you try to re-calibrate the printer using the auto bed levelling function and check the manual offset?
You should be able to slide a paper under the extruder without much (or no) resistance or tugging on the paper from the print head. If the paper doesn't slide under the print head it might be too tight, thus you might have to increase the offset in the printer menu.

Not sure if my level of expertise will help in this case as I'm not really an advanced user in any sense.
It's also a bit hard to maybe judge from the picture what might be the root cause of the failed prints.

Have you tried any troubleshooting steps already with the printer? For example running the auto bed levelling and calibrated the offset again? I have seen other users in the forums complaining that they had to do this every print they made because of the offset was not saved between power cycles. Perhaps it's related to something like that?

Also, what version of the firmware are you using?
Are you printing from the SD-card or are do you have the printer hooked up to an external source? PC/raspberry pi or such?

Have you checked the belt tensions, and tightened everything to satisfaction? It's not uncommon that screws and bolts are a bit loose because of transportation of the equipment.

That cat I suppose is pre-sliced gcode already available on the SD-card? (I haven't checked my SD card actually)
Did you make some other changes when you sliced your phone holder? Supports, adhesion, print speeds, temperatures, etc etc?

Not sure if any of this is of any help, but at least you have some steps that you can check and elaborate on.

If you have the possibility it would also be nice if you could film the printer in action. It can give a bit more clues about the issue.

Personally I just taped over the 5V pin in the USB cable.
That did the trick for me. Currently using USB cable together with a RaspberryPi and OctoPrint.
No expensive additional hardware needed, and it doesn't break the USB cable.

Not sure why you made multiple topics for the same fault with different topic names.
Anyway... I posted some stuff in the other thread at https://forum.creality.com/topic/553/cr-6-se-seems-to-have-died
See if any of that works.

Cheers!

They were talking about a similar problem in a different thread: https://forum.creality.com/topic/436/cr-6-is-stuck-on-auto-home-please-wait-for-minutes

Seems like Jecook got it to work by pre-heating before hitting the auto-level. Weird bug if that works.
Perhaps it works for you too?

@Jecook said in cr-6 is stuck on "Auto home, please wait for minutes":

For auto-leveling, try pre-heating first. It sounds backwards, but that's what I did and it worked on mine at least.

Other than that, perhaps it helps to re-flash the firmware again?
Seems that admin suggests that for various other issues. Not sure if it will resolve this specific issue though.

Please download the firmware here：https://www.creality.com/download
and flash the firmware as the following tutorial
Mainboard firmware flash tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKIfwPgN0qs&feature=youtu.be
Screen Firmware Flash Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jswzrh2_ekk

Also, just to ask - Do you have any USB peripherals (Raspberry Pi, or other external equipment) hooked up to the USB port of the printer? You could try to disconnect that to see if it helps.

Here's another thread where they discuss auto bed leveling not working: https://forum.creality.com/topic/157/creality-cr-6-se-stuck-in-auto-leveling

Hope you can sort it out, and/or get a response from Creality officials.

If you're using OctoPrint together with your printer, you can do a quick version until such a feature might be ready in the firmware.

I'm not really much of a coder, so perhaps someone else can validate this or have other ideas, but in general I think this should work.
In OctoPrint there is a setting called "After Print Job is Cancelled"

Add this code:

G91 ;Use relative positioning for the XYZ axes
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract filament a bit before lifting nozzle at a speed of 2700 mm/min.
G0 Z10 F2400 ;Move Z axis up 10mm from current location at a speed of 2400 mm/min.
G90 ;Set to Absolute position
G1 X0 Y235 ;Present print
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

Hope this helps!

Did you check the drawer under the bed heater next to the display?
Those things you mentioned does not come in separate bags in the shipping box, but are neatly packed in that additional drawer under the printer.