@gminks No problem

You can update the firmware via cura if you can get the hex version of the Firmware to do that you need to install the serial emulation drivers that come on the SD card with the printer FTDI drivers then you can use the USB interface via cura for the firmware. I'm not sure is there is a source for the hex for the firmware on this model yet as the ones from Creatality are binary. If the SD card reader is taking down the machine I would look for bent pins I wouldn't think that's a firmware problem but since there are two comments about it who knows. I'll see if I can source the hex anywhere and post a link if I find it alternatively @admin might be able to help.

@shinmai its not uncommon to do this its been done for many years in the print industry. I agree it probably shouldn't be needed but it is a seal thats easily broken. In terms of heat there is no way that will cause a problem up there as is very clear of any hot zone otherwise filament would never make it to the nozzle but its advise you take it or leave it the strain gauge is super sensitive to adjustment.

It also looks like @shinmai may have a better grasp of this type of issue so that may be a better route to follow first.

@guivo its not something I have experienced although it maybe ironing thats enabled or over extrusion I would try disabling any finishing as that will keep the nozzle there longer.

Hi @STH there is a driver on the supplied SD card its a virtual serial connection the drivers are FTDI drivers if I remember correctly. These are typically for what's called online printing and require a print sever like prontoface or octoprint to use.

This looks like the bottom of the print? Slight warping can happen on the first layer. Cura if I remember correctly has a cool setting to adjust for that in Shell called initial layer horizontal expansion. I never remember that name so I search for elephants foot cracks me up that they added that as a search term.

@gminks First thing I would check is the diameter of the Filament to make sure its not being gripped by the Bowden tube that will reduce the extruder drive to nothing. Another thing worth looking at is your z offset make sure the nozzle isnt too low as that creates extra pressure in the nozzle. Print temps would be another one to check if the filament isnt melting fast enough it can cause issues (but this is less likely). Layer height will depend on what you happy with quality vs time wise, lower layer height better quality slower print times. For most things I print 0.3mm layer is perfect, I think most people I read use about 60mms retraction. Travel speed can be up to 150mms dependent on the filament and I only go there if the printer is calibrated nicely and all the tweaks to get it running nice are done. This is just my take so if anyone disagrees please chime in!

@guivo Weird but I don't tend to use their recommended temps they are usually pretty out against what works well. I don't think they do alot of printing themselves other than to test. So many rolls I've had where they promise 0.02-+ accuracy and they are +0.05 or 0.06 they have no idea of the issues it causes and I don't necessarily go cheap either.

@guivo 200-220 sounds like PLA+ which they do sell its possible its either accidentally that or that they used the wrong roll label. For most PETG suppliers I found the print ranges are always higher than what they actually print at. For me personally I aim for around 225 flows well good adhesion and quality. I suspect between models / hotends there will be a variance. Print speed can also factor. Some people swear by tempreture towers as well so thats an option.