Hey Yolanda, I have noticed that my aluminum bed is not very flat, neither is the Creality glass surface (the bottom of the glass is actually a little flatter than the top), I really like the magnetic flexible building surfaces but they aren't very flat either. When I print, even with the BL Touch doing a 25 spot leveling, the ends of the print may be smashed on the bed and the middle barely touching. Most of the time I use .2mm layers. Marlinfw.org shows how to do X and Y probe offsets with M851 and it can be done in uncompiled firmware but my printer doesn't acknowledge it either way, even after trying 3 different versions of firmware. I bought a new aluminum bed and it was more warped than the original. I have "flattened" the aluminum bed somewhat by putting paper shims between it and the flexible building surfaces, maybe that's the best I can do. I am a bit of a perfectionist, maybe that's the problem.

I did some more checking and without the offset the probe measures too close to the edge (and other places) which are higher or lower than where the nozzle is 44mm away. I uploaded a picture that shows the first layer where some places the nozzle is too close to the bed and there is almost no filament and other places where the nozzle is too high for the filament to adhere. There really is that much difference in a 44mm distance that the BL Touch cannot allow for unless the probe measures where the nozzle will be. I went back to the 1.1.6 firmware that only probes 9 locations instead of the 25 that 1.1.9 does and it is an improvement (but I wish it could be better) which means it just happens to probe where the height 44mm away is close to the same as where the nozzle is.

Hey Yolanda, I have noticed that my aluminum bed is not very flat, neither is the Creality glass surface (the bottom of the glass is actually a little flatter than the top), I really like the magnetic flexible building surfaces but they aren't very flat either. When I print, even with the BL Touch doing a 25 spot leveling, the ends of the print may be smashed on the bed and the middle barely touching. Most of the time I use .2mm layers. Marlinfw.org shows how to do X and Y probe offsets with M851 and it can be done in uncompiled firmware but my printer doesn't acknowledge it either way, even after trying 3 different versions of firmware. I bought a new aluminum bed and it was more warped than the original. I have "flattened" the aluminum bed somewhat by putting paper shims between it and the flexible building surfaces, maybe that's the best I can do. I am a bit of a perfectionist, maybe that's the problem.

I recently installed a BL Touch on my Ender 3. I wish I had done it sooner but I have a couple of questions. I am not able to set the X and Y offsets for leveling, there are no settings for these on the printer itself, only for the Z offset. I have sent M851 X-44 Y-7 and M500 commands to the printer and the reply is only OK, Z-2.92 and no offset when I level. I have put the same commands in the Gcode of a print and still no offset. I have tried different versions of Marlin and got the same results. Could it be that either Marlin or my printer can't do it? I am still using the 8 bit board, I tried three of the 4.2.7 boards and they all froze while printing so I went back to the original board.
Another question, if I run the leveling will it remain in affect for multiple prints as long as I don't turn the printer off or do I need to do it when I start every print? It takes almost 6 minutes due to checking 25 points, I could go back to older firmware that only checks 9 points.

I have had my Ender 3 for quite a few months and have made hundreds of prints, mostly successful. I have also made many upgrades and I have to say the first one I should have done was going to a 3 point leveling system. Basic geometry tells us that 3 points define a plane and more points are not only useless but make things more difficult. With the 4 point system every time I adjusted one point it would move the other points also and took a lot of fiddling back and forth to get them all the same, sometimes with one so loose the knob would work it's way off while printing. With 3 points all it takes is one adjustment at each point and you are done. It is also more stable and now I do not have any reason to need an auto leveler.

Is the filament runout connection on the silent 1.1.5 silent board come active or does it require more firmware? Are the 2 sensor pins normally open and close when the filament runs out?

I installed the new quiet board (1.1.5-4.2.7 and says Ender 3 Pro) in my Ender 3 and it really is quiet. The problem I'm having is that the hot end temperature constantly swings 4-5 degrees above and below the set temperature and won't hold steady. Most of the time it won't start printing, just says "extruder heating", I have to fool it by preheating 20 degrees higher than the printing degrees then lowering the degrees after it auto homes when told to print. Amazon sent me a replacement board and it does the same thing.