@ncbob everything is working fine including being able to save everything on EEPROM.
If anyone wants to compile it and is having trouble let me know and we can do a zoom meeting and I’ll help you troubleshoot it.
@S7EN Ok, now that I FINALLY got a working motherboard from Creality after 3 1/2 weeks my printer is running, and I found the reason to update the firmware to this version.
In the stock firmware it comes with the EEPROM is not enabled so you have to do leveling, PID tuning etc every time you power the machine off and on or reset things.
I'm uploading it and doing some testing, then I'll post that it's working for me or not.
I've been waiting three weeks so far, and all they keep doing is sending me the same email asking for the same information over and over.
I'm about ready to gut the machine get a different controller board so I have a working printer, and NEVER EVER buy a creality product again, nor will I ever recommend it to someone ever again.
@S7EN honestly I’m not sure what they changed, I do like that I can make my own changes if needed and see what they have done and how things are configured. I mostly did it to try and get my printer working, mine is one where the steppers won’t move.
Now when I try to home it doesn’t halt anymore, but it still doesn’t work.
I was finally able to compile the 220.127.116.11. version of the firmware.
These are the changes I made to platformio.ini file
I added this line:
board_build.core = maple
to the [env:STM32F1_base] section
I had to comment out this line:
in the [common] section
Going to get a small 8gb sd card and then try to flash it and see if it fixes anything.
How are you installing in, are you putting the magnetic sheet on the glass plate, or are you removing the sheet and the hold downs and putting it directly on the bed.
Also I really honestly don't like the surface, it's so rough and that's going to make the prints be rough as well on the bottom. I'm honestly probably going to get another build sheet from Wham Bam, I have them on all my other printers.
Ok, just wanted to update on what I did. I took the glass bed off and put the magnetic sheet right on the aluminum bed. I left the clips on in the back, and the rotating clamps in the front.
Turns out the clips in the back make it very easy to put the metal build sheet on, you can slide it against the clips then drop it down and it's lined up, then you can just rotate the clamps back in place (it won't get hit in a print because it's out of range of the print head).
The one issue I ran into is that the optical sensor was triggering too early because the glass bed isn't there. For now I put electrical tape over the sensor, but I'm going to make an adjustable trigger tab that goes on the x gantry and then adjust it so that it triggers properly. That way I still have the failsafe of the optical endstop.
My other concern about the rough surface is unfounded. The plastic will lay down on the high spots and it doesn't get down into the low spots of the PEI sheet, so it actually surprisingly works quite well.
@Shortlid It depends on which printer, and which board it has.
@Daverobbo1904 Ok bad news, it won't work on the CR-6 SE because it doesn't have an LCD so I can't enable to advanced pause feature which gives M600 functionality.
It works on the Ender 3 V2 because the display is defined as an LCD display.
I'm going to play with it some more and see if I can disable the check for an LCD display, or maybe add a dummy LCD display.
This youtube channel is awesome: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw
His name is Michael and he does all sorts of videos and reviews about 3d printers, including a really nice calibration suite on a website he hosts. He also has a patreon so if you find his videos helpful you can either make a donation or subscribe to his patreon.
On top of the excellent videos he is a really nice guy and has setup a community of his users who can help each other, and he'll jump in if he has the bandwidth to help out.
Definitely check it out.
Ok I may have figured out how to do it without an LCD. Thanks to Teaching Tech who explained how to do it with an LCD even though you can't see the prompts.
Once you have firmware installed that supports M600 (there are a few other things you have to turn on to enable it that I was not aware kept it from working) then when it encounters the M600 the printer will pause and park the print head. Then you can heat up the nozzle manually and change the filament, then in the LCD menu you can click on 'Resume Print' and it will continue where it stopped.
I'm installing a BL Touch and a Filament runout sensor on my Ender 3 V2, and I'll verify it all. Then I'll try it on the CR-6 SE (it's currently printing the runout sensor to mount on the ender 3 V2) and verify that it works after I've flashed the firmware with all the settings.
I'll then post some documentation on what to update in the firmware, and I'll post a pre-compiled bin with the EEPROM enabled and the M600 command and the other options it needs to enable it.
@samberr74 Awesome, I know someone else who is in Winston Salem and another guy who is in Burlington. Winston Salem is new to printers and has a CR-10, my friend in Burlington has been doing it longer than I have and has his own printer farm
We need to have a Reprap gathering in the Triad and invite everyone around here to come
@Vagabond its turned on in the LCD menu under ‘Control’ and there’s a toggle option for the LED
Thanks for supporting Creality, we are trying our best to support our customers. For the motherboard issue, after checked, we will send a new to customers. So we know that.
If you have further questions, please feel free to contact us, we will help to solve it.
Thank you for proving how terrible your support is, you didn’t read my post just like you didn’t read any of my emails. I’ve already gotten a better response form BIQU about their Kickstarter and mentioning how they’ve seen all the problems with how creality handled it and they are learning from it.
@mslucas Not a stupid question, it's hard to tell sometimes. The Ender 3 V2 comes default with a .4 mm nozzle.