Hi there,
I've got a CR10 Max and did the E3D Hemera upgrade. Can't be happier, it is also compatible with the ender series and it's a really good direct drive and all metal hotend extruder combo.
Hi there,
I've got a CR10 Max and did the E3D Hemera upgrade. Can't be happier, it is also compatible with the ender series and it's a really good direct drive and all metal hotend extruder combo.
check that the "eco" function is turned off, this will turn off the bed after some time to conserve power.
@eric Nozzle temp is definitely an issue, increase to at least 230, bed on 70 should be good, fan off for first 4 layers and on 100% for the rest of the print. Try that first before adjusting z-offset.
@Trubritar I also have a CR-10 Max and had some issues with z axis and leveling, but not the same as yours, however after loading the Tiny Machines firmware on the mainboard and LCD it solved all my issues, as a bonus you also have the option to manually adjust the z-offset from the menu with the TM firmware.
You will need to process the STL file as it is the file format for the 3D model, however when you want to print the model it needs to be Sliced(processed) first for your printer to be able to use it. If you are printing on a LD-002R the best would be to install Citubox on your PC, you can then import the STL or other 3D models into the software. From there you can adjust exposure times, supports etc. Then you Slice the model and save it to your flash-drive, insert that into the printer, go to print and go to the file you just saved, it should start printing as soon as you hit the play button.
Hope that helps
I've found that sometimes you can benefit from having the nozzle a bit closer to the bed with PETG and further away with TPU or PLA, so for that reason I actually like having it as an option.
I have been using Monocure Rapid with a 7sec exposure time and I've only had great results.
I generally have better results with PETG than PLA on my CR-10 Max, however after some issues I did find that PETG sometimes needs a different z-offset than PLA and I also print with a bed temp of 70c with just some Magigoo applied to the bed.
Hope that helps.
Hi there, I had exactly the same issue and managed to fix it quite simply...
Just open the side panel and check the cables connecting on the board, there is a bigger grey one for the front screen and a thinner black one for the printing screen. Make sure the black cable is in its socket correctly and stick it down with some duct tape just to be sure.
Hope that solves your issue.