@tyoc213 That post is about updating the LCD firmware, your video is for flashing the 8-bit mobo.
If you're updating the LCD, and the card is small enough to format directly to 4K sectors (like your 8gig card should be), format to FAT32 w/ 4k sectors, copy the files on the card, put card in the LCD card reader and power on the printer. Here's a video for the Ender 3 V2 showing the physical procedure, the display output is different, matching the post you quoted, and the PCB layout is different, but the actual procedure is the same.

If you're updating the 8-bit mobo, you seem to just need to get a serial connection to the printer working, which would be different for a Mac (but likely won't have the same driver issues tha the video is bypassing on Windows) but other than that the procedure would be the same, but note this thread is about the 32-bit firmware, that will not work on the 8-bit mobo.

There already is a repo, Creality just doesn't ever use it.

Judging by how they keep releasing and deleting the firmware updates, and keep not releasing the source code in direct violation of the Marlin license, I'm not holding my breath on them adopting proper source code management and using the github issue tracker.
But we can hope

@jaimieb said in CR6 best practices:

Hi - I am new to home 3D printing (but experienced with pro Stratasys systems).

Luckily the same FDM/FFF principles apply, so other than not having the printer do a lot of things for you, the actual processes are practically the same.

Can anyone point me and others as to how to actually use this printer successfully and consistently?

I've been having good success using the standard profiles in Cura for slicing settings (tweaking as approrpiate to the model of course. here, again, expreience with professional 3d printing systems is 100% transferrable). I've only had a handful of failed prints. Remember that with hobbyist grade printers like these, you'll always have to expect some failed prints. Settings are highly dependant on the individual model being printed, and you should look at what caused that particular print to fail and adjust settings accordingly.

How to prepare the glass base before each print (or clean up after a print)? (There is contradictory info from Creality about this - e.g. alcohol or no? )

Since there IS contradictory info on this, I'd err on the safe side and avoid using alcohol. Soap and warm water should be enough to get any grease or dust from the bed that'd hinder adhesion.

What is the best practice after a print? Do you just leave the filament in the nozzle?

If you're using the default ending Gcode, it'll retract the filament while it moves the hotend away from the print, so it should at that point be beyond the heat break and not contribute to clogging things up. Our apartment needs 24/7 humidifying, making our room air kind of humid, so personally I like to remove any filament from the printer whenever it's not in use and store it away in it's dry storage, so I always pop the roll of the printer. This is more down to personal preference, though. If you're worried about clogging the nozzle, but want to leave the spool on the printer, just pull it back a small amount, so that you see the end inside the bowden tube for instance, that way you'll know it's out of the hotend, but you don't have to go through feeding it through the sensor and into the extruder the next time.

Or do you purge it each time, and if so how? The display button to feed filament does not seem to work, so how best to remove filament each time?

I honestly never used the feed buttons so had no idea they don't work. This, again, should be almost completely similar to a professional FDM system. To purge, you heat up the hotend to a temperature at or some amount higher than the printing temperature for the material, then manually push some filament through the hotend, then fairly quickly but steadily retract it out (quickly enough to hopefully get most of it out of the nozzle, but not too quick to stretch the hot part of the filament to separate, leaving a glob of it in the nozzle). To manually move the filament you'll obviously need to disengage the extruders tension arm.

Are you supposed to do a cooldown with the fan or can just switch it off?

The part cooling fan doesn't do much to cool the bed, and technically shouldn't really cool the hotend either. But the hotend has it's own fan, and I'd let that cool the hotend to some reasonable temperatuer before shutting the printer off.
Personally I tend to leave the printer on until it's fully cool, just to monitor it as it goes and also to see when it's cool enough to try and remove the print from the bed, but again this is just a personal preference of mine.

I was not aware that I needed infinite troubleshooting time and/or ample experience with DIY-style equipment to use this machine.

You need a DIY mindset to work with hobbyist/DIY tools, the only way around that is to move to prosumer or professional equipment, unfortunately. There's a reason why an Ender 3 is $180, an Ultimaker is several thousands and a Stratasys is tens of thousands.

If you haven't yet, clean your extruder gear.
If the teeth of the gear are full of plastic, it won't grip the filament and will just grind it more.
You can adjust the extruder tension with the screw next to the spring. If the spring is worn down (as they do over time) and the screw is already at or close to full tension, you can purchase or print a small spacer to put between the spring and the extruder body to compress the spring more and get some more action to the tension screw.

If you get your other settings tuned in, you should be able to tune down retraction to 3-4mm, retraction speed depends on the material you're printing. Layer height depends on what you want to do. Thicker layers are stronger, and print faster, but obviously have less Z-resolution, so introduce artifacts in curves and loss of detail.

Any idea if anything else has been changed? I'm interested to see when, if ever, the bug with cancelling prints will be addressed.
Not going to change from my custom build of the community FW anytime soon, there are so many improvements not present in the official one, but just interested to see how long it takes Creality to address something so trivial.

There's a community firmware project on GitHub, with semi-regular releases.
If you want custom builds, there are decent instructions for compiling a custom version, too.

The Creality account has been MIA for a bit now, you're probably better of tagging the account called "admin", although they, too, seem to be very selective as to which users to reply to and assist

@spauliszyn said in Noisy Fans:

It does seem to get quieter after some time (after it warms up?)

This might also be an issue with running the fan at anything but full speed. Some slicers turn the fan to full immediately on layer 2 by default (S3D for instance) others ramp it ump from layer 2 to some layer (Cura does 4 by default, I believe) and some fans just make an absolutely AWFUL noise when you try to control their speed with PWM (also depending on HOW you PWM them, annoyingly).

I might very well change my mind about how noisy the part cooling fan is, after I upgrade the fans on the PSU and control board The motors are so quiet compared to my old Printrbot that for the first time I actually care about trying to make my printer quieter But for now the biggest noise comes from the base and from the X-gantry belt rubbing against the extrusion (I REALLY wish there was an easy way to fix that, but I haven't found anything).

@admin said in CR-6 SE FIRMWARE:

please download it by yourself

Well we're doing everything else by ourselves with this printer, why do things any different with the FW?

@tyoc213 said in Configuring slic3r???:

What do I put in the ???
Flavour of gcode???

Marlin

Size

The bed size, 235 x 235

Nozzle diameter?

Your nozzle diameter, unsurprisingly. 0.4mm is common, but put whatever you have on there.

Filament diameter

See above. 1.75mm unless you've changed extruders/hotends.

Extrusion temperature?

Depends on your material. Like it says on screen, 160-230°C for PLA is good. I'm running 210 degrees centigrade for my Octofiber PLA.

Bed temperature?

See above. Again, as the screen says, 60°C for PLA is a good rule of thumb. Personally running at 55 degrees centigrade for the Octofiber filament, but depends on your material.

You should be able to just run one retraction tower to figure out a good baseline for retraction, then tweak as needed for different models.

These are all dependent on the material, the model and what is wanted from the final part. There are no singular Best Slicer Settings for any printer accross all filaments and models that produce the bets looking, strongest and fastest printing parts.

Retraction and temperature settings also vary between individual printers, and are things you should calibrate for your own machine with test models like temperature towers and stringing tests.

Lower layer height (and extrusion width) gives more detail to the print, and better surface quality, but higher layers and slightly wider extrusion will result in physically stronger results if printing things like braces, supports or mounts. Retraction reduces stringing, but lower retraction reduces heat creep for high temp materials and reduces zits and blobs.
Higher speeds result in faster print times, but increase the visibility of side-effects of the kinematic system like ghosting and ringing. For all settings there are trade-offs, and Cura actually does a decent job of describing these for most settings, if you mouse over them in the settings editor. There are also countless write-ups and video tutorials online for tuning both printer and slicer settings.

@s-vise said in is that possible to print without bottom layer?:

as everyone knows the first layor is not a part of the printing it made just to make sure the will stay connected to the bed

wait what?

Why are some of the prices so much higher than on vip.creality.com? Carborundum Glass Platform, and replacement LCD are both like twice the price.

And does it home to the front left corner, or the center of the bed?

Not sure about PrusaSlicer, in Cura it's under Machine Settings:

In OctoPrint it should be in the printer profile under "Print bed & build volume"

I'm not sure, but it looks like you've got either the origin or the home position in PusaSlicer and OctoPrint set to different positions. Or possibly OctoPrint set to different origin from the firmware.

You can, but last time I checked they didn't have magnet bed kits in the right size for the CR-6 SE yet, but if you don't mind it being slightly smaller than the original glass, you can just tack it on. Some people have glued the spring metal plate on their glass, too.
There are 3rd party flexplate solutions sized for the CR-6 SE already, so those are another option, if you don't mind not going with a Creality branded product.

If it's the same material of glass bed as the CR-6, it's not recommended to clean it with alcohol. But any glass bed should be easily cleaned with warm water and soap, anyway, it's just more convenient using IPA or window washing spray, but that apparently ruins the coating on the Creality glass beds.

You didn't really post any of your requirements, needs, use cases or basically any helpful information to respond to, so the responses probably won't be super specific to your situation.
As an owner of a CR-6, I'd probably go for a CR-10. A V2 with an added BL Touch is a tad more expensive, but can be easily modified to direct-drive, has a larger build volume, has a standard Marlin LCD, and has a ton of community support in the form of upgrades and mods, compared to the CR-6.