Any idea if anything else has been changed? I'm interested to see when, if ever, the bug with cancelling prints will be addressed.
Not going to change from my custom build of the community FW anytime soon, there are so many improvements not present in the official one, but just interested to see how long it takes Creality to address something so trivial.

There's a community firmware project on GitHub, with semi-regular releases.
If you want custom builds, there are decent instructions for compiling a custom version, too.

The Creality account has been MIA for a bit now, you're probably better of tagging the account called "admin", although they, too, seem to be very selective as to which users to reply to and assist

@spauliszyn said in Noisy Fans:

It does seem to get quieter after some time (after it warms up?)

This might also be an issue with running the fan at anything but full speed. Some slicers turn the fan to full immediately on layer 2 by default (S3D for instance) others ramp it ump from layer 2 to some layer (Cura does 4 by default, I believe) and some fans just make an absolutely AWFUL noise when you try to control their speed with PWM (also depending on HOW you PWM them, annoyingly).

I might very well change my mind about how noisy the part cooling fan is, after I upgrade the fans on the PSU and control board The motors are so quiet compared to my old Printrbot that for the first time I actually care about trying to make my printer quieter But for now the biggest noise comes from the base and from the X-gantry belt rubbing against the extrusion (I REALLY wish there was an easy way to fix that, but I haven't found anything).

@admin said in CR-6 SE FIRMWARE:

please download it by yourself

Well we're doing everything else by ourselves with this printer, why do things any different with the FW?

@tyoc213 said in Configuring slic3r???:

What do I put in the ???
Flavour of gcode???

Marlin

Size

The bed size, 235 x 235

Nozzle diameter?

Your nozzle diameter, unsurprisingly. 0.4mm is common, but put whatever you have on there.

Filament diameter

See above. 1.75mm unless you've changed extruders/hotends.

Extrusion temperature?

Depends on your material. Like it says on screen, 160-230°C for PLA is good. I'm running 210 degrees centigrade for my Octofiber PLA.

Bed temperature?

See above. Again, as the screen says, 60°C for PLA is a good rule of thumb. Personally running at 55 degrees centigrade for the Octofiber filament, but depends on your material.

@tyoc213 That post is about updating the LCD firmware, your video is for flashing the 8-bit mobo.
If you're updating the LCD, and the card is small enough to format directly to 4K sectors (like your 8gig card should be), format to FAT32 w/ 4k sectors, copy the files on the card, put card in the LCD card reader and power on the printer. Here's a video for the Ender 3 V2 showing the physical procedure, the display output is different, matching the post you quoted, and the PCB layout is different, but the actual procedure is the same.

If you're updating the 8-bit mobo, you seem to just need to get a serial connection to the printer working, which would be different for a Mac (but likely won't have the same driver issues tha the video is bypassing on Windows) but other than that the procedure would be the same, but note this thread is about the 32-bit firmware, that will not work on the 8-bit mobo.

@jaimieb said in CR6 best practices:

Hi - I am new to home 3D printing (but experienced with pro Stratasys systems).

Luckily the same FDM/FFF principles apply, so other than not having the printer do a lot of things for you, the actual processes are practically the same.

Can anyone point me and others as to how to actually use this printer successfully and consistently?

I've been having good success using the standard profiles in Cura for slicing settings (tweaking as approrpiate to the model of course. here, again, expreience with professional 3d printing systems is 100% transferrable). I've only had a handful of failed prints. Remember that with hobbyist grade printers like these, you'll always have to expect some failed prints. Settings are highly dependant on the individual model being printed, and you should look at what caused that particular print to fail and adjust settings accordingly.

How to prepare the glass base before each print (or clean up after a print)? (There is contradictory info from Creality about this - e.g. alcohol or no? )

Since there IS contradictory info on this, I'd err on the safe side and avoid using alcohol. Soap and warm water should be enough to get any grease or dust from the bed that'd hinder adhesion.

What is the best practice after a print? Do you just leave the filament in the nozzle?

If you're using the default ending Gcode, it'll retract the filament while it moves the hotend away from the print, so it should at that point be beyond the heat break and not contribute to clogging things up. Our apartment needs 24/7 humidifying, making our room air kind of humid, so personally I like to remove any filament from the printer whenever it's not in use and store it away in it's dry storage, so I always pop the roll of the printer. This is more down to personal preference, though. If you're worried about clogging the nozzle, but want to leave the spool on the printer, just pull it back a small amount, so that you see the end inside the bowden tube for instance, that way you'll know it's out of the hotend, but you don't have to go through feeding it through the sensor and into the extruder the next time.

Or do you purge it each time, and if so how? The display button to feed filament does not seem to work, so how best to remove filament each time?

I honestly never used the feed buttons so had no idea they don't work. This, again, should be almost completely similar to a professional FDM system. To purge, you heat up the hotend to a temperature at or some amount higher than the printing temperature for the material, then manually push some filament through the hotend, then fairly quickly but steadily retract it out (quickly enough to hopefully get most of it out of the nozzle, but not too quick to stretch the hot part of the filament to separate, leaving a glob of it in the nozzle). To manually move the filament you'll obviously need to disengage the extruders tension arm.

Are you supposed to do a cooldown with the fan or can just switch it off?

The part cooling fan doesn't do much to cool the bed, and technically shouldn't really cool the hotend either. But the hotend has it's own fan, and I'd let that cool the hotend to some reasonable temperatuer before shutting the printer off.
Personally I tend to leave the printer on until it's fully cool, just to monitor it as it goes and also to see when it's cool enough to try and remove the print from the bed, but again this is just a personal preference of mine.

I was not aware that I needed infinite troubleshooting time and/or ample experience with DIY-style equipment to use this machine.

You need a DIY mindset to work with hobbyist/DIY tools, the only way around that is to move to prosumer or professional equipment, unfortunately. There's a reason why an Ender 3 is $180, an Ultimaker is several thousands and a Stratasys is tens of thousands.

First thing I'd check is the fuse on the power switch.
The power switch isn't properly rated and can't really handle the inrush current of the PSU turning on, and unless you're one of the lucky ones to have an updated switch, it's more than likely to eventually fail. The fuse often doesn't burn even if the switch fries, so check the switch, too.
If you don't mind paying out of your own pocket, replacement switches are easy to find and relatively cheap (a few dollars). I'd personally go for a switch rated at least 16A @ 240VAC. The inrush current of the PSU is 60A, which you're unlikely to find a fitting switch rated at, but you don't need to, something even a little beefier and slightly higher quality than the stock switch should last a long time.

If that isn't it, and you have a multi-meter, CAREFULLY measure the voltages on the PSU to see if it's pushing out 24V as expected. If not, your PSU is likely busted.

If it is putting out the correct voltage, it's likely your motherboard, which you can also check with a multi-meter. There IS a fuse on the motherboard, too, but in practice boards have literally fried, as in vaporised the fiberglass around the copper traces, without the fuse burning, so you can check the fuse, but it won't tell you much.

That's at least something to do while waiting on Creality ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

What do I need to do to get this fixed or get some help?

A lot of patience and some luck, tbh.

The CR-6 LCD isn't using a standard Marlin implementation and is missing a lot of the features there. M117 is unfortunately one of the gcodes not supported on the official firmware.

Hate to soudn like Creality, but any chance of providing a video?

Other than that, make sure that everything on the printer is tightened down properly, but not too tight. Does the printer make unusual sounds during travel moves? With the steppers off, do the bed and the hotend move smoothly without much effort?

Did you also update the LCD firmware? You need to update both for a lot of the menus to work with the new FW.

8GB should work, too, just make sure to format the disk with 4K sector size

Welp, 2.0.1.2 is back, this time with release notes.

yep that sure is the exact link I posted yesterday

Just from the way ABL works on the printer, the Z-offset setting should map basically 1:1 to the actual distance from nozzle to bed, so unless you're using some corrugated card-board for paper-testing, either something is physically wrong or there's an error in the ABL related settings.

Is your hotend mounted right, or is it loose/too low? Alternatively, is there slack in your bed? If it has some movbement and tilts when pressed, and your strain gague threshold is high-ish, ABL could conceivably measure the bed to be way lower than it's actually mounted.
When you auto-level, the nozzle just lightly touches the surface twice, as expected, right? I've seen some videos people's CR-6 absolutely ramming the nozzle into the glass and them thinking nothing of it

A factory-reset couldn't hurt, either, I guess.

Those ARE the FFFs those files were sliced with, including the start and end gcodes. That's how S3D works.
If you import the FFF from the gcode file and slice the same model with the profile S3D created, you'll get a virtually identical sliced gcode file (it won't be 1:1 since the Creality gcode has been sliced with such an old version of S3D).

Oh, btw, did you try taking out the nozzle with the hotend at temperatures, or did you do it cold? The Creality videos seem to all do it cold, but I'd be worried about trying that, never swapped nozzles on a hotend cold on any other printer.