The problem is that the Creality printer controller is connected to the 5V supply in your wifi box, but there probably isn't enough power available to properly power the 3D printer (i.e. controller + heaters + motors).
A simple solution is to cut the 5V wire in the USB cable. See my post: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/3d-printer-isolating-usb-5volt-feed.html
@Yolanda Yes, multi-colour printing is a great way to make your models more visually interesting, even on a 3D printer with only a single nozzle extruder:-
How to:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/multicolour-printing-on-creality-cr-10.html
Its also quite easy to create your own 3D signs & name plates using FreeCAD:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/starting-freecad-making-name-plates.html
@Aeroxx_creative
Although you can't import the gCode, you can open the file using a 'text editor' and read the header and/or translate the gcode instructions.
These are just a few extracts from the Cat gCode:-
; printMaterial,PLA
; printQuality,High
...
; layerHeight,0.1
; useRaft,1
...
; infillPercentage,15
M140 S45 ;bed temp =45'C
M190 S45
M104 S200 T0 ;nozzle temp = 200'C
I hope this helps.
@bill345 For the first few months of using my CR-10-V3 (with glass bed) I used methylated spirits, which was good for removing contaminants, but also left a slight residue.
I bought some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol 99.9% Pure IPA) about 2 months ago and I've only needed to use it twice. Once you have de-greased and cleaned with this stuff, you can just print & print & print (...as long as you keep your fingers off the bed!).
Firmware Upgrades; it seems to me that a very large percentage of questions on this forum concern problems following attempted upgrades. Just leave your printer as it is and print, print, print! That's what it is for!
Although I was given a BLTouch, I have absolutely no intention of fitting it. Its not difficult to level your bed, and once its done, leave it alone and just print. Only go back and fiddle with it if you are getting problems. I can't talk about all Creality printers, but my CR-10 seems very stable, and doesn't need continual tweaking.
@Expee If its a new printer and has been working OK for the last few weeks, do not use glue or any other kind of layer on your bed. Basically, if it wasn't necessary during the last few weeks, it shouldn't be necessary now!
The bed may need cleaning, especially if you have been touching it with your fingers. This is best done using a small amount of Isopropyl Alcohol (99.9% Pure IPA) with a clean cloth. When the printer is not in use, cover the bed to stop the build up of dust, and/or gently wipe the bed with a clean cloth before use (...don't wipe the surface with your hands!).
If you have been printing with the same filament for the last couple of weeks, and have left the filament on the printer between prints, it may have absorbed moisture from the air. This may affect its performance & ability to stick. I suggest you invest in a cheap digital hydrometer. Keep an eye on the relative humidity and avoid leaving filament reels out if the RH is greater than (say) 50%.
Silica gel is great for storing filament, but it is not a magic solution; every time you take out a filament reel and subsequently put it back into a storage bag, you change the air in the bag. The silica gel then very slowly absorbs some of the moisture, as long as the silica gel is not saturated.
Check and clean the outside of the nozzle to ensure that as plastic is extruded, it is not sticking to the nozzle. Also make sure that there is not a bead of plastic on the tip, as this will give you problems when trying to level the bed.
Investigate non-stick problems by printing small objects (i.e. those that can be printed in a short time; say, <20mins). Do these test prints near one of the front corners of the machine; this is because it is easier to make adjustments to the leveling on one corner than it is when you print in the centre of the bed. If you can get it to stick in a corner, you should be able to fully level the bed and then it should stick in the centre (...actually, I don't print anything in the centre of the bed, unless it is a very large object).
I hope this helps.
@Yolanda Yes, multi-colour printing is a great way to make your models more visually interesting, even on a 3D printer with only a single nozzle extruder:-
How to:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/multicolour-printing-on-creality-cr-10.html
Its also quite easy to create your own 3D signs & name plates using FreeCAD:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/starting-freecad-making-name-plates.html
@Gracy said in Solutions for stringings:
Hi, @SteveDee for Creality Direct Drive Extruder models, The recommended retraction distance (also called retraction length) in Creality is 8mm.
Oh, thanks for that. I'd read somewhere that for direct drives it should be around 2mm, which is what I'm currently using...so now I'm confused!
I thought the argument for a small retraction on direct drive was because the extruder is mounted nice and close to the nozzle, so its operating characteristics are going to be very different to that of a CR-10 with a Bowden assembly.
@jaytonix I had a similar problem with blobs a few weeks after I started using my new CR-10 V3. Having tried everything I could think of with no success, I eventually replaced the nozzle with a spare. This solved the problem.
I think some filament was collecting/sticking around the end of the nozzle, which was then randomly dumped on the print below. The original nozzle had developed a flat end: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/04/3d-printing-time-to-replace-nozzle.html
@Gracy said in Solutions for stringings:
1.Retraction distance.
Retraction distance determines how much filament is pulled out of the nozzle. In general, the more filament retracted from the nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to ooze while moving.The normal retraction distance is set at 6-10mm ( the more specific value depends on the characteristic of filaments）
Surely this setting range is too high for Creality Direct Drive Extruder models?
@BaDboD said in Solutions for bed adhesion:
Avoid glues, they can help but...
...But generally, if you need glue then something else is wrong.BaDboD
I agree, I don't use any glue, spray, tape or whatever.
But it is important to 'de-grease' the bed, and then keep your fingers off it!
Every few weeks I wipe the bed using Isopropyl Alcohol (99,9% IPA). I cover the bed when not in use, and I use a dry clean cloth to remove any surface dust just before use.
@MrPresident said in Sound output:
I would like to give sound when a print has finished.... A simple beep will be quit ok. I know about M300 P300 S4000, but it does not work on my CR-6 SE.
Is there anyone who has more information, does my CR-6 SE support sound at all?
I don't know if your machine has some kind of speaker/sounder. But if it does, take a look at my notes: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/my-bleepin-3d-printer.html
Even I´m looking for a script for Cura that allows me changing the colour. I found someone, but there is any information about the time when to change the colour, it´s very annoying. Therefor I would like to play a sound reminds me changing the colour....
The Cura Filament Change script should do what you want, and even 'beep' (...so long as your system has a speaker/sounder). http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/multicolour-printing-on-creality-cr-10.html
@jaystoys12 said in CR6-SE not properly extruding.:
...and the filament ended up breaking and getting stuck in the tube, extruder, and nozzle....
I'm interested that you say the filament broke, although you don't say what type you were using.
With 'fresh' PLA you should be able to bend the filament into a reasonable curve. But if it breaks when you try this, it probably means your filament has become very brittle and will be very difficult to use.
Under normal conditions, with good/new PLA filament, I would not expect it to break.
@bill345 said in Ender3 v2 Glass Bed Cleaning & Firmware Upgrade ?:
...Just one more question, noticed that the V2 Meanwell psu has a fan outlet but the Enders black outer metal case plate covers over the air inlet slots on the Meanwells box...
Well it depends. If the power supply is over-rated for this application, and the design team have done proper environmental testing with this arrangement (e.g. run the equipment in a chamber for a period of time with the ambient/chamber temperature set to, say, +40'C) then this may be fine.
But I don't know how well this current generation of hardware designers test their designs...
...OK, I admit it, I'm an old retired Engineer.