The problem is that the Creality printer controller is connected to the 5V supply in your wifi box, but there probably isn't enough power available to properly power the 3D printer (i.e. controller + heaters + motors).
A simple solution is to cut the 5V wire in the USB cable. See my post: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/3d-printer-isolating-usb-5volt-feed.html
@Yolanda Yes, multi-colour printing is a great way to make your models more visually interesting, even on a 3D printer with only a single nozzle extruder:-
How to:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/multicolour-printing-on-creality-cr-10.html
Its also quite easy to create your own 3D signs & name plates using FreeCAD:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/starting-freecad-making-name-plates.html
@Aeroxx_creative
Although you can't import the gCode, you can open the file using a 'text editor' and read the header and/or translate the gcode instructions.
These are just a few extracts from the Cat gCode:-
; printMaterial,PLA
; printQuality,High
...
; layerHeight,0.1
; useRaft,1
...
; infillPercentage,15
M140 S45 ;bed temp =45'C
M190 S45
M104 S200 T0 ;nozzle temp = 200'C
I hope this helps.
@bill345 For the first few months of using my CR-10-V3 (with glass bed) I used methylated spirits, which was good for removing contaminants, but also left a slight residue.
I bought some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol 99.9% Pure IPA) about 2 months ago and I've only needed to use it twice. Once you have de-greased and cleaned with this stuff, you can just print & print & print (...as long as you keep your fingers off the bed!).
Firmware Upgrades; it seems to me that a very large percentage of questions on this forum concern problems following attempted upgrades. Just leave your printer as it is and print, print, print! That's what it is for!
Although I was given a BLTouch, I have absolutely no intention of fitting it. Its not difficult to level your bed, and once its done, leave it alone and just print. Only go back and fiddle with it if you are getting problems. I can't talk about all Creality printers, but my CR-10 seems very stable, and doesn't need continual tweaking.
@Snoopy I love Perth, and Western Australia in general. We visited friends & relatives about 15 years ago and had a great time. Its now winter here in England...what can I say!
OK, from your tests we know that:-
It looks like everything is working as expected and sounds, from the above points, that you've covered all the bases...except one. You didn't mention the nozzle temperature.
The software/firmware in your printer controls the bed & nozzle temperatures by applying power to the heater elements and reading the output from thermal sensors. It also stops the extruder from running based upon a gcode setting called: Cold Extrude (M302).
So about the only thing left that I can think of, is that maybe the nozzle temperature is dropping below the Cold Extrude setting, and thereby disabling the extruder motor.
I don't know anything about your CP-01, but on my CR10 the default screen shows the target and actual temperature of both the bed and nozzle. So you need to take a close look at the actual nozzle temperature during the printing process.
I hope that helps ...'cos I'm running out of ideas!
@amrap Nice! Actually, the body of the creature looks pretty good!
But it looks like you are trying to print the tail without supports (i.e. trying to print in mid-air).
Did the creature remain stuck to the base-plate (bed) or did it break away before finishing the print? Without seeing a picture of the completed design, I can't say whether the problem with the head is also due to over-hangs.
So in the slicer software, you need to select General Supports, Touching Buildplate (or whatever the equivalent is in your slicer) for this particular model.
@techWhamBam I suggest you try their tech support channel if you specifically want their help: https://www.creality.com/service-request ...as they don't seem to be monitoring the forum at the moment.
Does your printer recover if you power off for a few hours...like the guy in the video?
Does your printer have a menu which allows you to manually enter Z values. If so, can you drive the Z down below its current high position, or does it just stay high?
@Antoni It looks like a micro-B: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Usb_connectors.JPG
I guess you have probably resolved this problem by now. But if not, don't buy a cable advertised as a charger cable, because these don't usually include the data connections (i.e. they often only have the 5V & 0V wires).
Connecting a 3D printer to a Linux computer is real easy: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/3d-printing-printer-to-linux-computer.html
For Mac or Windows systems, you need to do an internet search.
I think for Windows you may need to download a special driver. Most 3D printers have a simple serial port, despite using a universal (USB) connector (i.e. its not exactly plug 'n play on Windows).
@amrap OK, so the original filament can be dried out in an oven. BUT you must use a low temperature or run the risk of the filament going soft and changing shape. So if you want to try this, I'd suggest setting the oven to about 30'C in 'fan assisted' mode and run it for about 4 hours.
When not in use, put your filament inside a plastic bag with silica gel (see my notes: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/08/3d-printing-humidity-keeping-your-pla.html )
When you say that the printer only prints in the corner, and that the 'pattern is the same' please explain further.
When the printer has been correctly set up, the print position is determined by the sliced object; i.e. if you slice with the object in the centre of the slicer platform, then that is where it should print. However, if the entered values for platform size are incorrect in the slicer, the printer object may be printed off centre.
What slicer software are you using?
I would also recommend that you download a calibration cube from Thingiverse, slice it using Cura, and then print it. It will provide quite a bit of info about how well your printer is running and speed up diagnosis of any problems: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
I hope this helps, but come back if there is something you do not understand.
@billbyrd I guess a forum is only as good as its members. When I joined almost a year ago, it was also quite quiet, but then became quite active during the [northern hemisphere] summer.
However, most people come here with a problem or two, while those with experience (and sometimes answers) drift away and get on with the business of printing.
At the moment I don't have anything I want to print, so printer is just gathering dust.
Its only the forum's RSS news feed that pops up alerts from time-to-time that keeps calling me back.
If you are very new to 3D printing, you may find some of my blog posts of interest: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/search/label/3D printer
Otherwise, good luck & have fun.
BTW I was born in 1952, so not far behind you!
@billbyrd I think it may be due to file size...seem to remember that using "upload image" requires your image to me less than 200k (you may need to experiment).
There was an admin or two last summer...seem to have gone very quiet recently.
I wouldn't bother to swap motors just yet.
Are you testing this with a previously known working .gcode file?
What do you mean by "5%" ? Does the printer stop printing at the same layer or height every time?
Have you checked for an intermittent cable connection?
Here is a test you can do with or without filament from your controller interface;
If it doesn't, has the nozzle temperature dropped below 200'C?
If you are new to 3D printing, there is a lot to learn.
Some users have reported having problems with the free filament provided with the printer. If you curl the filament into a "U" shape and it snaps easily, the filament may have soaked up too much moisture from the atmosphere and may give you printing problems.
But what we really need from you is a photo of your printed dog.
I realise its a bit late for you, but here is my take on the problem...it may help others: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/3d-printer-isolating-usb-5volt-feed.html
