The problem is that the Creality printer controller is connected to the 5V supply in your wifi box, but there probably isn't enough power available to properly power the 3D printer (i.e. controller + heaters + motors).
A simple solution is to cut the 5V wire in the USB cable. See my post: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/3d-printer-isolating-usb-5volt-feed.html
@Yolanda Yes, multi-colour printing is a great way to make your models more visually interesting, even on a 3D printer with only a single nozzle extruder:-
How to:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/multicolour-printing-on-creality-cr-10.html
Its also quite easy to create your own 3D signs & name plates using FreeCAD:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/06/starting-freecad-making-name-plates.html
@Aeroxx_creative
Although you can't import the gCode, you can open the file using a 'text editor' and read the header and/or translate the gcode instructions.
These are just a few extracts from the Cat gCode:-
; printMaterial,PLA
; printQuality,High
...
; layerHeight,0.1
; useRaft,1
...
; infillPercentage,15
M140 S45 ;bed temp =45'C
M190 S45
M104 S200 T0 ;nozzle temp = 200'C
I hope this helps.
@bill345 For the first few months of using my CR-10-V3 (with glass bed) I used methylated spirits, which was good for removing contaminants, but also left a slight residue.
I bought some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol 99.9% Pure IPA) about 2 months ago and I've only needed to use it twice. Once you have de-greased and cleaned with this stuff, you can just print & print & print (...as long as you keep your fingers off the bed!).
Firmware Upgrades; it seems to me that a very large percentage of questions on this forum concern problems following attempted upgrades. Just leave your printer as it is and print, print, print! That's what it is for!
Although I was given a BLTouch, I have absolutely no intention of fitting it. Its not difficult to level your bed, and once its done, leave it alone and just print. Only go back and fiddle with it if you are getting problems. I can't talk about all Creality printers, but my CR-10 seems very stable, and doesn't need continual tweaking.
Yes its quite normal for a small amount of plastic to ooze out as the nozzle heats up. You could set the print head (say) 2cm above the bed and then carefully remove the surplus plastic once the nozzle is up to temperature.
However, when the nozzle 'dips' just before starting a print, it should stick and anchor itself to the bed, so maybe its not sticking as well as it should.
Another point is that the Cura slicer includes a 'purge line' at the start of each print. This is helpful in sorting out this kind of startup problem.
You need 2 things for your 3D printer to be able to make sounds;
i) an audio device such as a loud speaker or a simple buzzer
ii) a version of firmware that supports control of an audio device
My printer has Marlin v1.1.6.0 firmware and a simple buzzer (so only produces sounds at one fixed frequency). Full details here: http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/my-bleepin-3d-printer.html
If you are confident that you are using the M300 command correctly, then the next step is to work out whether your printer is capable of making sounds.
If it does make sounds when printing and object, you could open the gcode file in a text editor and look through to see how it is doing it.
If it never makes a sound ...well, it may just have been designed that way!
Also take a look at the full Marlin documentation: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M300.html
@amrap Yep, I've been there buddy!
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/07/3d-printing-filament-grinding-nozzle.html
I think 'partial blockages' (if such a condition exists) maybe something to do with filament additives.
@Ground-Source I was discussing this problem a few weeks ago over on the Gambas One website; from this post onwards: https://forum.gambas.one/viewtopic.php?p=5344#p5344
I think its probably a bug in certain versions of Marlin software, so it maybe an idea to visit their issues page: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues?q=is%3Aissue
...or search/ask your question here: https://reprap.org/forum/list.php?415
...as I doubt that Creality will respond.
@amrap Yes, with a 3D editor such as FreeCAD you can design objects and output your designs as a .stl file. But this file does not produce any printer information.
Its the job of the slicer to produce gcode which contains all the basic coordinate data. In addition to drawing each layer, the gcode controls temperatures, fan operation, retraction & so on.
Knowing which settings need adjusting to get the best results is all part of the game. There must be hundreds of options in a slicer like Cura. You will find several articles on the internet that attempt to provide 'recipes' for fixing certain problems.
It can also get confusing where a 3D printer was working fine yesterday, but today it just churns out woven baskets; it might be due to a more challenging model, or an issue with the printer, the filament or the environment.
When you consider how a machine prints, its a wonder to me that it ever works!
@Persius You seem to have so many problems, so my comments may not be much use...but here goes.
I have the same printer and its been great. Although I was given a BLTouch, I've never fitted it. Two reasons; too many horror stories on the forum, and I've had no real problems leveling the bed manually.
When selecting auto home, the extruder is lowered right down until the Z limit switch operates. If it crashes the bed & doesn't stop, its either because the bed is too high or that the system is not producing or responding to the end-stop signal. This should be an easy thing for you to test, after first lowering the bed so its safely out of the way.
If the controller is receiving the end-stop signal but failing to stop, then it sounds like either your software is scrambled or the electronics are damaged.
If it were me, I'd attempt to de-mod the printer by removing BLTouch and re-installing the original software...but if you can't do this via the SD card or via a USB cable, then you're probably screwed.
I wasn't happy that the USB connection is live, so I cut the 5V lead in the USB cable:-
http://captainbodgit.blogspot.com/2021/05/3d-printer-isolating-usb-5volt-feed.html
During last year there were a few people offering advice on this forum that appeared to be associated with Creality...but they seem to have disappeared.
You could try email (if you haven't already done so) I think the address is: service@creality3dofficial.com
Good luck mate!
@auzzyboy Corner warping (curl) is typically caused by the corners cooling faster than the rest of the print.
The easiest fix is to print with a 'brim'.
So in Cura, select Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim
The default is 8mm, which is generally wide enough.
@RASORDIVER I don't have an Ender, but generally when you "Home" a 3D printer, the 3 axis motors drive the system until all 3 limit switches are operated.
So I guess the Y limit switch (and possibly the X & Z limit switches) need to be repositioned to allow for the changes you have made to the mechanics.
@Snoopy I love Perth, and Western Australia in general. We visited friends & relatives about 15 years ago and had a great time. Its now winter here in England...what can I say!
OK, from your tests we know that:-
It looks like everything is working as expected and sounds, from the above points, that you've covered all the bases...except one. You didn't mention the nozzle temperature.
The software/firmware in your printer controls the bed & nozzle temperatures by applying power to the heater elements and reading the output from thermal sensors. It also stops the extruder from running based upon a gcode setting called: Cold Extrude (M302).
So about the only thing left that I can think of, is that maybe the nozzle temperature is dropping below the Cold Extrude setting, and thereby disabling the extruder motor.
I don't know anything about your CP-01, but on my CR10 the default screen shows the target and actual temperature of both the bed and nozzle. So you need to take a close look at the actual nozzle temperature during the printing process.
I hope that helps ...'cos I'm running out of ideas!
@amrap Nice! Actually, the body of the creature looks pretty good!
But it looks like you are trying to print the tail without supports (i.e. trying to print in mid-air).
Did the creature remain stuck to the base-plate (bed) or did it break away before finishing the print? Without seeing a picture of the completed design, I can't say whether the problem with the head is also due to over-hangs.
So in the slicer software, you need to select General Supports, Touching Buildplate (or whatever the equivalent is in your slicer) for this particular model.