Posts made by Stonedog03

Okay....so the replacement PS fan I previously mentioned turned out to be a sleeve bearing fan and soon started making even more noise.........That's what I get for not reading closely....So....I did the Noctua A9x14 fan mod as shown in the Facebook group (credit to Art Baldwin who did the heavy lifting on that mod). Since I was going to be really modding stuff, I started playing with the hot end. I found that the most noise was coming from the part cooling fan. It would make a rubbing/grinding noise on startup. So I ordered this replacement fan: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/4010-ball-bearing-fan-24v/ which is the same size / voltage as the stock one. I did have to go to shorter screws to mount it as the mounting boss on the stock fan was a bit thicker, leaving the new fan a bit loose when the screws bottomed. This replacement fan seems to put out a more air flow over the stock one. Interestingly the heat break fan is tiny, which I usually associate with LOUD, but mine at least is dead silent. Surprising, but welcome! For the part cooling fan, the wire colors are Blue=ground and Yellow=positive. The Noctua A9x14 in the power supply is super quite. I printed the new power supply cover in black and since I already had my printer on some riser feet, not a big deal to fit. I really wanted to reduce heat in the power supply with this mod. The stock fan is TINY and with the outer power supply cover in place, air flow is frankly bad. The stock outer cover has an intake grill for the fan, but NO matching exit for the heat? It should have some slots or something for the heat to exit the area. Since the A9x14 mod ditches the outer cover and replaces the power supply lid, air flow is greatly improved. Anyway, that's my .02 cents.

Overall, this effort dropped the printer from 54db when printing to 49db when printing. The loudest fan is STILL the part cooling fan, so there is still some improvement possible, but -5db isn't a bad result at all.

@alan3664 @Haste9r Thanks! That did the trick! Had to dig around a bit to find an SD card small enough to accept 4k clusters!

@alan3664 Using the DWIN_SET from the source code RAR did not work for me either. Same result as what @bstefans16 was getting. I tried the DWIN_SET from "CR-6 SE -source code V1.0.3.6.rar" and also the one inside of "DWIN_SET.zip.saving" from the "CR-6 SE 32BIT latest firmware--V1.0.3.6.rar" set. They all result in the same message as seen by @bstefans16 .

Any suggestions?

Here is what I'm using:

Start gcode:

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

G28 ;Home

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X2.1 Y10 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X2.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X2.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X2.4 Y10 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

And here is the end gcode:

G91 ;Relative positionning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning

G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

The start code is only slightly modified from what Creality provided for the CR-6SE. I moved the purge line over much closer to the edge of the print surface. Hope that helps you out. FYI - I'm using this with Cura 4.7.1. There is different start and end code for PrusaSlicer if you prefer that.

So, I got this replacement fan off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1Y4HRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's a 12v fan which is what is required for the power supply. It's a direct replacement for what is there, but watch the polarity on the connector. On mine, the meanwell power supply fan connector was opposite of what the new fan came as. Easy enough to pop the wire out of the connector and swap them. Since I was doing that, I moved the wire protector from the factory fan to the new one. Fits with no other modification and is much quieter than the factory one. Now I just need to do the other 60x15mm on the control board. That one is supposed to be 24v, so I got an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter to drop it down to 12v so I can use the same fan there. Haven't done that swap yet.

Anyway, just swapping out the power supply fan dropped the printer to 54db when printing. Much better than it was stock.

Did you lay down blue tape or glue stick on the glass or just print directly on the glass?

@Stonedog03 said in Cr-6 SE - USB connection:

There is another product that can prevent the printer from drawing power over the USB link from your raspberry pi (think octoprint) or computer:

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/power-blough-r-pi-usb-power-blocker/

I ordered one today, so obviously I haven't tested this yet (the product just came back in stock). Hopefully they will get it out to me quickly and I can report back on how it works.

So I received the "Power BLough" USB power blocker and it works as advertised. I am now able to power off the CR-6 with it still plugged into my USB port without it sucking power and lighting up the touch screen. Sucks that we have to add things to make it right, but this at least solves the issue.

-Mike

@admin - Are the fans on the CR-6 SE 24v or 12v......cause some of these are quite loud. I might like to find some quieter fans if possible.

Here is a link to some good calibration information that a friend sent me:

https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/

I used that article to calibrate my CR-6.

Could be your power switch went out. If you have the printer connected via USB, when the power supply shuts down, the LCD will actually come back on by sucking power over the USB link. When that happened with mine, it did make some weird chirping / whining sounds. The power switch was acting up intermittently....IE - it works....fails....works again....fails. That's just not acceptable. IMHO - Just replace the power switch. I posted a link to the one I got on amazon in other thread, but here it is again:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QS8K8T2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That switch seems to work fine. It fits perfectly in the housing and I haven't had any power issues since installing it.

There is another product that can prevent the printer from drawing power over the USB link from your raspberry pi (think octoprint) or computer:

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/power-blough-r-pi-usb-power-blocker/

I ordered one today, so obviously I haven't tested this yet (the product just came back in stock). Hopefully they will get it out to me quickly and I can report back on how it works.

There is a typo in the file 'creality_base.def.json'.....if you edit it in notepad++......line 8..... look for "Absolute positionning\n\nG1 X0 Y{machine_depth}"

I'm not sure if it is causing the issue or not, but it might be why I got errors and @rjamison did not, since he only copied the 'creality_cr6se.def.json' file.

-Mike

If anybody is interested, here is the switch I used to repair my printer. You don't need to replace the whole input power assembly as you can change out just the switch itself. If do this, please take the time to tighten up all the connectors as shown in the video I linked to earlier.

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QS8K8T2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just changed the switch on mine and restarted an 8 hour print (fortunately I was only 20 minutes in when it quit last time). So far so good! The factory switch seemed to fail open and then if I messed with it a bit, it would go back to working for awhile. Not good. You may notice that the replacement switch I used is not lighted. My factory one never lit up anyway (didn't appear to be wired to either).

-Mike

Nope.....I was wrong when I said I was wrong...LOL The power switch just crapped out again. Good thing there is a replacement already on the way.

@admin - How do we get compensated for the power switch replacement costs?

@Stonedog03 - Ended up just being loose connections TO the power switch. Tightened all the connections and the printer is working again. Ordered the replacement switch anyway.

This video is a good resource for this issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zgcf3aD1x8&t=87s&ab_channel=CMe

@rjamison - I tried copying the CR-6 definition from the Creality provide Cura to 4.7.1 and it didn't like it. I got an error message about my configuration being corrupt. Had to dump all my configuration to clear that message.

Mine just died in the middle of a print. I'm assuming that is the issue. Need to pull the switch and test it.

Creality.....what's the process here? I have already ordered a replacement from Amazon.

@spauliszyn I totally agree. Seems like it should be a pretty simple fix to do, so it puzzles me why we have no timeline on the resolution. It's not like it just the CR-6 SE either, seems to be all the latest printers are sharing the same firmware and thus the same issue.

Other than this issue, my CR-6 SE experience has been really good, especially since this is my first 3D printer!

Yeah, I have the same issue with my CR-6 SE:

Recv: TT::29.8329.83 //0.000.00 BB::39.5839.58 //0.000.00 @@::00 BB@@::00

There is a work around via a plugin for OctoPrint, but it is annoying.