Current BL-touch firmware is really still v 1.0.2?
That's the version that people got working for BL-Touch v3.1?

My Ender-6 was delivered with firmware version 1.0.4.
In case something goes wrong with that firmware, i want to have a backup of my current firmware.
But the latest non-BL-Touch firmware on the various creality download sites is only v.1.0.1.

@admin rather than post files in this forum, can you also please arrange to update download site with newest non-BL-Touch firmware (at least v.1.0.4)?

thanks!

@sblakey8 best to check and post in the ender 6 forum for ender 6 stuff.

https://forum.creality.com/topic/1005/bl-touch-connection/3

To plug into the little board near the extruder you indeed need a cable with the same connector on both ends. It's called molex Picoblade, or unofficially/incorrectly/knockoff named "JST 1.25" 5-pin. Have not seen ready-made cables sold yet. You have to make it yourself.

• Either from bl touch extension cable:
  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Sqs6rGUX9yw
• Or from normal cables. I used this
  https://www.ebay.de/itm/JST-GH-1-25mm-Stecker-Stecker-28AWG-Kabel-Connector-2-10-Pin-Micro-Mini-1-25/183673793236
• Or crimp on your own connector

Recommend you read up good on firmware and know what you're getting yourself into, because the only support coming from creality in this forum at the moment is a link to (probably) outdated firmware. There are so many people screwing their printers up, probably by doing something wrong in the flashing process.

The guide and help here seems to be more coherent
https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/

Do what you want, but I'm not going to flash anything yet myself, until i can find a backup of my current firmware v1.0.4 (or newer). All they have posted now are older ones. I don't want to join the "bricked" thread, so I'm patiently waiting..................

Probably somebody else knows, but in the meantime, maybe you try some of the checks/adjustments mentioned here
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Should be able to narrow it down before spending the time on another of those globes.

@jgates19966 unfortunately, if you've tried everything, there is indeed nothing else you can do

Can be frustrating but it takes experimenting... Even different colours of the same filament type/brand on the same printer can behave differently.
Some are more sensitive to settings than others. Keep track of exactly what you've tried and what works/doesn't (especially around temperatures).

Lots of resources out there. I like this one https://teachingtechyt.github.io/troubleshooting.html#firstlayer or youtube.
Good luck

maybe it's time to post a success story here...

and i take it back. creality DID post a how-to for BL Touch on Ender-6:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWjK9ECebMA

I can confirm that the firmware 1.0.4.9 and BL touch 3.1 do play nice together.
i used one that was labelled for ender-3 v2.

bought another picoblade connector (pre-wired), cut the big connector off the bl touch cable, wired the new one up colour-for-colour (ok, green was supposed to be white). otherwise it was plug and play, following the video exactly step by step.

i'm pretty sure using a fresh-formatted empty sd card is a step missed by a lot of people who later have problems. or not having the bl touch connected during flashing (or "brushing" as creality calls it) or during startup. and dont forget to disonnect the Z end-stop. if testing before mounting the unit, make sure it's vertical so the pin can drop freely.

also, before i soldered on the new cable end, i tested with some alligator clips. the ender did NOT like that at all: all the stepper motors growled like an angry wolf pack whenever BL was plugged in. pretty scary, but luckily the final cable solder job stopped this. I assume it was interference with PWM.

only thing left to solve is how to store the bed mesh and z offset, so it doesn't have to measure after powering off.

@SteveDee said in Ender3 v2 Glass Bed Cleaning & Firmware Upgrade ?:

Firmware Upgrades; it seems to me that a very large percentage of questions on this forum concern problems following attempted upgrades. Just leave your printer as it is and print, print, print! That's what it is for!

"I bought a new car, but before I ever drove it, I put on new wheels, a turbo, and chip-tuned it. Now it's making a funny noise. What's wrong?"

But seriously, to add on @Gracy 's answer about firmware: the version that comes on your printer should be working as intended out of the box. In general, other than to support hardware changes (like bl touch or other kits), it shouldn't be necessary to update. Definitely get it up, running, and familiar at first, at the very least.

For cleaning: as @SteveDee says, it's just about degreasing previous prints and finger prints. I had read the same reports of IPA reacting with some bed surfaces. while I'm skeptical of that, I found simple dish detergent always does the trick, and don't need anything more complicated. Could test a small amount on a corner if you want to be sure.

@jan141282 said in Firmware for Ender 6 to support BL touch V3.1:

I have also placed the bl-touch wit the latest firmware and it works the only problem is that the settings aren't written
in the EEPROM of the mainboard but on the micro SD in the file eeprom.dat . so if you replace the sd wit an other you settings are gone.

you're right about the eeprom.dat on sd card - weird that they would do that! maybe it is a mistake?

i was finally able to get the bed level measurements to stay also, by measuring directly after flashing the BL firmware. then power off, remove sd card, delete the firmware .bin file (keep eeprom.dat!), and put sd back in the printer.

@Pyrolev787 Very happy to report that both of these are now posted at creality3dofficial

https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-6/

There are lots of guides out there for other creality printers, but unfortunately not much for ender-6 yet. Might take a while for one of those flashy creality how-to videos, but never know. Hope somebody will shed some light eventually though. In the meantime trial/error and keep googlin' i guess....

@GZZ agree 100%, should not be on SD!

And that also seems backwards: that disable auto bed level means it doesn't read stored values. Annoying.
You'd think disabled = read & use the stored mesh,
Enabled = will measure again before print, so don't necessarily need to read.

If you have the right G code in your slicer though, and there is a valid mesh, it should be ok to leave ABL off in the lcd menu but still read & use the stored mesh... But I haven't had a chance to try yet.

Should be able to bypass the whole faulty menu by using serial terminal, although I don't think that solves the SD card mistake. Probably needs firmware editing.

@dman said in Firmware for Ender 6 to support BL touch V3.1:

Hi, I have BLtouch version 3.1. The cable between the BLTouch and the PCB has only 1 JST connector for the BLTouch. The other end of the cable just has female headers to connect to the adapter boards.

Yeah i fell in the same trap, believing they might have come with cables for Ender-6. It seems they are not being sold yet.

Do you know which JST connector is needed to connect to the PCB mounted to the frame?

It's exactly the same as what goes into the bl touch itself. I learned that these smaller connectors are technically not JST connectors (JST being a company), they are "Picoblade 5-pin" connectors designed by company Molex. If you buy from an electronics shop, that's the right name. If you buy from amazon/etc, then the same are sold with the (wrong) name "JST 1.25mm 5-pin".

Or you can buy a bl touch extension cable, which has 1 of those on one end, and something else on the other. Maybe you can find the right extension kit that plugs into what you got with your bl touch. If not, you probably have to do some cutting and soldering.

In any case, you need to end up with a cable with identical connectors at each end, and pay attention to the wiring!

This is how mine ended up.

Try this https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-use-cura-pause-at-height-a-quick-guide/?

@charliewhiskey maybe it has to do with the odd choice of forum this post was posted in.

They always say in times like this to email cs@creality.com with specific info about purchase and problem detail.

@themacboy I guess the suggestion is to insert the M600 command into start and end gcode sections, so you can change filament before and after every print?

Maybe this is more of a Cura Post-Processing Modify GCode kind of thing. If M600 doesn't work on this firmware, then there are some other options to try to achieve the same goal... but the OP never mentioned what that is.

@wjm maybe a dumb question, but have you checked that it is only the .bin file that's on the sd card, and tried again?

Yup! Cool stuff.
Search "tensegrity" on thingiverse or google to get your fix.

@JakeAngellusa good to hear you're getting some better prints. When you slice models to make your own gcode files (with cura/creality slicer) in the future, you will be able to set these temperatures in the settings and should not have to fight it.
If you wanted, you could also easily edit the temperatures in existing gcode files using notepad like in my snapshot before.

@omexlu
Don't own one, not sure if same or safe for cr6 SE, but Google says
"d79work
312d
In case you are still needing it, M42 P6 S255 (S is brightness value from 0-255)"
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR6/comments/ink15o/led_gcode/

maybe it would be useful to mention in posts like this which firmware files/versions you're talking about, and where you got them from.

but yes it does smell quite strongly of a wrong/faulty wiring connection.

@RoyDuggan i dont know exactly, but just toss some suggestions. is it possible there's a sub-setting still set to the lower speed? maybe not all settings are showing:

is it every model you print now? test pieces too? is only the first layer slow?
do you still have an older gcode you can try?

@Gracy thanks! Yes you're right, it is because of the overall geometry, more than the printing direction. It looks like an ancient stone arch bridge
https://www.autoevolution.com/news/striatus-is-worlds-first-freestanding-concrete-3d-printed-bridge-in-venice-166079.html