@Gracy The best bed adhesion is achieved on a cleaned mirror glass. This is due to the even temperature distribution by the thin metal film on the other side.

When leveled correctly by auto-bed level and a 0.2 mm thickness gauge and set at right material temp the adhesion can be high enough to rip chips out of the glass.

Glass mirror tiles go by 1 € per piece. You can cut them with a diamond disk and alcohol cooling with a Dremel type micro hand grinder.

Some adhesive like hairspray will reduce chipping.

On glass you really don't have much adhesion issues if you clean pre print with Ethanol spirit or Isopropanol.

@Gracy The best bed adhesion is achieved on a cleaned mirror glass. This is due to the even temperature distribution by the thin metal film on the other side.

When leveled correctly by auto-bed level and a 0.2 mm thickness gauge and set at right material temp the adhesion can be high enough to rip chips out of the glass.

Glass mirror tiles go by 1 € per piece. You can cut them with a diamond disk and alcohol cooling with a Dremel type micro hand grinder.

Some adhesive like hairspray will reduce chipping.

On glass you really don't have much adhesion issues if you clean pre print with Ethanol spirit or Isopropanol.

Ok, I had a German RepRap printer before. Ender 6 is way better and for the price it is one of the best non industrial desktop 3D printers on the market. Why? It got a great metal extruder and a low vibration frame on a 24V mainboard with great Stepper drivers.
Bed levelling is key to get started. Unfo Creality is stuck in an Antclabs exclusive deals like oh so many other 3D vendors. You can't get that BL touch included in the printer for auto bed level. Manual bed level plain sucks.
I prefer a Hall sensor bed level sensor with 10 mm reading distance for 10 bucks plus a bit of soldering and cut a mount plate. It is hard to get stable voltage for that in the Ender 6 mainboard.
The BL touch argument goes like "oh, but you got differences in reading the thickness of the metal of your print surface and temperutres." Well, I don't. I define the points of the plane I set my checkpoints for and I level a cold bed. In fact Creality isn't to blame for the mess Antclabs created with their licensing deal clauses here.
Many people do want the Antclab product as an easy goto solution. So Creality is somewhat forced into that deal by their customers. Either you get yourself the BL touch or you start modify your Ender 6 yourself.
Just don't supply a Hall sensor from a PWM voltage. You need a stable DC source. Don't try a microswitch, they are to inaccurate. A BL touch is a rip off price. Chew it or grow up and learn. Antclabs as a company isn't to low to downvote Hall sensors all over amazon in the comment sections. I used that by 2010 already when auto-bed level just came up. I progressed into UV Resin PLA and even PA12 laser SLS tech. My best machine is optimized to a 300k € industrial pro machine quality level now. Nevertheless I got myself a Ender 6 FDM for quick and dirty technical model review. For the 600 bucks it is a stellar great machine for what low cost direct drive FDM can achieve at maximum optimization. You really need to dig deep into your pockets and time to make it any better. I optimized my first FDM for 3 years and know the really deep ends of it's limitations as an engineer using this for pro R&D applications daily. As you don't seem to have the money for the Ultimaker or other out of the box experience what do you complain about here? If manual bed level blows your frustrations threshold in DIY maybe you are better off using pro print services and save you a steep and brutally hard learning curve. The best idea is to be a bit more humble and seek help step by step and grow into FDM maker skills. At best analyze why other people don't share your issue before you trash talk a vendor with a lot of happy customers.