I also have a brand new machine and had the same problem as the OP. Adding conservative amounts of lubricant does nothing. Instead, I found that slathering on overkill amounts of SuperLube using a glove onto the z-axis lead screws and the z-axis linear bearings instantly cured the problem. When the problem disappears, just wipe off the excess that accumulates near the nuts and bearings, and then you're done.
Best posts made by WhiteHare
RE: Squeaking Z Lift
Latest posts made by WhiteHare
RE: Squeaking Z Lift
@Kaelum Though the squeek can be silenced, I noticed that there is metal-on-metal grinding that continued, as evidenced by the change in color of the lubricant from white to dark gray. This does raise a question about how long these parts will last before too much play develops. For those here who decide to keep their printer, I wish you the best of luck.
RE: How to properly insulate the heatbed of the Ender 5 Plus?
Looking into it more, the layout of the heating traces is non-uniform, leading to large differences in heatbed temprature, especially in the quadrant where the cable wires connect to the heatbed. I made attempts to mitigate the problem but ended up concluding that it was largely impossible without a full rip-out and replace with some other design. As I found no answers here, I returned the printer. For those here who decide to stick with it, I wish you the best of luck.
RE: Ender 5 Plus heated bed anomaly.
Reporting back: applying after-market insulation on the uninsulated parts really did help even out the temperature differences. Not 100%, but much better than before.
RE: What's the best Ender 5 Plus build plate to buy for printing PETG?
Well, almost. I did try Avery Glue Stick Disappearing Purple Color, Washable, Nontoxic, 1.27 oz. Permanent Glue Stic, 6pk (98071), which I'm guessing is probably very similar if not the same as Elmer's. I did, though, feel the need to wash it off after the print cooled as it felt a bit sticky. I'll give the Elmer's a try.
RE: Best Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) for the Ender 5 Plus?
Reporting back: I went for overkill and got the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini Tower Black. This one definitely works without any problem.
Best Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) for the Ender 5 Plus?
We had a power outage here today during a print on m Ender 5 Plus, and I'm sorry to say that it's power panic recovery just isn't good enough. When power is lost, it freezes with the hotend stuck to the print, and it let's everything, including the headbed, cool down after power is restored until it gets answer to the question: "Resume interrupted print?" I click "Yes", and it heats up the printhead in the same position, thereby melting a nice crater into the print. There's more, but you get the idea.
So, I need a UPS that's powerful enough to power the Ender 5 Plus through short power interruptions--say up to a minute. Even just 30 seconds might be good enough. Any UPS recommendations? I did try running the Ender 5 Plus from a CyberPower PR750LCD Smart App Sinewave UPS System, 750VA/525W, which from the specs I thought would have had enough oomph, but the CyberPower complained that the power draw from the Ender 5 Plus was too large. Perhaps the reason why is that, due to inefficiency, the Ender 5 Plus's 400w meanwell power supply pulls more than 525w. Either that or perhaps the meanwell power supply can't provide 525w, or anything near it, for longer than a few moments..
Ender 5 Plus heated bed anomaly.
Using an IR thermometer, I determined that the upper righthand corner of the build plate is about 15C cooler than the center of the build plate. This is a much bigger difference than on the other 3 corners, and it is warping my prints! This corner is where the power leads are soldered to the heated bed. Maybe that has something to do with it?
Anyhow, how to fix this discrepancy? I'm going to apply some more insulation underneath the heatbed, and I may double-up or triple-up on that corner to try to bring its temperature inline with the other parts of the heated bed. Anyone have any other suggestions?
What else can be done, if anything, to remedy this situation?
RE: Squeaking Z Lift
Reporting back: the SuperLube lasted 17 days, and then the squeeking returned. As before, I applied overkill amounts, and now the squeaking has disappeared again.
However, unlike the first time, when the color of the superlube remained white after applying it and running the z-axis up and down once, this time it turned grey: a light grey on the linear brearings, and a much darker grey on the acme screws. I think this likely means that there is very fine metal on metal grinding, and presumably that is the source of the squeeking.
How to properly insulate the heatbed of the Ender 5 Plus?
Incredibly, when you look under the heatbed, only the center of it is actually insulated. The two inch band around the perimeter is not insulated at all, resulting in temperatures there that are lower than they should be. Predictably enough, the result is warped prints.
So, what would be the best kind of insulation to add there that will actually stick to the heated bed?
RE: Is there a 32-bit Creality silent mainboard that works with Ender 5 Plus?
As best I can tell, the answer is no.
I'll be upgrading to a Duet 2 Wifi, which should work a lot better than the buggy board that came built into the machine or the buggy silent upgrade board.