Cannot print ABS or ASA due to the bed warping at 90c. PLA prints fine but the bed temp is at 45c for PLA. Auto level runs at 45c on the bed temp so when I try to print at 90c bed temp the nozzle hits the bed. Any ideas on a fix or get around?
Prehit the hotbed manually and only after this make a map from the web interface. Probably you will need a fluid.
Run the bed to 90 and run a autolevel mesh at 90, I can do that on the older 5plus, never tried ABS/ASA on that printer as it is open and prone to the prints warping, youād be better with an enclosed printer or add an enclosure.
You cannot do a bed level at 90. It will not do a bed level until the bed temp drops to 45. It is in an enclosure
Nope, you can. But you need to do it from web interface, not from the screen.
#chris1724 I 100% understand your problem. I have exactly same problem like yours.
If you preheat bed it will start to print or level bed when plate cool down to around 50 degrees. And this value is set in firmware and you cant do anything to go around that.
Even in web interface cant be done. I realy hope that creality will fix this firmware bugs soon. I just donāt get it how this can be? They already have a lot of printers in market and bugs like that are totally unacceptableā¦
I answered you what to do, but you still donāt understand what you doing wrong.
And the problem of wrapping itās because you donāt have enclosure and probably there is a draft (wind). For the abs you need printer with enclosure.
@Vladimir_Loukyanenko
Okā¦i tried all this: for petg set bed temp 70 degrees.
Slice in creality print and slice in orca slicer.
Send to printer from slicer upload and print. Just upload and print from screen. Store to usb and then print.
Preheat bed to 70 and send from both slicers, from web interface, from usb, from printer screenā¦
Same problem. Printer wait to preheated bed to 70 cools down to around 52 and after that it start printing. And when it start to print bed temp is around 55 degrees.
And I have enclosure!
This is sooooo wrong.
What klipper are you talking about? What fluid? It is stock firmware not klipperā¦please explain it litle bit detailed.
On your second screenshot you can clearly see that target temperature is 45. So in slicer you used 45. You have to change it on every types of build plates (you have 3 deferent types). Because you use a new type - epoxy build plate, so itās use this temperature. You donāt even know how to use the slicer and you say that you are not a new to 3d prints.
And this is the fluid interface. If you donāt know what is klipper and fluid you are new in 3d printing.
@Vladimir_Loukyanenko , I think you are pushing your responses in the wrong direction here.
This forum is for assisting others only, not for criticizing.
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ASSISTING
](ASSISTING | English meaning - Cambridge Dictionary)
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CRITICIZING
Dude wrote in other topic that he is not a beginner in 3d printing after Iāve tried to explain him what to do. Iāve tried once again, but heās not trying to understand what Iām saying. Itās not criticizing, itās explaining what heās doing wrong and pointing that he is a beginner, and probably need to listen what others try to say in attempt to help him.
There are better ways of saying things when replying.
If a comment is not helpful, donāt print it,
Cheers.
Thatās the way Iām saying things. You can use yours.
On my second screen shot you can see that printer cool down bed temperature from set temperaturein slicer. I set new values for my print bed in slicer to 70 degrees in slicer. And I have more then 3 different types. I even check start code to see why it donāt wait for bed and hotend temperture to stabilise and then start to print.
Yes creality saying this is new bed and 45 degrees shuld be great for bed adhesive.
Maybe 54 degrees is to hot? And is this the reason why PETG wont stay on bad?
I gues Iām really beginner in all 3d stuffā¦Iām in 3d printing over 15 years, I do a lot with cnc machines and oher nc machines. Not just work with them but writing firmware and other engineering stuff.
We are not talking about klipper and fluid here. We are talking about creality print, orca slicer and creality web interface.
And for the record I like mainsail not fluid.
Right now I have at home voron 2.4r, hypercube evolution heavily changed from stock, Sermoon-D1 converted to corexy and ratrig printer. They are all running on klipper which I code it by myself for my needs. What do you have? Eneder 3?
Like I said no matter what I do printer bed cools down if I preheat it. I even try to manually eddit g-code ( have degree for cnc engineering) and it wont accept my values. And I have new version of firmware which creality send to me. So yes Iām working with them to solve firmware problemsā¦do you? Or is just me because Iām beginnerā¦
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After all I will not to argue with youā¦Iām looking for solution.
Later I will root my ender 5 max and go on with full klipper.
If anyone is in same path there is link how to:
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First of all, there is nothing in g-code that can make it wait to stabilise temps before printing, only in config file of the printer.
And yes you are talking about firmware (and itās a klipper, fluid itās only an interface/shell), because you are blaming the firmware.
Why if I set temps it works with those temps? Maybe you are doing something wrong? Probably you are because we are using the same firmware and same slicer.
Iām the one who sent them what they need to change in their firmware to make it work with pause in g-code.
You have a new hotbed because itās me who found the problem with hotbed. I was one of the first users who used this printer.
And yes you are probably really new to this because you really do not understand what is klipper is. In one of the first comments you said you are waiting for klipper for this printer. 
and how do you think Iāve installed the fluid? Itās the only way for now to install it - helper script via ssh and rooted firmware.