Anyone have any luck with ABS on the V3? I don’t see a profile in Creality Print.
You really need an enclosed printer with a heated chamber for ABS without it you will get warping and layers splitting. There are some Easy ABS filaments out there that are more forgiving to print but I doubt mechanically are as strong. Under the right conditions, 55°C chamber, 100°C bed, no draughts or fans I can print ABS just as well as printing PLA.
Sunlu Easy ABS and Creality Hyper ABS+ are supposed to be easier for open bedslingers, but I have not tried them.
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Thanks…Gonna try PETG instead. I had good succes with that on my
trusy old V2 with Sonic Pad.
PETG is great, but make sure it is dry or it will string.
It’s worth note that it plays nice with an Enclosure so long as you either account for the spool holder on the side or use a dry box affair and a feed tube into the enclosure.
I just printed two rather large Polycarbonate parts on my shiny new V3 (I nuked my steppers on my massively tricked out V2 from heat and pushing them just that bit too far… I’ll be rebuilding things so pass it on to someone else wanting a beast…) and this is with the stock Creality zipperbag enclosure that I had for my prior printer.
ABS is a relative piece of cake for this printer with an enclosure and they’re not that expensive. ABS should be something in your repertoire as PLA doesn’t do well in outdoors and while PETG does nicely enough, there’s a reason they use ABS in all the electronics enclosures and in all sorts of automotive interior parts.
You don’t have to print crazy stuff like PC or Nylon. It’s just with the right bed prep (Vision Miner Nano Adhesive or Magigoo…) and it kind of laughs at those too.
Are you using that as release agent? I don’t use glue on my Qidi machines, but the build plate seems much more grippy than other PEI build plates that I have.
If you’re talking PC or Nylon, NO. It only sort of sticks to PEI, textures or otherwise. The force involved on cooling will peel it right off.
Release agent for ASA. Don’t use anythings for PETG or PLA. Works nicely enough on this magnetic sheet or my v2’s Garolite bed.
When I say I print PC…I really do mean it…
Pictured is the most recent item. More of a POC than anythings else. That is a folding powered wheelchair and the white part is what I printed last night. You’ll get warping with straight up PEI with PC at that size.
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Nice use of prototyping.
Thank you.
I’ve been a design engineer for nearly 40 years and have had 3D parts printed for about 25 years its only recently that I have been able to convince the company where I work to bring 3DP inhouse so we can make parts almost instantly. Its that sort of prototype work that pays for itself in the end. I love it when someone comes up and asks for a new jig/fixture and they can have it within hours, very fulfilling.
Frank…This is on a V3?
Yes. It very much is.
Yep. It can be very empowering to hand someone these things to make stuff with.
While I will own it’s off topic…the prototype part was a qualified success. There’s a design flaw I ended up picking up from the original design that needs a bit of re-work for it to be a resounding success. The captive nut wasn’t so hot and was adding focused loading on that pivot point on the part. Removing the captive nut aspect since there is no impact from an exterior nylock nut on this part, it can have a washer to spread out the load a bit better.
Be even better if it were printed in PEEK or PAEK, not that this is possible with any of Creality’s product line. IF Tullomer is as described, it would be even better than those two. Right now I’m trying to figure out if I need to go full cray-cray on my V2 or if I can get a bed temp of 120 degrees- it’s the only thing keeping me from making a profile for that.
instead of a captive nut how about brass inserts? I use them all the time, less of a stress raiser too.
As for printing PEEK we are talking a printer in the £10K+ type money.
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Loading’s going to be a problem with the brass inserts in this case. If there’s enough force there to basically shatter the matrix (Walls, infill) where it did, namely right next to the captive nut area, means it’s not got enough mass/volume there to be stronger. Putting in a brass insert in for this context is going to just strip the thing out.
Yeah, there’s a reason I have interest in Tullomer. It’s printable on a wider range of printers than that other stuff while being actually several times stronger to boot. Right now I’m trying to figure out bed temps for the v3 because we’re 10 degrees shy of the magic minimum numbers to print on the really, really cheap.
Out of the factory my V3SE has a maximum bed temperature of 100°C but connecting it to the Sonic Pad it now has a maximum of 125°C, so I am thinking it is firmware limited. It made it to 125 but I don’t know how sustainable it is. It stayed there for a couple of minutes before throwing an error on the Sonic Pad requiring a reboot. Attached a K type thermistor to the bed to see what temperature it actually got to, it was more like 115°C than 125°C.
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When you say no fans do you mean all? I have a direct feed and it has a cooling fan as well as the nozzle cooling fan. Both need to be off?
If you’re printing ABS, ASA, Polycarbonate or Nylon, regardless of the printer, you want part cooling OFF and heatbreak on. If you don’t keep the heatbreak basically on, you will get what we, in the community call, “heat creep,” occur in the hotend.
It causes the heat to eventually rise up and partially soften the filament in a way that you didn’t want. It gets soft and squishy, though not fully melted, and ends up making a hotend clog as you print, with the retractions and exrtrusions slowly wadding the now squishy but not fully melted filament into the feed tube.
The reason for the cooling fan being off is that it cools the stuff TOO fast in almost all cases and you end up with poor/no layer adhesion.