Hi, I’m new to this forum and 3D printing in general, started with an Ender 3 v2 in Jan and since bought a K1 Max and love it.
My issue is with the Hyper PLA (Had 3 rolls with initial purchase, 2 white and one grey) Both the whites have been amazing straight out the pack with the base Orca slicer profile for the Creality high speed filament. However, I cannot for the life of me get the Grey to print at all, sometimes its the first layer, sometimes the 3rd and its driving me nuts as I prefer to print in Grey for some reason.
I’ve tried calibrating the filament, couldn’t get the flow rate print to stick to my textured PEI (white, no issue), levelled the bed, I’ve cleaned the plate, gone up and down the temps for bed and nozzle, tried glue stick (first layer was fine, but failed on 3rd again), dried the filament in the Creality dry box for the reccomended 4 hours at 50c, I’ve refitted the stock hot end as I’d upgraded to a Micro Swiss Flowtech as I thought maybe that was the issue, still no joy…
Question is… Is it possible that some filaments just come out bad from the factory and cannot be worked with no matter what you do? Or is there something else I can do?
Any help would be much appreciated.
I print the white at 220c on a 60c bed and it’s awesome.
Do you get rippling on the first layer? If so the second and third layers will drag on the first and could cause a failure. I would raise the Z offset a fraction to get rid of the rippling. Try dropping the bed temperature 5-10C, 60 can be a little high and cause lifting or other problems.
If it’s really bad I don’t know if 4 hours will be enough…
I’d throw that roll into the dryer for another 8 hours or so. Or overnight to be sure and rule out moisture as the problem.
Do you have any other rolls to try other than the white…?
I’ll give that a try… The dry box gives a live humidity reading, don’t know how accurate obviously, but is there a humidity level to aim for? I wasn’t there when it finished its 4 hour cycle, but it was hovering around the 30% level about midway…
I would be happy with 30%, when mine is not on it normally hovers around the 80% mark (printer is in a wood, in a shed, bottom of a garden, by the sea, in England). With PLA I am ok for no stringing. TPU a little bit sometimes. PETG, even a fresh roll I will get stringing, less at 215C, the higher the temp the more stringing. But none of that affects my bed adhesion, main problem is too much squish on the first layer which has a knock on affect on the next layers. Can always back off the 2nd or 3rd layer by 0.05mm to rescue it.
First layer usually looks ok mostly, not noticed anything odd other than the odd times it has adhesion issues. 2 whole rolls of the white had zero problems, only got this Grey roll of Hyper left.
I was using Sunlu PLA+ on my Ender 3, also with zero issues. Speaking of which, I really like the Sunlu PLA+, have you had any experience with the Sunlu at speed on the K1 or should it be slowed down to the recommended Sunlu speed. (can’t remember off hand what it is, but it ain’t 300mm/s).
Kinda like the speed of the K1, which is one of the reasons I chose it.
Not on a K1 but I use Sunlu most of the time on all my printers. Seems quite happy on my KE which is nearly as fast a machine. How about running at 50% and see if there is a fail and then ramp up from there? Speed is good for prototypes but if want a real nice print slower is better.
If I am running a full bed of parts for a production run I really don’t mind the belt and braces for a glue stick, better to have 30 good parts than them in the bin. The bed is perfectly level, but there might be a temperature gradient that makes the outer most parts lift. I am no snob and I do like the dead cheap Tesco sticks rather than some of the expensive ones. Tried hairspray, might smell nice but not great for adhesion. I avoid glue stick on the Ender 5 plus, the bed is too big to put in the sink.
Hey, you gotta do what you gotta do. I have no issues having to use it. just up until now, never had to. These textured PEI plates have been doing the trick. Ive done some full scale helmets with no issues with adhesion.
I prefer Fysetc PEI plates, seem a little more grippy than the Creality plates. Not tried grey PLA but when I used some Flashforge burnt titanium i had to up the print temperature by 5-10C to get it to be reliable. Perhaps upping the temperature might help.
