I’ve been using this Ender-3 Max printer for several years now and recently the prints have been coming off with layers that are not sticking to the previous layers. Running the same object again does not result in the error occurring in the same location. This problem happens to everything I print. I’ve tried changing print temperatures within the PLA’s limits and tweaking profile things like wall thickness. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions would be welcomed!
Here is the technical info for my setup and a couple of pics are attached of my latest failed print.
Computer:
Windows 10 Pro
Version 22H2
OS Build 19045.4651
Slicer:
Creality Slicer
version: 4.8.2-279
Printer:
Marlin
Ver 1.0.1.11
Sep 3 2021
Ender-3 Max
Printer Parameters per manual:
Model:Ender-3 Max
Print size:300x300x340mm
Molding tech:FDM
Layer thickness:0.1mm-0.4mm
Nozzle dia.:Standard 0.4mm
xy axis precision:±0.1mm
Filament:1.75mm PLA
Print speed:<=180mm/s
Bei welcher Temperatur druckst du? Wie hast du die Kühlung eingestellt?
The first layer was printed at 215 the remaining layers at 210. Previous failed prints were at 220/215. I do not understand the question regarding cooling. I’m not aware of a parameter for cooling.
What temp is the buildplate? Looking at the elephants foot splaying it could be a little warm. Seems you have some layer shifting, check the belt tensions and any eccentric wheels are tight. The gap I am not sure about, a cold draught?
The buildplate temp is set at 60. I have the magnetic sheet upgrade rather than the glass bed if that makes a difference. Would having the nozzle set too close to the bed cause elephants’ foot too? I use a sheet of paper but perhaps I set it too tight?
I will go through belt tensioning and wheel set adjustments again to try to resolve the layer shifting. The shifting doesn’t seem to favour one axis, so I didn’t think about tensions.
I will need to experiment with an enclosure. The printer is located on an open landing on a second-floor staircase. There are certainly air currents present. Cold or warm could still contribute to printing problems.
Thanks for the feedback!
Problem(s) Solved!
As I checked the belt tensions, I found a bad bearing in the eccentric wheel of the nozzle carriage. Wheel replacement solved the layer shifting problem.
For the gap problem, I tried different print temperatures, thorough cleaning of the flexible build plate, printing on a raft and in a trial enclosure. The enclosure made things worse, so air currents are not a factor in this location. I noticed that the print was warping off the build plate as the model was printed.
I decided to try a different filament thinking there might be something wrong with the yellow I was using. Was it defective or had it picked up moisture? As I pulled it off, I saw it was PETG! How did I get PETG in my stock of filament? I don’t know, I only use PLA with the bed temperature at 60 and layers at 220/215. The print range of PETG is 230-260 and the bed range is 70-80. No wonder it wasn’t sticking to the bed and the layers weren’t setting.
So, nicely tuned printer, a good bearing on the nozzle carriage eccentric wheel, the correct filament, the proper settings, and I’m back to making beautiful parts!
