Ender 3...no suffix


First post here; trying to learn where to post.
I recently acquired a used Ender 3. There’s no suffix to that model number on the data plate. It seems that the ‘S1’ is a different model, but I haven’t been able to verify that. Is this correct sub-forum to discuss issues? I’m trying to determine which accessories, mods, etc work with this model vs the seeming dozens of Ender 3 variants.
Thanks for any assistance.

Someone might be able to identify it from a photo of both the printer and the nameplate.

Here’s the dataplate. The printer itself looks like any other base Ender 3 you’d find on an older youtube video, with the addition of a CR-touch sensor. I’ll head back to the workshop in a few minutes to get an overall pic, if needed.
Thanks for the quick response!

Anything might be a help :+1:

Overall shot. The CR-touch is lying on top of the rail because I’ve been looking at the hotend, trying to determine the most affordable path to making this a 300 degree machine. I put the heatshield back on so the printer would look more or less stock.
edit: The belt tensioners and the filament guide pulley obviously were added by the previous owner; not original parts.

Update: after looking at lots of web images and this article which compares the 3 & 3 pro, it is not a 3 pro, and it’s not an S1, so we’re pretty much down to it being an original 3.

So… Since there doesn’t seem to be a sub-forum for it, is this the place?

You’ll be fine posting here. Not a problem… Eventually we’ll figure out what your mystery machine is… :face_with_monocle:

I agree it does look like the original Ender 3 in the Ender series as the first one had a motherboard cooling fan facing up. The later ones have it facing down so no filament gets caught in it.

Yes, that looks to be the Original Ender-3

Yeah OG ender 3. I would recommend pulling the plate off to check your board they shipped with a couple of versions of 8 bit and 32 bit boards with the upward fan I would lean towards the 8 bit.

Most hotends will fit that ender backplate happily I would go dragonfly or microswiss, I’ve had bad times with spiders

Thanks to everyone in helping to verify the model.
It seems highly likely that this is the earliest version, with an 8bit motherboard; the electronics squeaks, honks and plays tunes while printing. :wink: I’m guessing that any significant mods to it are going to require a MB change; is that likely?

My primary goal at the moment is to enable 300 degree printing at the lowest reasonable investment. Anyone know whether the Marlin version on these really old MBs can be altered to run at higher temps? Or failing that, will they run Klipper?

Both supported but from memory you need a bootloader for some of them. Best pulling off the case and taking a look before you do anything as you need to know anyway.

Thanks for prodding me out of my laziness. Just took a look, and miracle of miracles; it’s a V4.2.2 with an ARM STM32F103 processor. I feel like I should quote Captain Renault in the casino scene in Casablanca.

So…32 bit MB. Cheapest path to 300 degrees? If I can just fix Marlin’s max temp setting, I’d be happy to keep it for now & just swap for a reasonable alternative hotend. (Recommendations?)

I was hoping I could solve both the direct drive & hotend issues with the Biqu H2 500c, but after reading a bit about installing one, it doesn’t look exactly plug & play. I can print or fab up the hardware end and connectors, but its control needs (plug-on driver boards, etc) look to be beyond what even the 32 bit Creality board can handle.

For me microswiss has always been solid for me.

Yeah just grab the config for that board and set up with a bigger max temperature. Maybe check out 3dp rescue they may already have one built for it.

Thanks for the tip on 3dp rescue; took a look but they seem to be focused on using facebook and I’m focused on not (no account).
In case it’s not blatantly obvious, this is my 1st foray into 3D printer alterations. The previous owner had added a CR-touch (working fine) and various mechanical bits, but the Marlin firmware is 1.1.2. While stumbling around various forums, I was pointed to the Creality software/firmware page for the Ender 3. I found a .bin file there named ’ Ender-3 4.2.2mainboard–High Temperature Full Hotend Kit firmware’ dated 15 jun 2021, and another named ‘Ender-3 Marlin2.0.6 CR-touch or BLtouch firmware’ dated 5 aug 2021.
Now, remembering that ‘I am only an egg’, I’m not going to be able to ‘just grab a config’ etc without a bit of schooling. Any clue whether either or both of these files will do me any good? Could/should either (or both) be loaded on the printer using the process of putting them on a TF card and booting the printer? Unfortunately, there are no release notes for either of these files. I have no idea whether they’re intended to be a full firmware replacement, or an update to the old 1.1.2, or just a method to help me brick the printer. -)

As reminder, the near-term goal is to simply install a functioning 300 degree hotend at minimum effort/expense, and hopefully, retain the CR-touch functionality.
If there’s a simpler path I’m listening, but I’ll need some novice-level guidance to get there.
Thanks again to all for the help.

First one will be your course of action then mate. High temp is for the spider hotend from memory

You can flash both. Just remember to change the file name to FirmwareXXX.bin where XXX is a number that hasn’t been used to flash before.

Sorry to be away so long; many distractions.
When you say ‘you can flash both’, are you saying that one will add features to the other, or are you saying that I can flash either, and get that one’s features?

Sorry if the question seems dense, but I’m starting at zero with firmware manipulation, and just about everything online assumes working knowledge as a starting point.

I mean you can flash both to the board with little ill affects test and flash the other if it’s not doing what it needs eg. Probe off the bed due to offset issue (can be adjusted in some firmwares via menus

Got it. Thanks for the info.