Creality suggests connecting light bar to power strip. I noticed that the CoreXZ board has a connector labeled LED. Anyone know if this source would power the LED light bar and allow control from Creality Print? Thanks
I wonder if that is for the LED on the extruder for the Creality label that lights up…
I’m guessing they suggested a separate power strip is that the machine has just enough power (350 Watts) for itself.
Any extra lines tapping off the power supply could cause an issue…
Sorry, I wasn’t clear. The auxiliary LED light is powered from the 24v contacts on the power distribution strip inside the printer. However while there, I noticed that the motherboard, has a connector port that is labeled “LED”. I haven’t found any reference to this in creality documentation. I was asking if anyone knows if that port might be for a LED light that could be controlled on/off from the device control within the slicer. I’m hoping for someone with specific knowledge of this board or has tried it and has first hand knowledge.
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Indeed. A word of caution for ANYONE looking for making mods of your wonderful toy…
I carbonized the power terminals on my V2’s original Mainboard with the quest I’ve set myself upon for 3D printing. There’s not a lot of margins for anything other than the power ratings of the devices they picked there.
The bed heater will be the dominant one. Once I get back to trying to build out my V2 to be almost as stock tricked out as the V3’s I’ll be adding an AC powered bed heater/bed to the machine and controlling it from the power feed for the factory bed heater so that when I drive the HF or the HTF REVO cores from H3D, at 60 watts the poor steppers won’t have a stroke (Brownout) causing evil bad layer shifts.
There are no margins in the system directly. You want to drive external power supplies as cleanly as you can here.
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You probably won’t get much for this model…YET… Too new.
You’re kind of in a similar boat to me. I want to print something…well…insane…and the V3 can actually step up to the plate to print it fairly reliably in an enclosure better than their Zipper-bag one…so long as you have a bed temp of 120 or better. I swapped out the stock bed heater and my Revo CR stock core for a High-flow 60W core. Some 100W beyond the original design. It…sort-of…worked… I was being lazy and didn’t really design the mods. Just bought stuff off Amazon and bolted it right on.
You will NOT be using the silicone peel-n-stick on 24v heaters on any Enders as a stock item. They exceed the design by about 60-70W of power. The 60w heater core pushes it really to the limit of the rating of the PSW…but under the right conditions, you will brown-out printing anything but the usual suspects. It’ll let you print PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA…but you will have off-and-on pain with Nylon and Polycarbonate…