Hmmm…The temperature test shouldn’t have much flow for the filament going to it. In my opinion I like 5.1 better for the version. Alright, I had to think about this a bit. Make sure that the firmware on the printer is up-to-date. Next is the nozzle. The printer should have came with a bunch of tools and extra nozzles and hot-ends that came with it.
-My first thing would be looking at the filament. Look up the specs on it and see what it says might be something you will need to do to put into the calibration to make sure it works right.
-Second is to clean out the nozzle. Turn on the heat to the nozzle to 240 C if you are using PLA and push the plastic out of the nozzle with a tool (The tool looks like a very stiff wire with a ring on the end. I don’t know what it is called.) that should have come with the printer by pushing it down the extruder, forcing the plastic to go out of the nozzle clearing out any clog. Make sure you clean the tool off of the plastic or it gets stuck on it. I had to use a lighter to get the plastic off the tool. But I would never do this now and would go to the next step skipping the second step.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPBwfqxjMCQ
-The next step I would replace the nozzle because it once it clogs, it keeps clogging. Which is why I would skip the second step. So up to you of what you what to do. But when you replace the nozzle make sure you use the thermal paste that comes with the extra stuff when you got the printer and replace the nozzle by heating up the nozzle on the hot-end and remove it. The printer might freak out when you do this but make sure you heat up the nozzle before removing it and installing a new one. You might need to turn it on and off a couple of times to do that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mn-cziNwphg&t=238s
Before you do any of this, tell me what filament you are using. That might help me tell you what you need to look for on it. But if you can’t wait, all this I would do first. But if it clogs again, it isn’t the nozzle. But I am fairly curtain it is.
I really appreciate your help…I replaced the nozzle but i didnt use the thermal paste when I installed. Im using the PLA filament that came with the package deal I bought the K1C, the dual spool dryer and a couple of large spools of filament.
Im thinking maybe start from scratch, replace the nozzle again and follow all the steps, re-run all calibrations and pray. this has been beyond frustrating but Im not giving up. Im not settling for a $600 paperweight
Make sure you follow my instructions that I have on replacing the nozzle. I have a couple of guesses if it is still giving you troubles. I know that there is a multiplier somewhere for the filament, I don’t know if that is the issue. I never had over extrusion issues like what is going on here. Normally if I get over extrusion it would start clicking. Not like what you got.
As I think of it. I think I might know the issue now. It is a hunch though. I do have the upgrade from the volcano nozzles and hotends to the Unicorn hotends and nozzles like you have. I have found an interesting flaw in it which did make me go back to the volcano model. When I tried to replace the Unicorn nozzle once it was used up too much, I took the nozzle out and the hotend became incredibly loose. I hated that and switched back to the Volcano. With the pictures up above with @Krashdog it is in that exact spot that I was thinking about it. I am wondering if this is the result I kind of foresaw. I am going to locate my Unicorn model and play with a bit. I will let you know what the results are.
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You really need to upgrade to Creality Print 6.0 They actually fixed a bunch of stuff.
Alright, it is exactly what I was thinking. The loose hotend is the issue and can cause breakage if not careful. I swapped the nozzle that I had on my Unicorn model and it came out easy. But putting in a new one was a bit of a pain like the nozzle wouldn’t turn on, I tried other nozzles and that was a pain as well. But this picture when you are putting in a new nozzle shows where the breakage is caused if not careful enough.
The copper piece that is right above it goes into the silver heatsink and there is enough room to slide around within that spot. But if you are turning the nozzle on, you will need to make sure you keep it straight when putting it on or it will break in that area.
Next is you need to make sure everything is on tight. If running the machine it does that, it means the hotend and nozzle was not on tight enough and it can break that way in that spot as well. There should be no wobble in the end.
I did and still have issues
Ok, so this makes sense…I may just go back to the original nozzle and see if that solves it…do I use the thermal paste on the threading before it goes in?