Filament blob on K1C, how to repair?

[Joob]

Hi all, Ive just run into the infamous BLOB on my K1C. I was doing a tricky print and only caught it about 20 minutes into the print.

Ive look everywhere online and cannot seem to find what would be the best course of action to get my printer running again.

I started to disassemble the head to to a manual clean out of all the parts with heat but it seems creality does not want me to go any further than taking the fan cover off as all the connections have this silicone-like glue holding them in place.

My questions are:

1. Is this the best course of action to save my little K1C from THE BLOB?
2. Should I battle the connector glue to remove them?
3. What is the best way to remove said connector glue?
4. If needed what parts do I need to replace?

I will attatch pictures of the even below, the black is the fillament and the offwhite paste is the connector glue im talking about.

Also would this fall under any sort of warranty replacement or is this expected printer repairs?

[Bejing_Corn]

I think the glue is only for Creality to be triple sure that the connections won’t fall out during fast prints. When I disassembled it the glue was not really strong abut the actual connector is a bit stubborn. If the blob was really bad then you probably would just need a replacement hotend.

[The_wandering_Edd]

I have a similar, but worse situation. Second time.

[MineralMike]

@Joob

• Should I battle the connector glue to remove them?
• What is the best way to remove said connector glue?

This Creality video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smB-tQzidD0 instructs you to use the filament cutter to remove the “glue” before unplugging cables. Yes, it is applied to prevent the connectors from loosening, but in my experience, those tiny connectors, hold pretty well without glue.

If you’re concerned, you could apply a bit of Amazing Goop or similar adhesive after reassembling the connectors.

— Mike

[For_Ward]

I am not a professional. Far from it actually but…

1. remove the hotend
2. boil it or just heat it to remove the excess blobbing
3. I see a lot of people in the 3D Printing world get blobs at times

Although, I do not think this is a Creality concern, I may just be wrong. I had some issues at first before updating/upgrading (OTA stuff) and some issues of my own with not allowing the heated bed to become cool before trying to handle it and remove the print.

But yea…

The boards should not get hard-to-remove PLA or PETG or whatever filament you are using on them. That would be sort of a pain to get cleaned up and removed properly.

But yea…I do not think Creality with their branding and pure, excited nature in the industry would consider this a warranty thing. So, heads up.

Steam works too. If you have a steamer with a jet stream, remove the nozzle and clean it off and/or heat the nozzle in the GUI on the machine LCD to remove extra-stubborn gunk.

This is normal. I have noticed this idea to be relevant on more machines than not be an issue when trying specific prints. The build up did not seem all that bad actually from the photos.

I like the second photo with heatsink. I was unaware that these machines held a heatsink on the hot ends. Good to know…

I have kept it simple. I print flat bases at times and mostly when trying to build components. This takes out guess work on why the machine may fail to be relevant in use cases. For instance, I needed to make a part for a machine, some walk-behind mower, and used the biggest-most-area-portion of the build to be my base.

With more complicated pieces, this gets harder and harder to have the largest area piece as a base.

Anyway, I hope you can remove the blob orientation without further ripping apart the machine.

I had to get a hard piece of metal once to ram down in the orifice of where the filament gets injected to the hot end for clog removal.

Please keep the post alive to post when you have made some headway on the building around the removal of the blob. I always liked to see how people use the machinery and how they fix the machinery when stubborn things take place.

Anyway, so:

a. nozzle off

• boil

b. nozzle on

• use the GUI on the machine to heat the hot end
• proceed to remove delicately this blob

With the hot end heated properly, the blob should just wipe off.

[For_Ward]

Wild. That is a blob! Man, I have not seen anything like that since my workings in the cartesian field with way older models on builds.

Most cartesian printers are slower giving them more time to create concerns without dedicated monitoring.

I thought these printers had some type of stoppage for the blobs in the camera or in the circuitry. Oh well, I could be wrong.

I had some similar issue. I just heated the hot end to a good temperature and removed the excess.

[Radical_Data]

You might try this as it appears to work…

@Howard_Anstedt

I think the connection between the hot-end heater and the connection within the heat sink is not tight. I am not familiar with this hot-end but most are either the teflon tube is not tight against the nozzle but more likely your heat break is not tightened against your nozzle. I had this issue when I switched to a Slice engineering heat break which tightens against the nozzle. In the long run I purchased a torque tool from them and tightened it up and all was well after that.

But before that I had to get rid of all the oozed filament, even on the threads at the connections. I found an odd trick. NOTE my filament was PLA. I soaked the metal parts in Acetone. It does not dissolve the PLA but rather breaks it down so that anything left over is like dust which can be wipe off easily after it is left to dry.

P.S. Thank you @Howard_Anstedt as I have reposted your idea a few times now.

Cheers.