Will keep this brief this will be my first ever run at printing a large multicolor object. To top it off as I understand it I am not making it easy on myself as I will be hopping between white, dark blue, and orange almost constantly… why start off easy haha.
One of the things that was an early concern as I recall with the K2 Plus seemed to be the amount of bleed/banding particularly when going dark to light colors etc. . But since then there has been alot of software and firmware updates so I thought I would come here and ask the pros what kind of settings I should look at for the multiplier… do I need a prime tower and so on.
Honestly treat me like a 5 year old here I had to look to even figure out where the flushing volumes option was and I have zero idea if the .3 it seems to be set to by default would be adequate or if I should increase it and if so by how much etc.
Thank you in advance for anyone that has a moment to stop by and help me out with this as I really want this to come out looking good.
Wow over 800 views and no one bothered to help in 3 months… well im not here to help either. I just wanted to know did you ever figure it out or preferably have you found a guide somewhere that helps simplify it. Im not new to printing but am search for a short cut… although i realize it will be a bit hit and miss depending on actual color changes. It would be nice to have some magic numbers that are less wasteful and work most of the time without having to do hours of testing
Personally i would make test pieces of the different swaps to see how much the bleeding effects the print and then go on from there.
Prime tower should definitely exist to make sure everything is looking good.
Try something smal and use the colors you want for the big print. With standard values . You can also look at the color gradient of the poop and based on this you can change the purge values. In my experience the standard value is a little high now for colors closer to each other. And not al filament brands are the same. I got some cheap red pla from China that need more then standard purge value to go to white. The elegoo red i got can do it with little lesser then the standard purge.
This is an interesting topic and I hope more people eventually look into this. I’m using a K1 max, and believe it or not, but my default color purge multiplier started at 1.3!!! So I’ve been working backward to see what the best purge multiplier is. Currently, I am using .8 which is quite high for me, but I have no color bleed from blue or black to white, so its ok.
The biggest problem I have is the time it take to do all this. I am currently seeing an average of 2min and 30sec per color change. So, a small model with four colors and 309 color changes takes over 12hrs and 18x more filament!!! wait, what?
I’m running a k2 plus and honestly was frustrated with the amount of wasted filament from flushing between colours. After observing my flushes I noticed that the “old” colour filament was barely visible in the first flush, totally gone by the second but then my printer flushed 2 more times.
I have been playing around with the setting and between the purge tower, flushing to infill and flushing to supports I have got my filament flush down to 0.6 which the Creality Print slicer hates and warns me about it not being enough but honestly I’m not seeing any bleeding of colours or different specs of colours where they shouldn’t be.
Don’t get me wrong thought it needs tweaking now and again especially is I’m going sharp contrasts like white to black but after months of testing I ranger from 0.6 to 0.8 (I have had to go as high as 1.0 twice in 12 months) and honestly that work for me on my printer, still produces a fair amount of waste but not nearly as much.
Has anyone else managed to figure out how to reduce the amount of purging on the start of the print. Since moving to 1.4.11 I have noticed that on the start of a print, even a single colour one the CFS load the filiment and then the printer purges about 5 times.
This is not in the GCODE that the splicer created so it is not a creality print adjustment but perhaps a modification to one of the internal macros on the printer itself.
Since it is the start of the print only it is not a case of waste of filiment but rather a waste of time in my opinion.
Honestly man its been a while since you posted. ive tried the calibration test and half the time can’t get them to print right. ordering is screwed up or what have you, either way. What you do is take your two colors, set them to 0 flush and print a very small cube. At some height in the cube you switch colors. The k2 does some fushing already - i have found going from red to black for instance 0 flush has no bleed. Going from black to red I get some bleed and I simply turn up the numbers. Maybe start around 50 - 100. See what that does for you. going from dark colors to light colors will always need more. But thats the way to do it. uses hardly any filament for the swap. Now i get some people might say just do it in one layer. Thats fine except that in actual prints it will build a tower and some of the flush will go into that tower. So, I think doing it this way uses little filiament and is closer to an actual print.
