I have been working through getting my K1 Max calibrated for a variety of materials. The setup for Generic PLA gives excellent results, but I am struggling with the Hyper PLA settings. I work through the calibration process for it, and select the best results as described in the tutorial. Unfortunately, when I try to print something, the Hyper PLA “tears” the corners of my calibration prints.
The red calibration cats are the Hyper PLA after trying different calibration settings. Note the rough edge on the 90 degree corner. The far right cats are generic and have nice sharp corners. They also only took about 20-25% longer to print, (although some of the settings I tried with the Hyper PLA approached the generic time).
It seems like this material is capable of extreme speed, I am stymied as to the correct settings. Has anyone had good luck with the Hyper PLA?
Thanks for the reply,
No, I used it straight out of the bag from Creatlty and the vacuum seal looked good.
I went with 220C as it was the default… TBH, that was one of the odd things about calibrating the Hyper PLA. It is not really affected by nozzle temperature. The temperature tower looked almost exactly the same from 225C to 200C. I’ve never seen anything like it. (Generic PLA did what you would expect, and I print it at 200C.) Some of the cats are variations in temperature, nothing seemed to really make any difference. I varied volumetric flow between 18 and 20. (Not exactly a scientific study ).
I use the same settings on Creality Print for Hyper and regular PLA. 230°C / 55°C
Just FYI. I got a roll of translucent red from Hatchbox last week sealed up with silica bag in it. Printed poorly and threw it in the dehydrator for 8hours @ 131°F.
Printed good after that.
My color changing desiccant says it’s dry . I recently picked some transparent HP-TPU from Amazon (it WAS on sale). As bizarre as it sounds, this stuff prints really fast and REALLY transparent. (I got better results with the HP-TPU than transparent PETG.)
It’s been a year or better since I tried it, and things change. I found that PLA was more hazy than PETG. PETG isn’t really transparent, more like translucent. The clearest results will be single layer, like vase mode. This is PETG:
Extruder died completely shortly after this, we will see if it was the culprit. Upgraded extruder ordered. (Warrantee??? wait, let me laugh harder )
Hopefully this fixes it.
i have had very little problems with Hyper PLA and Ender PLA on the K1 Max. But, Creality TPU has been a disaster for me. It took me about 15 attempts to make a small little tripod foot… repeatedly stopping extruding, or just printing a mess at about 50% of the way thru, etc.
With Endler PLA, which I’ve started primarily using because of it’s low cost, I’m seeing whispy strands from time to time. Nothing horrible.
i purchased a filament dryer… but this does not seem to make any difference with Ender PLA. I haven’t tried it yet with the TPU.
i’m trying to figure out a better way to make sure thin tall prints (3mm deep, very tall, lithophanes) and large flat bottom and tall sides (box like objects) stay attached to the print bed. For lithophanes printed with a brim, I’m starting with gluestick, but then along the way, I have to add painters tape over the brim as the brim starts to let go. For the box like objects, glue stick is working… but I can’t get the gluestick residue off afterward. I’ve tried alcohol, nail polish remover, lighter fluid, warm water, etc. The only thing that works is an electric sander, but this generally makes for a poor feeling surface in the process.
Overture PETG is supposed to be the most transparent. I bought some but haven’t tried it yet. I’m still trying to figure out how to print black lettering on top of a clear print (to make a ruler for example). I read in the notes for the most recent K1 Max firmware or Creality Print update (can’t recall which), that support for raising the Z axis position for the start of a print was doable, but I can’t find anything about how to do this or where to set this.
Wouldn’t you be able to print like a 2 color…? Start with clear and then change the filament manually like I did in this print…?
You might be talking about something different…
Yes that’s what I want to achieve. I read that you now insert a filament change command into Creality Print project, at a specific layer, but that from what I understand it doesn’t actually work yet… ignored by the printer firmware. It’s near impossible to get any answer back from Creality unfortunately you these kinds of things.
When you say manually… do you mean that you manually pause at the printer controls, or in Creality Print somehow while it’s doing a print? If so, are you just monitoring the layer position and doing your best to time the pause?
I just look at the slicer results and see what layer I need to hit pause. As you stated it doesn’t work in the slicer settings. I have to hit pause on the printer itself.
Then I change the color.
It is in the Creality Print software under “Calibration”. There is a tutorial, that explains it all in the menu options. It is one of the reasons I use CP, crippled though it is… . You can have presets for a fair number of different materials. For the TPU it was the Creality HP-TPU, which has a preset in the K1. (Preset worked pretty well, but was much improved after the “calibration”.
Have you considered editing the gcode with some kind of GUI? You could edit it as text, but that would be pretty hardcore…
I know it is possible, and fairly simple, to inject a pause into gcode.
BTW, don’t know if this is common knowledge, CP generates standard text gcode, just like Cura, and all the rest. There is just a low res image at the start of the file that looks like binary. You can skip past it.
).
. I recently picked some transparent HP-TPU from Amazon (it WAS on sale). As bizarre as it sounds, this stuff prints really fast and REALLY transparent. (I got better results with the HP-TPU than transparent PETG.)
. You can have presets for a fair number of different materials. For the TPU it was the Creality HP-TPU, which has a preset in the K1. (Preset worked pretty well, but was much improved after the “calibration”.