I was trying to print some sims for the K1 bed but they keep coming off the bed, earlier today I had to abort a fan cover when a corner warped off the bed. I set the bed temperature to 60°C and printed the sims again while measuring the bed temperature: First layer no side fan display shows bed temperature at 60° but the non-contact infrared thermometer shows 48°, when the side fan turns on the first 30mm of the bed drops to 43°C.
When they quote a temperature for the filament is that to be the temperature of the heating pad or the top of the bed?
Generally I find that bed temps of 50 or lower work best. The transition temperature of PLA is around 50-55c so if the bed is too warm the filament is not cooling adequately before the next layer is being laid meaning there is a possibility for warping.
The temperatures on the filament spools is generally a guideline as all printers/environments can cause different results at different temperatures. Its always wise to print a temperature tower to find the best temperature for your filament.
The bed temperature on the filament is just a general guideline temperature and is usually what you would set your bed temperature to on the printer and not what an IR sensor would pick up.
You may also find that using brims or mouse ears brims would help prevent prints from lifting off the bed and warping. Most slicers have the options for brims but I think OrcaSlicer is currently the only one with the option of mouse ear type brims.
After two days and 500 meters of filament I have yet to have ‘elehants foot’ at 67°C and when the build plate cools the parts fall off. The Hyper PLA spool says 25°~60°C so I’m at the top end and the results are perfect, smooth and flawless. I was wondering if I would be ablle to print Creality Hyper ABS at100°C bed temperature with the 17°C off set means 117°C, when I tried to set the temperature to 117 in Creality Print the display set it self to 105 no matter what I typed in, the results were 82°C measured bed temperature NOT 105°C.
You can pretty much use any bed temperature that gives you good results. The info on the spools is purely a guideline and you are free to test outside of these ranges for best results.
As far as I know the K1 build plate max temp is 100c and the K1 Max max temp used to be 120c but has since been reduced to 100c too. This is likely to prevent damage to the magnet as if heated too hot for long periods the magnetism of the bed/plate would deteriorate.
There will always be variations in the temperature between the sensor and the bed surface itself as the temperature sensor is in a static position underneath the bed meaning it reads the temperature from one location which is on the underside of the heated plate closer to the heater than the build plate which is on the other side of the heated bed.