Hi all,
Just got my K1 Max today, and have printed a couple of things now and am impressed by the speeed / quality. I can print a part quicker on the K1 max at 0.2mm than I could a t 0.35 on my old (Dremel) machine.
One question I have about the print bed is that like the Dremel the K1 needs glue on the printbed for adhesion. The manual mentions this, what it doesn’t however say is how much coverage and how often I need to reapply?
Cheers.
Phill.
Hello @PhillHS… 
Welcome to the Creality Forum…! 
Using PLA and a textured build plate:
Lot of variables here but basically you shouldn’t need glue as long as the build plate is clean with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol and good dish soap)
Try keeping the plate clean and the heated bed (60°C) will help hold the model in place. As soon as the plate cools off the model just slides off…
I’ve noticed some printers have uneven heating on the plates so that could cause a problem.
Keeping the nozzle where it should above the plate (Z axis) will help push the gooey plastic down where it will stick better also…
Glue can be used if nothing else works…
If you have a store called Tesco they have a home office glue stick that is cheap and super tacky. I do admit to using it even though the bed is dialled in, belts and braces for really big that I can’t afford to lose. Easily washable too.
I’ve been using the supplied glue stick (yellow tube) on mine.
Depending on what I’m printing and how much of the build plate I’m using governs how much area I cover, I usually do a simple zig zag pattern (like a printer’s first layer) with gentle pressure to leave a very thin even coat without overlapping.
I usually get a few prints before needing to clean and reapply but If I’m doing anything that is likely to have adhesion issues I’ll clean and reapply between every batch.
Cleaning wise, I clean the build plate with glass cleaner and a paper towel to remove any old glue.
Edit to add: I usually run the plate at 45C for PLA
Ive had big problems using a pie texture plate, someone said use 60c on the bed, yes it worked thst model, but then a tyny model just curled at the ends.
Not used the original A plate, so i coverd it with glue, printed 6 hyper pla tokens (- now they are stuck cant get them off? Under a hot tsp eith s scrapper, it was very hard to get them off, what can you do, all these settings, each time you try a new model
Was the original plate polycarbonate? When the print sticks to that it is really difficult to remove without damaging the plate, took a chunk out of mine. Stick with the PEI, get the Z-offset tuned in, lower the bed temp 5C, keep the glue if you want,
Original is what comes with the printer, the type A plate, ive used one before, has a lot of problems after 2 weeks old. Everybody shouting use a PEI texture plate, no glue needed, so got a double sided one off ebay, great for a month,
sometime between then and now, sent K1 Max back, extruder no longer working.
Now finally the new sales have the new extruder and the quick change nozzel, once again after 2 weeks started have problems, this time flat models like a toolbox, printing flat lid, then almost straight away, starts curling at the ends.
Got in contact with creality via Facebook chat, guy says leave the lid off, open the door if you use any sort of pla.
Didnt work, so read others switching hotbed to 60c, i printed a large Rhino articulated, didnt get far, it curled within few minutes, then i added a raft, as last it worked, but that was just for that model.
Did a test modal i made 270mm long, 25mm wide, 5mm deep, finally it printed right to the end, but when i took it off, it was bent. 
Almost fell off, very loose.
So back to a new un opend A plate, put some glue on it, printed trolly tokens like a uk pound coin, had 6 in a row, printed great, never moved a bit, but like i said, when i tried to get them off, stuck on like superglue ,
so under a hot water tap, finally got them off, cleaned the plate, more glue, this time 24 trolly tokens, i thought i try the metal scrapper to easy them off, they all game off, but the scraper damidged the plate, scratches where i had lifted each token.
So never use metal again,
the plastic scrapper was useless, wouldnt budge any. So after i got them off with all those scratches, i used an electric polishing mop that didnt work
A plate these are powder coated are they not,? I do have another, but reluctant to use it with glue again…
Wish i had stayed with a Tina2s never had any problems, also sent back a Qidi Q1 Pro, bed was all overbthe place,vold firmware tells you how to level the bed, but new firmware, says no dint do that,bits has auto bed leveling
PEI plates should be washed in washing up liquid every so often, then dried, then a good wipe down with isopropyl (IPA). That should print fine. Wipe down with isopropyl before each print. Every 10 or so prints repeat the washing process, IPA etc. If you use glue stick you don’t need to wipe down with IPA each time but still keep up the washing routine. I don’t know anyone that likes the original plates, they used them on the Ender 3 V3 SE too, quickly binned in favour of PEI. I use Fysetc plates on all my machines, no problems, well apart from the big plates on the Ender 5 plus, they don’t fit in the sink 
If you get the Z offset right you won’t need glue, but it is a handy belt and braces sometimes.
Been there tried it, got the t shirt, nothing new, this isnt my first k1 max, its the third 
but we wont count the one that arrived smashed in bits. So i spent a month with the first k1 max, plate A (polycarbonate) was great for 2 weeks, then things stopped sticking. So quickly leaned about these textured plates, again the new PEI didnt last long before getting problems with models not sticking .
Isopropyl , once more i learned people were using this, so bought some, like i said it seams i start having problems after sbout 2 weeks using a new plate.
I have the K1C, I use cheap Sauve 8 unscented hairspray from Amazon for glue on the smooth plate. For the textured “B” plate I normally don’t use glue. If I don’t use some sort of glue on the smooth plate, I have a harder time releasing some models. I use Isopropyl 99% alcohol for cleaning when it looks like it needs it. The alcohol hasn’t affected either of the plates at all in the six months I’ve had the printer, probably 300-400 prints of various sizes.
I actually bought extra plates after reading all the stories about plates getting destroyed here, but they’re still sitting around unused.
I have 2 plates in use, one on the printer and swap it when a print finishes. I can continue printing whilst the other print cools or when the other plate is being washed/dried. Even my Ender 5 plus has a spare bed. I use glue if I am doing overnight prints, just to make sure or if I am printing TPU, that stuff doesn’t half stick to a plain PEI plate, glue is a release agent, I use a cheap glue stick from Tesco, I’ll get a got dozen or so prints before washing.
Yep, I find the glue is more of a release agent than glue. Stuff sticks to the smooth plate better than I sometimes want, the hairspray allows me to get it off easier.
I like the hairspray simply because it’s so easy to apply, a few waves of the can and the plate is covered in seconds.
I don’t really have a sense for the exact number of prints before washing, I just eyeball it and wash when it seems like a good idea. Again, a paper towel with alcohol and in a few seconds I’m ready to go. I buy the 99% Isopropyl alcohol on Amazon by the gallon, it’s shipped in four quart bottles. It’s pretty cheap that way, and it lasts a long time, still have over half of what I bought and I’ve been printing up a storm for six months.
A good wipe down with IPA before every print is good too, though if it is still hot it can be a bit overpowering. Tried hairspray but I think I got the wrong brand as it would release halfway through a print. We are also confusing over here, we buy beer in pints, petrol in gallons but IPA in litres.
This is the stuff I use, someone that had been using it for years turned me on to it. It’s worked pretty well for me.
Lol reminds me of the ultra hold stuff I bought in the 80’s, think it was called Cossack. Was great for when I was going through Glam Metal {Motley Crue/Poison} phase…oh to be 18 again.
On your recommend I got a bottle of the non-aerosol version at the local Wally World quite cheap. Will test soon… 
I’m past the time when I need hairspray! 
I never saw the non-aerosol packaging. I like the spray because it’s fast and easy. 
Yep, I looked and found that. I suppose that will do the same thing, just happened on the aerosol cans first.
