Have you tried doing a factory reset? and made sure your storage is not close to full?
I have .34 on my k1max and it has been printing perfectly no offset change or anything. Also did you do a calibration after the update? it now has a PA and Flow calibration too, i have these turned off though as when you send a print from creality print and the calibration is turned on, it does these tests which take up a lot of the bed space as well as causes issues if you are using 2 different filaments with different pa’s and flow
I hadn’t done a factory reset, but I had plenty of storage space. After the upgrade, the self-test went off automatically, and I ran it several times. Now that I’m back to .33, everything works great again, so I’ll skip this upgrade.
I have the K1 Max (not rooted) with CFS and did the same but went back to .33. I print a lot of ABS and I have a heated chamber, and always let the bed soak at print temp to settle the warping. But with .34 it would drop the bed temp to clean the nozzle so defeated the soaking to settle the bed. Dont know why they did that.
Indeed, I noticed that too and it is very annoying that the bed first cools down to 50 degrees (which also takes a very long time) and then it seems as if the bed mesh is not being read, even a small object goes completely wrong.
Thinking about this, because the bed on the K1s are so thin they warp so much with temperature changes, it seems like Creality are saying that this printer is suitable for PLA only, hence the 50C bed temp for auto levelling. So at the present time I have a choice, use .34 and print PLA only or use .33 and have no purge line. I have been a great supporter of Creality over the years but they test my patience with these kind of mistakes. Come on Creality, get with the project and focus!!
I’m back to .33 and everything works flawlessly again. Except for the screen that randomly turns off, but I’m used to that. The thin bed is indeed a disaster, and I’m considering buying the R3men Graphite Bed.
In the interests of accuracy, I was wrong in my post about .33 with no purge line. It created a purge line but it did not extrude down that line. I know know that it didn’t extrude because I wasn’t purging the first filament correctly. So apologies Creality my bad. But your .34 firmware is still useless for high temp filaments.
Yep, me too. I have been resisting rooting my printer but I am over the thin alloy bed. So it looks like a graphite bed is the go but I will then need to root to change the thermistor settings. Oh well.
My K1 max is rooted, but that is mainly because I provide my filament with RFID via the app on my phone and can also add that material to the printer, works perfectly.
OK, having had enough of the original 3mm wobbly bed I have now installed the R3MEN graphite bed on my K1 Max, along with the solid state relay provided. I have gone back to the solid bed mounts provided, and leveled using the shims provided. I am still using .33 firmware and it is now printing well, from the side spool holder or the CFS. Interestingly when I tested the bed before I fully installed it the motherboard fan was disconnected and the bed temperature reading on the screen was negative. However when I plugged in all fans it now reads correctly on the screen. The bed is definitely much flatter at any temp and the bed mesh is now good as tested with a first layer. But the actual bed temp is consistently 10C lower than the set temp (100C v 110C set for ABS). R3MEN say you need to run a bed PID calibration using a Gcode command through the console. Does anyone know how to run such a command on a nonrooted K1 Max? Thanks