K1 start g-code causes unacceptable damage to rear of PEI "A Plate" bed

@Johan_Degraeve, I can only refer you to the image I posted.
Now that I have examined it more closely, the words “dent” and “gouge” are probably an exaggeration. A better description would have been ‘impression’ and ‘scratch’. When I say ‘impression’ I mean the nozzle is leaving a circular ‘impression’ in the PEI plate every time it does the WIPE action, but the location may not always be in exactly the same position. But when it does hit the same spot repeatedly (say 50 times), the ‘impression’ left by the nozzle gets bigger/deeper. It’s way too shallow to be measured with calipers, but I can certainly feel it with my finger (the image I posted can’t convey the texture you feel with your finger), I would need some kind of laser surface scanner, or even better, an electron microscope, to get an accurate 3D surface profile.
They have put a silicone wiping strip on the K1C and Bambu Lab’s A1 Mini for a reason.

Hi,
Yes, it is normal. I have it too. You can however glue a teflon piece in place: The nozzle will not get deeper since the buildplate will stop to raise once it touches the nozzle. Anyway, it is absolutely no problem as long as your prints stay nice, and the nozzle is not flattened. (the nozzle will flatten if you print a lot of carbon fiber). This movement wipes the outlet of the nozzle clean and eventual residual stings will fall off. Suppressing this feature (it’s in the firmware) is not advised. I started 3D printing 15 years ago, and all you need to know is how to remove the hotend, nozzle, grease the spindle rods, clean the gears, use the glue, keep your machine clean, and out of any living quarters.
The printers have evolved the last 3 years due to the upcoming success of MSLA printers, and the BambuLab’s arrival has shifted the success more to Filament printers. (I have 4 MSLA and 5 Filament printers, all for functional parts, not for the fun) As of now, I can only say the BambuLab is the best, the K1Max, is my second best, will by the Creality K2plus combo, which will become the best… I used to tamper a lot with the firmwares, but this is not needed anymore, AI is improving as are the updates for printers…

I wish you all the best, and no worries.
johan

@Johan_Degraeve, I appreciate your words of wisdom. It sounds like you have 3D printing in your blood now :smiley:. The Ender 3 V2 was my first printer and it is still there as a backup in case the K1 is out of action, like a few weeks ago when the K1’s hot end failed (a ceramic heater wire came adrift).

The K1 is great because I can print ABS and other high temperature filaments, but I’m still frustrated by the lack of accuracy. A 99.3% accuracy in the X & Y axis is not good enough for my engineering parts, so I’ve had to resort to using the Ender 3 V2, with PLA, to get the accuracy I need, just for prototypes. Maybe I have to slow down the K1 to get better accuracy? I’ve tried setting the Shrinkage factor, but that doesn’t seem to work. I’ve also tried scaling the model in Creality Print before I slice it, but that doesn’t improve things much. Maybe I have to Root it and run Fluid or Mainsail?

There’s another topic on this forum about the K1’s accuracy problem, which I’ve commented on, but no one seems to have come up with a good answer yet.

Cheers,