Downloaded file: CrealityPrint_6.0.1.1375_Release
Computer is running: Windows 7 Ultimate, and I have a second with Windows 7 Professional
Things that would be useful to have or to know:
- A previous version of Creality Print would be nice to experiment with, in case the latest version is buggy (mine seems to be, at least for my computer setup);
- For Win 7, I could not get the slicer to run, and was getting a .dll file missing notice. I tried a number of things, and was considering re-installing the entire machine setup when I happened edit port with the same issue, which said right click the Creality icon on the desktop, and click, “Troubleshoot Compatibility”. That worked. I have not found a similar instruction that would help the Cura slicer start up;
- I tried the slicer on Windows 7 Professional, and it started without having to Troubleshoot compatibility;
- The CMS did not read the type of filament for the red PLA that came with the printer. I believe this may be because the flange of the PLA reel was deformed from shipping (tight packaging). I programmed it in at the machine, and have not had a problem since (several complete power downs). It is possible the flange relaxed back far enough for the RFID tag to be read properly after the initial trouble;
- Opening the Creality slicer gives me a message, “Do you want to allow the following program from and unknown publisher to make changes to your computer?”. This happens each time I open the slicer. This is annoying, and should not happen more than once in my lifetime;
- I work on a laptop with auto screen dimming. Whenever Windows dims my screen, I get a message that the program stopped working, and inevitably I am required to close the slicer and start it again. The same message happens on occasion even without screen diming. The message is, “CrealityPrint has stopped working. Windows can check online for a solution to the problem” with the choices of check online or close the program. After checking online for a solution, the program then closes itself;
- The slicer closes itself with no obvious trigger;
- If the model is oriented to see the bottom, and you press, “Slice plate”, the slicer window disappears and you need to restart;
- The slicer terminates when the model has been painted with a support surface and you have pressed, “Slice plate”;
- Switching between windows terminates the slicer;
- There is no help menu in the slicer, nor a link to a tutorial on how to use it. There should be a visible help button (top right is my favorite spot);
- Once the model is sliced, there does not appear to be a way to save the sliced model;
- The IP address for the machine needs to be entered each time the slicer is used;
- I don’t know how to send files to a printer that is not turned on. Can my computer have them in a queue that starts up when the printer is turned on? My laser paper printer works that way;
- Removal of the camera lens cap is not in the instructions prior to startup;
- In my house, the wifi connectivity is suitable for transferring print files, but the camera link does not work. I will be looking into a hardwire Ethernet link as a result;
- Is it possible to provide reduced fidelity, lapse time, or buffering of video to allow for weak or slow wifi or IP connections?;
- Was able to successfully print my first file 3 days after receiving the printer. More hours than I expected: probably north of 15 hours trying to figure out why things weren’t working. Not sure I know enough to tell someone else how to avoid spending this amount of time getting to a first print;
- Tell people to click on the object in order to access the dimmed out options in the slicer. Then tell them how to back out of a command in order to access some of the others (Escape key?);
- Tell people how to enable supports. Day 3 and I still don’t know;
- The first personal model I printed had a floating element that I did not want supported, except where it had an arm sticking out over the side of the model. I don’t see a way to turn on supports with just the stickout supported;