Hi there, can anyone give me the settings for executing print in place. Or hints to try out.
I am trying to print a cube fidged, spin.
https://www.printables.com/model/612611-spin-cube
Thanks in advance
Grz Ronald
It’s actually a trial-and-error approach, but assuming you have mastered supports, organic works better for this type of shape. You’ll want to start with X-Y contour gaps at a negative number. Here’s the parameter.
What this will do is make the outer portion of each segment smaller by 1 mm. This will allow you to control the gap between the two pieces you want to have moving.
The 1 mm value in this example is extreme, but I am using that for illustration purposes. I turned off the display of the inner and outer walls so that the inside is more visible.
One thing that is important is that at a 45-degree angle in this example, the slicer will produce no supports using the default setting. But you may have to either force supports or create an unusually large brim so that the block stays at the tipping point of 45 degrees. The challenge then will be that the nozzle, at default speeds, will likely knock over the model and it will detach from the build plate. So I recommend that once the print has started, go into the Device menu and slow it down to 50%, which will give you better odds of not knocking over the model. Again, this is trial and error.
Now, having said that, this is arguably the toughest fidget to master as a print-in-place model. If I may suggest these two models to practice with, these are the two that helped me a lot. But be warned, be prepared to waste a lot of filament.
First, I would practice on an easier model before trying the spin cube
Of all the print-in-place fidget toys, the kaleidoscope fidget is likely the easiest to master, and you can use both X-Y contour and X-Y hole to adjust it. X-Y hole makes the axles smaller.
https://www.printables.com/model/722367-fidget-kaleidocycle-fidget
Then move up to the infinity cube, which is more advanced.
https://www.printables.com/model/168935-infinity-cube
For that, if you want to save filament, start with just a two-segment cube until you get the X-Y contour not too loose and not too tight. Once you find the Goldilocks zone, then print out the entire 8-segment model.
https://www.printables.com/model/168935-infinity-cube
The reason I suggest these two first, before you waste too much filament on the spin-cube fidget, is because these lie flat, so you are only optimizing X and Y, not X, Y, and Z, which is what you’ll have to do with the spin cube, plus perhaps add supports if the model keeps falling over.