I must change the PTFE Tube on a CR10SE.
it is deformed following a filament jam
Do you know what length I have to cut the PTFE tube to?
Do you have a recommended tube reference?
Thank
I can measure when I get my spares and remove the hotend.
But I’ve been waiting for a month now…
How about getting an all metal hotend and dispense with the PTFE tubing?
It is actually all metal. The tube is just to bridge the gap between the heatsink and the extruder. It needs to flex for the pressure sensor to work.
The complete one piece is called the Unicorn nozzle. But it does not fit the CR 10 SE.
I have one one order , but have to probably ditch the pressure sensor and make it fit.
https://vip.creality.com/en/goods-detail/2185
The length of the ptfe tube in my printer is 37.5 mm, but I installed it as 38 mm when I changed it.
Be careful of making it too long. The bracket for the load cell must be able to flex upwards for the Automatic Zoffset to work.
Thanks to all,
sorry I was absent, do you know how to be sure to have contact with the heating body.
I often have leaks at this level, due to a bad cut, not straight or too short by a few tenths of a millimeter.
What is the good practice? Shouldn’t we put the 38mm PTFE tube without the heating body and then screw it from below and finish with the screw on the side to be sure of contact?
Are there upgrades for this hotend to remove this PTFE tube?
Microswiss all metal hotend will remove the PTFE, Creality may make something similar.
This solution, if I understand correctly, does not avoid the installation of the PTFE tube between the copper thermal adapter and the extruder.
Correct, it only improves the leak resistance with the integrated one piece nozzle and heat break throat.
The PTFE tube should NOT fill the space between the extruder and the heat sink completely.
There must be space for the hotend to move up for the load cell bracket to flex to do the automatic zoffset.
** The tube is just to bridge the gap **
I don’t understand what you mean by leaks in that area.
That is the cold end. The filament should be hard there.
If it is not, the heat sink is not working and you have severe heat creep.
Does the heat sink fan work?
I have done a DIY conversion to make the the Unicorn nozzle fit.
It is one step better than the Microswiss one, by having the nozzle and heat break and copper sleeve as one piece.
It still has the PTFE tube, but much shorter.
can you describe the procedure of the change?
you cut 38mm then you insert it into the compartment with or without the ceramic in place. To be sure of contact with the hot block
this solution replaces PTFE? but not compatible with CR10SE
and yes the fan turns well, I don’t understand when you say that there must be a play? the play is made by the heat sink
That filament looks molten and the tube looks deformed.
So I bet you the fan is not working.
Those 12,000 rpm unbalanced screaming banshees don’t last long.
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It’s not a drop in upgrade for the cr10 se, but it’s very easy to do the mod to make it fit.
After the mod, the tube is much shorter. I recall 11mm or something.
It won’t make your specific issue go away. So we need to get that sorted first.
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The heat sink and hotend mounts to the flexible bracket (with load cell at the bending point). Then the bracket mounts to the extruder.
When the nozzle is pushed on the bed during calibration, everything including the PTFE must be able to move up by a fraction of a mm.
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I don’t understand how it can move, everything is screwed if you look at my photo.
How do you remove the hotend?
You should remove the 2 bottom screws only. Then the PTFE should drop out with the hotend. The tube fits loose on both sides.
I recall that I used to first hold the PTFE up inside the extruder, then install the hotend. But I think that is only because the wires are just too short.
What do you mean by ceramic? The hotend heater coil or the load cell?
