After delaying for years, I finally decided to purchase my first 3D printer. After a few hours of research, I thought I had made the right decision… but unfortunately, it turned out to be the biggest purchase mistake of my life.
The Creality K2 is perfect when it works, but I seriously doubt that Creality’s engineers tested this device thoroughly before releasing it. My unit arrived with a warped (taco-shaped) heat bed, making it unusable right out of the box.
To make things worse, Creality does not keep spare parts in the countries where they sell their products, and their 14-day return policy is practically useless because shipping replacement parts from China takes over 20 days.
I also tried to ask about refund options, but no one replies to my emails. I really want to keep this product because I see its potential, but having two malfunctions in just two weeks is seriously worrying—especially for a printer at this price point.
Hall Sensor Failure (CFS)
One of the failures was with the CFS (continuous filament sensor). If anyone knows what Hall effect sensor they use, it would help a lot. I’m currently attempting a repair using a Honeywell SS349RT, but I’m not sure it’s an exact match.
Pro tip:
If your CFS chip fails, you can temporarily bypass the faulty chip by removing it. This will allow you to use the remaining 3 slots on the CFS while waiting for a replacement. Or, if you’re feeling confident , try replacing it with a compatible chip like the SS349RT. ( would be nice to get reply from crealty about which hall sensor they used)
Yeah, their bed-flatness tolerance is 3mm so yours is considered OK! That is awful, but wouldn’t be a deal-breaker, if the bed-mesh-levelling actually fully compensated for it. In my experience, compensation is some percentage too weak. We keep waiting for a firmware patch…
What I and others did is to loosen the bed surface using the four plastic thumbscrews underneath. My screws were not captive, so had to back these with an allen wrench from the top side (there are differences between printers; yours may be captive screws.) My four “manual leveling points” were all tightened 100%. Then I found some scripts to heat the bed to 75c and manually position the nozzle in the corners. (Important: bed + build surface must soak 30min for even heat distribution.) Using the manual adjusters, get the corners as flat as possible. Then re-run the bed mesh. If you still have a low spot in the center and across, remove the build plate and install a strip of Kapton tape. Reinstall build surface, re-run mesh, repeat. Some say aluminum tape works too, but I’d be concerned about the adhesive. Others have been able to get bed flatness down to tenths of a millimeter by doing this. But note the bed will still warp at higher or lower temperatures (so not ideal for say PLA and ABS.) But it will still be much better than before.
i tried all weakend to manuel level i tried like 3 difrent script, i bought alimunium tape to level but i failed to do so . how ever they shipped replacmernt. they also told the part that fails on ss i ve uploaded are
310105_Transistor/310105_MOS tube NMOS_2N7002_SOT-23_0.18A_60V
Slot-type photoelectric switch_SMD_1.6V_IF=20mA_Everlight
will defntly buy few as spare. they also sending cfs bottom bracket replacment so far all good but im sure it will malfunction whitin a year
I would suggest adding a strip of kapton tape directly onto the magnet in the left rear and right front (the darkest blue areas.) And maybe lower the right rear corner just a touch (since it is the highest point.) These will likely get the flatness to 0.25mm or better. Is it printing better now?
I will try balancing corners but unfortunately rear right is alredy at max tightness. I belive frame that holds bed are slightly bend or the mount screws for bed on sides needs calibration some how previus taco bed was giving high offset at rear right to so i may need to check it at next maintenance
