Do I need a new Hot end ?
This was a replacement from Creality because I had a clogged Nozzle,
Just today temps gone wacko … Yesterday was fine.
Had wacky bed Temps too
Checked all connecters seems fine …
Any thoughts ?
Thanks Rob
Checked all connecters seems fine …
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Um, yeppers. Slow down the builds depending on the set up arguments and then heat the nozzle temperature a bit more…
The more heat, not much, will allow for easier flow of melted filament. Slowing down the build around quick moves and traversing will allow for the flow to not clog and return errors like “Heater not heating as expected.”
That is as much as I gathered for the K1C builds I have built so far…
If you are building small items, use slow moves. If you plan on building 0.2mm flow, regular mode, testing to get the correct dialed in arguments will take time.
I built a small bolt from a .stl file with the Creality slicer and had to slow down my print severely.
The larger bolt did not have so much trouble…why?
I think the smaller, more precise build moves at high speeds takes away from precision and gets the infamous “Heater not heating as expected.”
I also noticed that the bed is at 70C. Is that right? Why are you using 70C? PETG or in an enclosed setting for ABS?
And just for reference, I have used PETG and PLA-CF with this printer. PETG prints nicely…
PLA-CF needs tweaking every so often from what I noticed due to size of the print, speed of printing and traversing, and then the hotend temperature.
Seth
P.S. I fluctuate too with my hotend. I think over a long print they show less of an issue but you can always go into settings to adjust where and at what HIGH/LOW temperatures the message appears causing the print to stop…
I just Selected the Generic PETG in the Creality Slicer 250/70
Everything was steady in the last 2 days of printing
and today I noticed the up and down on the temps…
I’ll look more on the printer or get another Hotend …(Not even 5 month old)
Thanks for your Reply
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If you have replaced any component on the hot end you may need to recalibrate the hotend by performing a PID test. this will reset the hot end to the new components.
Bill
No issue. @Rob_H , I think the other fellow, Mr. @Bill.b , is on to something too.
If you update hardware or software, upping to the tested true PID testing is necessary. Now, Creality keeps coming up with new settings for their nozzles and firmware for their boards. This is the good news.
The bad news is that when you “blindly” update hardware or firmware Over-the-Air, PID testing and settings are sometimes lost and an update to the nozzle and leveling is needed once more.
For instance, I updated firmware because my prints kept failing. I had to readjust all settings because I did not save them into a file for uploading to the setting manager.
Seth
P.S. With the new firmware, I am getting less issue with the “heater not heating as expected” error. Only when I move very quickly to the next position while retracting does the heater error return. So, I just slowed down the traversing and print speeds.
the test …PASSED
going to check under the Hood .
Maybe power supply connections
Cheers!! (After the Check up) lol
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Maybe that has been my issue…
Where did you see PID Calibration on the Gear Icon?
Seth
Thank you, sir!
off to test…
and done. Cheers!
Didn’t get a chance to print after the Calibration because an Update appeared … lol
So Can’t Really say if it fixed the problem or the update did … but looks much better now … and yes it’s HOT! Default setting “Generic PETG” even tho the PETG i’m using is recommended 200-240c but it printed fine …lol
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