A few years ago I designed an Arduino powered device that pulled the air in my storage containers through a container of silica gel. With no heat all it did actually improve the quality of my printing. It was just a little 40mm fan and an arduino-compatible temperature/humidity sensor, and a readout. The fan came on when the humidity was above 25% rH. I stopped using it and dismantled it as I hadn’t 3D printed for a while. Might see if I can find all the parts again…and most importanlty, the code…
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Also see: https://micro-dehumidifier.com/rosahl-membranes-dry-printer-filaments-dry/ Seen a few Bambu AMS converted this way, no CFS conversion yet.
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If you’re just starting with PETG, try and get Hyper PETG from Creality or PETG HF from Bambu, or any of the similar variants. They are less finnicky in general.
Dry your filament. You just got it, and its new, and you want to try it out, but it needs drying. For a big full spool, at least 12 preferably 24 hours in a dryer. Dryers are pretty cheap these days and you can usually find deals on them from Amazon and others. Eventually you’ll figure out how much time you really need to dry for, but to start out this is the one of the major causes of issues and its easily fixed with some patience.
While some people will have issues with getting it to stick, depending on the brand, it can also be too sticky. I would suggest starting with the stock presets, a clean plate, and a small print. If it has no grip, then a little hyperlock can help you out. If its too sticky, a little glue stick or hairspry can help with release.
PETG formulas can vary from brand to brand and transparent or CF PETG will also need some tweaks.
Just my 2¢.
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Hello @rdtsc ,
I just checked that out. Quite amazing piece of technology.
Never came across that idea before. I think it is something I will have to try out.
Many thanks for sharing it. 
Cheers.
K2 owner for 18 days, have printed a bunch of PETG stuff using std printer settings all good. Once I for got to reinstall the PEI plate and it printed a small object straight onto the bed without a prob.
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Can anyone answer me this questioin that I’ve been asking myself - why use PETG at all, now that I can print ABS perfectly on this printer? In the past, with my open bed-slinger, ABS would almost always curl off the bed, even at 120degrees bed temp, so I went to PETG for tough, less brittle (than PLA) jobs. However, my new K2+ now prints ABS perfectlly every time (proviided the first layer goes down OK - see other posts) so given ABS has higher temp tolerance, better outdoor durability, is stronger (so I’m told - is that true?) and is cheaper, why would I ever want to use PETG over ABS in the future?
Hello Dangerous,
For me it is because PETG is stronger than PLA for most things I print and it has less nasties in the fumes given off than ABS.
I would be very happy if PETG CF was made in a good selection of colours.
Cheers.
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I was always told PETG gives better detail but I don’t know if improved machine accuracy has overcome that difference now.
Talking of fumes…is there an activated charcoal filter fitted to the K2 plus as delivered or do you need to buy one?
There are rudimentary carbon packets in the chamber exhaust fan housings, but how effective they are is doubtful. I have my printer in my office, so with my old open bed-slinger, printing ABS was a smelly business (not to mention potentially unhealthy!) but with the k2+ I don’t notice abs at all, so they must be doing something good 
Because i use petg also on other more open printers and i dont like the abs smell . Abs i use for things like car parts and when its need to be outside for a long time.
I finally got PETG working, I had to adjust the z-offset so the extruder would stop erroring out in the first 5-10 minutes. Weird because I could print a large 20 hour print in PLA without a single complaint from the printer. And this is also CR-PETG so you’d expect it to be fairly frictionless with their own printers.
Not sure how much brand matching can help with PETG. Compared to PLA it’s nasty, sticky goop, and that explains pretty much ALL my failures with it; balling up on the nozzle. Sticking to the bed. Sticking to itself. Support sticking too much to model…etc, etc.
But, if you want anything like load bearing or performance in warmer locations, and don’t want to go to the “OMG where’s my gasmask?” ABS or Nylon options, then it’s a good option.
I think my mistake was trying it out for an application that DID need it, but not switching back on projects that didn’t. After four consecutive failed prints of a Battletech Mechwarrior (big fighty robot, for the uninitiated, and the Archer V3 from Gambody, for the afficionado) due to ridiculously hard to remove supports, and then using Bambu’s Desert Tan PLA (the single, “most easy to remove from support” material I have EVER used (I’m sure Creality have an equivalent)) I’m consigning PETG to products where durability is a MUST…not just a “nice to have”.
Talking of supports…has anyone encountered an error with Creality Slicer where you tell it to use tree supports but it slices for both trees. AND traditional grids?
Dear all, the new version of CP V6.0.4.1795 resolves the problem with Filament start G-Code and you can now put in something there especially for PETG.
I don’t use it to set Z-Offset because if I use PETG as support for PLA (or vice versa) this yould not work! If you set Z-Offset in filament profile you can use it only on prints with no filament change.
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Can I ask how you adjusted the z-offset? I get 2784 errors after the print runs a few minutes. It’s very frustrating.
Thanks
