Filament does not stick to bed… bed temp shows 50
Can you give us a little more info…? That 50 is most likely 50 Centigrade.
Filament Temp…?
Model printer?
Is this the first time this happened…?
What kind of glue if you are using any…?
What kind of bed is it…? Glass, Pei…etc…?
Bed level and Calibrated…?
Filament Temp = 185
Ender-3 Pro
Just Completed Assembly, first time trying to use
Glue? No.
Flexible Magnetic mat (came with printer) on top of metal bed
Bed Level and Calibrated - yes
Thank you for that info. I would try to use a glue stick or some of the other recommended glues for that printer. You don’t need much. I believe that would help some. Also bump up the build plate temperature depending on the glue. I set the bed temp to 60C on a K1 Max for Pla.
It might mention what kind to use in the printer manual. Some new printers even come with a glue stick… 
The glue will help your project stick better to the build plate.
I use a product called Bed Weld which is a little expensive but definitely keeps things in place…
Bed Weld
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@Mikey Any updates on this. Getting it to stick hopefully…?
I bought the Bed Weld product. Worked too good!! Damaged my project trying to remove from treated bed. Was unable to remove residue from flexible Ender3 mat and had to replace with a new one!!
I’m sorry to hear about that. I haven’t had a problem with Bed Weld. I just bend the plate a little and most of the time everything will pop off sometimes needs a little pull. Any residue with that product washes off easily with dish soap… There’s another product called JT17 Adhesive that really sticks to the point where it’s very hard to get off and I’ve ruined a couple projects using that. It doesn’t clean up well at all…
Just use ANY water-based hair spray. Nearly all are water based so that they can be washed out of hair. I have a local hairdresser supply shop that sells it in 5l bottles so I decdant it into hand spray bottles and use that. Wipes off the build plate with a damp cloth, sticks nicely but removes cleanly.
BTW the 5l bottle cost $24 (or there about) and I’ve been using it for about 7 years now and still have half a bottle. I think I went in too hard with that purchase!
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Ha… You bought enough for a print farm… 
Thanks for that info. I haven’t bought the hairspray because didn’t want to use the aerosol spray stuff…
Any brand name on that hairspray you can tell us. Maybe something we can get off Amazon. I might want to give it a try…
I’m in Melbourne, Australia. Where are you? The place I got it from was called “Professional Haircare Products”, in Hallam, it was their generic brand I believe, but the label has long since fallen off. Not sure if they still stock it though. “HairHouse Warehouse” sell the gigantic aerosol cans, but it goes everywhere when you spray it.
I’m here in the Dallas / Ft. Worth area in US. I’ll look for something similar. Yeah the aerosol get all over the place. Something in a regular spray bottle… I haven’t looked yet. Thanks for the reply… 
Oh wow, way back I spent a month in the DFW area working at a place called E-Talk. Irving I believe it was. Small world. 
I have 10 printers
2 old flashforges
3 Ender NEO’S
2 CR10-SE
3 Two Smart Pro’s
and have NEVER EVER had to use glue or other things to help my models stick, unless I have been very lucky, cant understand why you need it.
I Print super small parts for model railways, and very large 250mm dia 300mm tall things.
I print PLA most of the time so maybe thats why i get away without glue etc.
Shane
What is the build plate you get the best results from…? and
Do you use a brim on most of the smaller parts…?
I use the adhesive I guess so I won’t worry about the part coming off. Like you said I might be able to get away without using it sometimes…
My NEO’s have the supplied glass beds
CR10-SE and CR-10 smart have the flexible beds.
When my prints finish i wait around 20 mins and the print just lifts of, dont even need to lift the magnetic plate off the bed unless im in a hurry.
I do use brims a lot, never use rafts.
to clean the brims off the print i use a deburrer
it has a handle and a swivel blade, the brim peels of - the scraper is sort of like a potato peeler, takes seconds to clean up the brim
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That deburring tool is real handy…
I have a 3040 Pro and also had problems with lift and bed adhesion. I raised the bed temp to 65 deg C and the nozzle to 210 C , I also lowered the print speed to 60%. After about a 2% bed was applied and was laid down flat I was able to print normally and even go to 110%. I am using black PLA as the filiment.
Maybe this will help you too.